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  • Table Leveling

    what's a good method? I've already searched on here, but didn't find too much. Thanks
    Don't mind me, what you read is invisible.

  • #2
    Re: Table Leveling

    I put the table in spoting at about 3/8 inch off deck and compare front to back and side to side. (a wrench sliped under the table makes a good reference tool)

    To level front to back, you use the leveling rods that run from the top of the legs to the front of the machine. To level side to side, you use A. packman washers ( for the solid black table legs) or B tuen raise or lower with the threaded tube (for the old aluminum legs)

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    • #3
      Re: Table Leveling

      First make sure machine frame is at correct hieght. 18.75 to 19 inches at all four bolts.
      I use a 40" 2x4 made of oak. Set 2x4 on edge across pindeck under table supports. Lower table till it just touches 2x4 on one side or other, then either use shims to lower the high side. Then take 2x4 on edge going front to back on pindeck at 1 & 5 pinspot. Lower table till it just touches 2x4 at either front or back, then use the tie rods to level table. You want the front of table approximately 1/16" lower than the rear.
      Jim H

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      • #4
        Re: Table Leveling

        Bent--Do it the right way!! 1.) Set your machine height--18 3/4 inches front and back 2.)Lower the table to setting new pins 3.) Disconnect your spot rod 4.) Disconnect the bearing @ the deck lowering yoke (so the table is on the pin deck 5.) Adjust your table using the tie rods--left and right 6.) Flag your table at the #1--#7--#10 dead center to the pin spot 7.) Reconnect your yoke so the table sets 5/16 of a inch off the pin deck (turning the yoke CCW or CW 1/2 turns will increase or decrease a 1/16th of a inch. 8.) Reconnect the spot rod and adjust your cups setting a new set of pins with a little bit of top forward till with the pins just touching the pin deck--about 45 minutes a lane to do. Make sure your shuttles are not too low--Check for rubbing at 0 degrees mechanical.
        For Sale- Pickled Eggs--10 cents each, 2 for a quarter, I'll have a quarters worth please.

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        • #5
          Re: Table Leveling

          Originally posted by 2424pepsi:
          Bent--Do it the right way!!
          <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Am I to assume that you are saying that anyone that does not follow that exact procedure is "doing it wrong"??


          I have met many top notch mechanics over the years, and I can name about 1000 procedures that most do differently form each other. I personaly know some of the top in the country, and thier procedures for different things differ. Does this make them inferrior??

          You probably meant nothing by it, but your wording has a negitive connotation, and an air of superiority.

          JMO
          Paul

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          • #6
            Re: Table Leveling

            ...in continuing as to what Paul was saying, I know some mechanic that may have to change there procedures to accommodate there physical conditioning. I know I have to do things different now than when I was younger. ( My back don't work and my belly gets in the way!)
            Peanut

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            • #7
              Re: Table Leveling

              Originally posted by masternut:
              ( My back don't work and my belly gets in the way!)
              <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">HEY!!!!


              I resemble that remark!!...lol

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              • #8
                Re: Table Leveling

                Sorry Doug, I agree with Jim Dorson, besides, that is NOT the way Jamie taught us. The purpose of Stahl's school is to use effective shortcuts to achieve the same results. Also, you should never put undue stress on the stabilizer rods. I know you would not do that on a A-2 or you would be replacing expensive rod ends within a month or so.
                Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

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                • #9
                  Re: Table Leveling

                  Originally posted by JimDorsin:
                  </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by masternut:
                  ( My back don't work and my belly gets in the way!)
                  <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">HEY!!!!


                  I resemble that remark!!...lol
                  </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Another two candidates for the dickiedoo club... and I thought it was just me... [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
                  <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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                  • #11
                    Re: Table Leveling

                    My way is very similar to Jim H and Paul’s.

                    The only thing I didn’t see anybody mention is getting the upper rods even. I feel this is an important step. Because, if not equal to start with, you end up adjusting kitty corner when turning them equal. This makes it difficult determining where shims need to go for your cross tilt.

                    I set the table on the pin deck (in spotting) with clevis yolk removed. With J-nuts loose and upper rear bolts slightly loose (for the rod end)..... turn rods until you can easily slide the rod end back and forth on both bolts while they must stay perpendicular to the frame. Keep going back and forth until no pressure is on both bolts. Note…the front end will be much higher than the back when you do this. Tighten up both upper bolts and mark your rods with a parallel line using a scribe or wax pencil.

                    Hook up your clevis yolk then turn both rods equal number or turns (using your lines on the rods as a reference point for precision) until the front and back tilt are equal distance (along the 1-5 line) from the pindeck. I use the 5/16” gauge but anything will work. I do like Jim H method of the 2x4…will have to give it a try.

                    After that…check your cross tilt at the 4-6 line making sure the table is equal distance from the deck at this line. As mentioned, shims will need to go on the high side to bring it down. When putting in shims do one bolt at a time to keep your table from moving.

                    Also, before leveling…I prefer to flag the table first. This is not necessary for leveling (unless it is way cocked), just what I prefer.

                    Triac

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                    • #12
                      Re: Table Leveling

                      Originally posted by TheGMan143:
                      </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JimDorsin:
                      </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by masternut:
                      ( My back don't work and my belly gets in the way!)
                      <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">HEY!!!!


                      I resemble that remark!!...lol
                      </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Another two candidates for the dickiedoo club... and I thought it was just me... [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
                      </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats scary, I thought I was the only one that kno what a dickiedoo was, let alone sporting one!!

                      and...I am sorry to say, Yes. My belly stick out farther than my dickiedoo.

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                      • #13
                        Re: Table Leveling

                        Originally posted by Brunsamf:
                        Sorry Doug, I agree with Jim Dorson, besides, that is NOT the way Jamie taught us. The purpose of Stahl's school is to use effective shortcuts to achieve the same results. Also, you should never put undue stress on the stabilizer rods. I know you would not do that on a A-2 or you would be replacing expensive rod ends within a month or so.
                        <font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Now Bill---You adjusted yours at SuperBowl-Most of the tables were too high and Smitty, Terry, and I had to re-do everything that was table related--3days later so watch what you say. I've pulled and rebuilt 24 tables by myself at my center 2 years ago and don't have a single issue with offspots, miss spots, broken X-Frames or pins falling over and you know how much BOWLING we have at my center. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_nworthy.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_nworthy.gif[/img]
                        For Sale- Pickled Eggs--10 cents each, 2 for a quarter, I'll have a quarters worth please.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Re: Table Leveling

                          I did not mean to start an arguement here... I just wanted some methods. Everybody has their own that works for them so let it be at that. I'm just sorry that I was one placed into my job after one month of being nothing but a pin chaser (15 years ago), and never got the proper training. We all know that when these machines are properly adjusted up, they will almost run forever without any major problems. I consider myself lucky to be still employed in this industry. Without the help of this website, I probably wouldn't. Everything I know I have learned myself from playing around, everything I have FIXED I have learned from you all here on Bowltech. (or from jamie at stahls) Thanks a million!!! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
                          Don't mind me, what you read is invisible.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Re: Table Leveling

                            2424pepsi; You are right and I am wrong. We will now end this. This is an information forum, not a flame fest. People come here are looking for answers...not where I screwed up. In time, people here learn from whom to get the best advice. Mechanics here I believe have a "read" on you.
                            Yeah but, We've always done it that way.

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