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  • pindication problem?

    I'm having trouble with 1st and 2nd ball lights
    blowing, some are only lasting 2 weeks.

    We have ss chassis with omni board, and we are using
    12V 5W bulbs.

    The voltage getting to the 1st and 2nd ball lights
    varies between 15V and 18V.

    What could cause this voltage to be so high?

  • #2
    Re: pindication problem?

    What kind of masking untis do you have?

    Some masking have a row of resistors to adjust the voltage going to the bulb.

    All chassis do not have accurate voltage.

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    • #3
      Re: pindication problem?

      Masks are streamlane 21.

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      • #4
        Re: pindication problem?

        The voltage from the chassiscan vary widely widely on S/S chassis. I took reding accross a 24 laner and saw anything from 9.5V to over 18V output! I also did a test on bulbs running that range & when the chassis is putting out more than 13V, the bulbs life deminishes rapidly. Also some of the bulbs will get to OVER 1000 degrees F! There is an cheap easy fix for this you can try. Simply add diodes in series with the bulbs supply line. Each diode will drop the voltage by aprox. .6V, you add them in series to drop the voltage accordingly (ie 2 diodes will drop 1.2V, 3=1.8V (aprox)) If I recall the Streamlane 21 mask uses the larger bayonet base bulbs (is that right?), You can measure the current draw on the bulbs with a meter, to see the max current drawn. Radio shack sells a 50V 3A diode (p/n 276-1141) pkg. of 2 for about a buck. AMF actually added this "mod" to later masks like the Mod V. Keep in mind, since the chassis voltage varies so much, one chassis moved to another lane might have to have more or less to get the lower voltage to the bulbs. Best thing to do would be get some perf board from Radio Shack (p/n 276-150) and make up a bunch- 1 for each lane. PM me if you want, I can make up one for you to follow as a sample.

        Jon [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/usflag.jpg[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
        I've had enough of hope & chains.

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        • #5
          Re: pindication problem?

          DO NOT TOUCH THE BULBS WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. OIL FROM YOUR HANDS WILL MAKE THEM BLOW QUICKER.

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          • #6
            Re: pindication problem?

            I too have this problem. My 1st ball lights last about 1-2 months and some blow even faster. I thought about using diodes, but it would take a bunch of them to get the voltage down and as Jon mentioned, no two chassis have the same output. Mine range from 15-18+ volts.

            Then I thought about a resistor in the chassis …problem is, that it would have to be a monster ceramic to handle the load and light bulbs don’t follow ohms law for resistance when calculating needed values. Their resistance increases up to 20 times when on.

            Then I came up with the idea of a 12vdc voltage regulator installed in the chassis. There is a tracer on the motherboard that is the common for both lights. That tracer needs to be broke and the input and output go across this break. The ground is cut and the casing with the hole is screwed to the chassis. Note…the casing on the regulator is the same as ground. I have only done one so far and it works fantastic. Now I’m putting 12 volts into a 13.5vdc bulb that should increase the rated life. Its only slightly dimmer but will suffice.

            If needed….I can get a picture, but I wont be able to get it until July 3rd, as I’ll be out of town until then.

            Triac

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            • #7
              Re: pindication problem?

              thanks for the help.

              I'll give the diodes a go.

              I liked your idea too triac, i'd like to see a pic.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: pindication problem?

                I was gonna mention the voltage regulator idea, but with the large bulbs in the '21 masks, it would take a hefty one. If you are using the small W194 type bulbs (like in a car), a V.R. would be ideal. With higher current bulbs like pin_tech is using, you would have to use a V.R. with a decent heatsink - and the cost would be more than the diodes. Just a thought.... [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img]
                I've had enough of hope & chains.

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                • #9
                  Re: pindication problem?

                  Our old mechanic was using a long-life automotive lamp in place of the OEM lamps before we removed the pindication... I think it was actually rated for 15V instead of 12V. The brightness appeared the same, but they didn't blow out or melt the mask like the OEMs did. I asked him once if he was concerned about the extra load of the lamps (because they were running 3V shy of their rated voltage), but he said it wasn't a concern. We never had a problem with the original SS boards or the Omega-Teks overloading, so I'd guess he was correct.

                  Pindication was neat, but not having to maintain the pindication was even better... no checking for blown out bulbs every week, chassis ran cooler... I don't think I'd want to go back to pindication.
                  <span style="font-style: italic">Educatio est omnium efficacissima forma rebellionis</span>

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