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  • Distributor drive pulley

    So i had a front distributor drive pulley snap on me lastnight. Question is how hard of a job is it? It doesnt look all that difficul. But theres always some hidden thibgs that will go wrong that you cant predict. Lol

  • #2
    Assuming you don't have a split gear marketed to use as an emergency temp fix for this, the actual maintenance is actually pretty straightforward -- just rather annoying getting the belts back on.
    .
    Pull dust tray/pan; pop green belts off pulleys; remove bearing retainer covers (black things); lower and remove shaft.
    Removing the black distributor double pulley makes it easier to get to the bearing cover on the 7pin side - not 100% necessary, just makes the bolts more accessible.

    Installation is opposite order -- make sure green belts aren't twisted when putting them back over the pulleys.

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    • #3
      One of the belt pulleys was lookin linda strange. It looked like there was melt plastic down in the greenbelt groove. There was so much in there it was raising the belt up and making a slapping noise ont the bottom of the distributor.i dont know if it was plastic or just caked on and hardened oil and dirt or whatever. So i preceded to dig it out which was a mistake. I kn[w this. Because as i dug it out the hole just kept going. I checked all the rest of them and they all seemed fine. It was just that 1 roundbelt pulley closest to the main distributor drive. But i was gonna change the pulley out tonight.... but seems the machines didn't want that... as they gave 4 major breakdowns. 3 of which i fixed tonight,but the chain breakage will have to wait till i can order a new chain. Oh! Speaking if chains.... you wouldnt
      happen to lnow what size the table drive chains are?

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      • #4
        There are a few different table related chains.
        The main table drive on the left side of machine (goes sprocket to sprocket) is 11-601008
        The crank arm chain (if that is your series) on the right side of machine is 47-075488-004
        The chains on the table tubes (if that is your series) are 47-075486-004

        You could verify your series in the parts break down pdf from the Brunswick site if you aren't sure. The above numbers are for a 443 serial number and later.

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        • #5
          Yeah we have the 443 and later version. And its the chain that connects to the counterweight that broke away. And now the counterweight is at the bottom of that tube. I have it supported from underneath. So you think i should take that tube off of the table and get to the weight that way?

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          • #6
            No need to remove the tube. Find an old metal coat hanger and make it into a long fish hook and you can grab the link to pull it up/out. A piece of 12 gauge electrical wire used as fish hook will work as well.
            If you replacing the chain as a unit, then remove the black cap from the tube first. There is a set screw in it through the metal tube holding it in place.

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            • #7
              I tried fishing it out. It wasnt working. Tried for half hour. I ended up taking the tube off. Which was a greasy pain in the arse. And I found out why i couldbt fish it out. The link that went through the hole in the weight was sheared off in the hole. So it litterally broke at the last master link. Got it all put back together lastnight and i have to adjust the table now cuz it sits on the deck when it sets the pins. I figured i would have to do that anyway after i put everything back to factory defaults. I've been having to do that to just about every machine now because the installers left the table chains way too loose so after i go and tighten those up i have to reset the tables back to factory defaults. And most of the time I dont have to adjust them any further. Let me tell ya though. This has been a learning experience. Lol. Not really a bad one though.

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              • #8
                Update... finally was able to put the distributor pulley on. Like you said. Pretty straight forward. Just annoying. Plus.... I had to change out the bearing on the 7 pin side. The one behind the drive pulley. It took about 4 hours to get the thing off. And about a million cuss words later we finally got it. But not without tearing up the shaft. Are they supposed to be that hard to get off?? I understand they dont want movement in them. But it literally took a sledge hammer to point it off the shaft. After it was officially had to use a file to get all the Knicks scrapes and digs out of it. Which I finally did. I even tried to use a 3 jaw gear puller on it and it wouldnt budge. Usuallyid just use a press to get it off. But that shaft is too long to fit in our press. Any tricks to remove those bearings any easier than with an hammer and a vice? Anyway after all that I got it back together and it runs smoother and quieter than before. Thanks for all the input on this one. It was greatly appreciated.

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                • #9
                  I always clean the shaft removing any build up of what every. and lube the shaft with oil, a light coat. if it has any dings or dents or what ever smooth with emery cloth.if there is rust or build up at bearing i would spray with penetrating oil and let it soak before removing bearing. I have not had any that I had to use a hand sledge on.
                  Later Chief

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                  • #10
                    No secret to removal - just standard bearing pulling processes. Some have been easy others not so much. Glad it's all back together and running though.

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                    • #11
                      to remove the bearings i use a hydraulic bearing remover easy as 1,2,3 cost about $150
                      im never wrong just askme

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                      • #12
                        I'm gonna have to invest in one of those. Cuz almost all of these machines have at least 2 bad bearings on them.

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