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Bowl-Mor Control Box


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  • #16
    Re: Bowl-Mor Control Box

    Hey Bobbie, if you're ever in Halifax let me know! You can come by my place and I can show you our Bowl-Mor's.



    • #17
      Re: Bowl-Mor Control Box

      Talk to a motor control electrician who works with PLC's. I was told you could run 4 machines on 1 PLC. Left biz in '93 and never had a chance to test one. I was never a big fan of Renner's stuff do to maint. issues.


      • #18
        Re: Bowl-Mor Control Box

        The new Z-4 Candlepin Pinsetter is oil less so their are no problems like the past . The solid states are $2000 a piece to modernize old bowl-mors a-b-c-d-e- machines the new pinsetter is $14,000. Plus this is also energy friendly


        • #19
          Re: Bowl-Mor Control Box

          Welcome to Bowl Tech, Jack. Do you have any pictures of the new pinsetter?


          • #20
            Re: Bowl-Mor Control Box

            Go to / looks the same as the bowl-mor D but completely new from the frame up.


            • #21
              I need help to identify the machine that I work with to fill out my profile properly

              Can any one who has experience with ball machines to help me with the Name and model and make. I do have pictures the the machines; but need to email them to some who can tell me what to put in my profile.

              These ball machines are 50 some years old. Lane type I do not know but I do know that the ball returns and rests are Brunswick, the old controller is green (bowl mor), the pins are straight - candle pin I do believe.


              • #22
                If this looks familiar to you, you do have candlepin.


                • #23
                  He may not have been making them different deliberately. Small volume mods tend to evolve quite quickly and really get made to order for a specific venue. Rubbing numbers off chips is just tacky. What is the exact purpose of these boxes? That might be a clue to what the chips are.


                  • #24
                    A typical Bowl Mor candlepin pinsetter has 5 or 6 electric motors, 4 of which must be controlled to run at certain times. The sweep motor pushes pins and any balls into the pit and also operates the pin conveyor to load pins into the tube deck. The sweep motor is started by the mechanic's reset button, the bowler's reset button, or a relay in the scoring system. The sweep motor is stopped by a normally closed to ground switch on the sweep frame. The sweep motor will not start if the pusher motor has not run since the last time the tube motor has run to keep from setting an empty deck unless the main power has been turned off. A relay will close and the indicator on the masking unit will light and the pinsetter will wait for the pusher to run.
                    The tube motor starts when the sweep contacts a normally open to ground switch on its return, the tube deck goes down to set pins, then a normally closed to ground switch stops it. There is also a normally open to ground circuit in this switch that tells the pinlift pusher relay that the tube deck has cycled so the pusher can run as soon as the #10 pocket switch is closed to indicate there are ten pins available to push.
                    The pinlift runs most of the time, stops when either #10 switch pocket is closed, starts again after the pusher limit switch opens or when main power to the pinsetter is turned off without a pin in the tenth pocket.
                    The pusher is the most complicated because it should not run unless there are 10 pins to push, it should not run if the pinlift is running, it should not run if there are already pins pushed out on the conveyor, and needs to run before the sweep can run if there are no pins on the conveyor.
                    There is also a holding circuit that keeps the pinsetter running if it is turned off at the front desk or with the scoring and the pinsetter is waiting for pins to cycle, is in a cycle, or the cycle has finished but the pusher hasn't pushed pins out ready for the next cycle.

                    Input power is a double 20 amp circuit with neutral. There is a fuse block with 4 15 amp fuses. All motors run on 120 volts. There is a 120 volt to 24 volt transformer that is fused to ground for all control circuits. It is all AC. Any modification that uses DC power or other voltages must add a rectifier or another transformer.

                    There is a house relay in the box that uses a 24 volt transformer mounted on the curtain wall to turn all pinsetters on.

                    The biggest motor is the tube deck motor which is ½ HP. Allow up to 10 amps constant draw and more for starting surge. The sweep and turntable motors are ¼ or 1/3 HP. The pinlift motor is 1/8 or 1/6 HP. The pusher motor and the ball lift motor are 1/20 HP. Many pinsetters have the ball lift motors removed and a belt run from the turntable motor to run the ball lift. Some have the pinlift motor removed as well but this requires that the turntable and ball lift stop when the pinlift needs to stop.

                    There is a large receptacle in the box that all 120 volt motor circuits plug into with one plug and another that connects all 24 volt control circuits except the sweep limit switch. The sweep limit switch, bowlers reset button, and house relay power and switching are connected to a terminal strip that could be converted to quick connect with an 8 pin plug and receptacle.

                    There is a 1/4” speaker receptacle that is used to connect to the indicator light in the masking unit.


                    Here is a more complete explanation of what the electrical box does than I posted earlier in this thread. Each function is started by the closing of a normally open switch, kept running by a holding circuit, and stopped by the opening of a normally closed switch that interrupts the holding circuit.
                    Here are some diagrams to help understand how it is set up.


                    • #25
                      Wow, even I understood that!


                      • #26
                        Great post mr.badwrench. Very informative.


                        • #27
                          hey all i have a problem with the tubes limit switch the tubes just keep going up and down i changed the switch 3 times just to make sure the relays have been upgraded to circuit board what are possible problems?


                          • #28
                            Turn off the thermal overload switch to the tube motor or turn all of them off if you want. Then turn pinsetter on and check for 24 volts DC at the tube start switch. No voltage? The switch or the wire to it is grounded out. Now ground the tube start switch for a second. Then rotate the tube motor by power or by hand until it is on high cam and check the tube limit switch for the same 24 volts DC. This switch is normally closed so on high cam it should be open and the wire to it should show 24 volts to ground.

                            If you have Renner boxes that were all installed in the same building you should be able to swap the circuit board from one pinsetter to another to see if the problem moves with it. If they were in different places when installed they may be wired different.


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