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Bowl Mor candlepin cycle

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  • Bowl Mor candlepin cycle

    Candlepin cycle.
    The cycle of a Bowl Mor candlepin pinsetter is started by the closing of a switch, the bowlers reset button, the mechanics reset button on the pinsetter electrical box, or a relay in the automatic scoring.
    When this signal is received, the sweep motor starts the sweep and the pin conveyor moving. While the sweep is removing any pins left on the pin deck, the pin conveyor loads 10 pins into the tubes in the tube deck. While the sweep is on the return trip, a roller on the sweep frame contacts and grounds the tube start switch. The sweep continues until it touches the sweep limit switch, high on the sweep frame, opens the circuit, and stops.
    When the tube start circuit is closed by the sweep, the tube motor starts the tube deck moving down. Just before the tube deck reaches bottom, the tube latch is moved up, and the latch finger assembly moves to the rear, releasing the pins from the tubes. As the tube deck moves upward, the wedge shaped projection on the latch finger assembly contacts a block under the upper deck and moves the assembly forward until the tube latch closes. Just before tube deck reaches its maximum height, a cam opens the tube limit switch, stopping the tube motor with the tube deck up.
    The sweep pushes balls and pins into the turntable behind the pin deck. A divider board across the turntable has a notch to let balls go to the rear, but moves them to the ball exit and then to the ball lift as they move forward. Pins pass under the divider board, slide onto the pinlift plate, and roll into the pinlift.
    The pinlift moves pins up to the top of the pinsetter and over, dropping the into slots where they wait for the pusher. When the last pin drops into place, it moves the upper #10 pocket switch to the side and then drops onto the lower #10 pocket switch and the pinlift stops. The #10 pocket switches are wired in parallel so in normal operation either can send the signal, but if the pinsetter is shut off with 10 pins ready to be pushed out, the lower one will be the only one used.
    The pusher waits until it has the signal that there are 10 pins ready and until the tube limit switch has moved so it won’t put 20 pins on the pin conveyor. After the pusher has moved the pins onto the pin conveyor, it opens the pusher limit switch and stops.
    If for any reason the pusher has not delivered pins to the pin conveyor, closing the reset button circuit will cause the red X in the masking unit to light up, but the cycle will not start until pins are ready to be set.


  • #2
    DSCF1080.jpg
    The upper switch in this pic is the tube limit switch. There should be three wires going to it. The lower one was designed to prevent the pinsetter from cycling if the tube deck wasn't perfectly up. It is usually bypassed.
    DSCF1079.jpg
    The spring leaf the arrow is pointed at is the tube start switch. A roller on the sweep contacts it and grounds it when the sweep is moving back toward the bowler.

    DSCF1078.jpg
    The switch on the left is the pusher limit switch. It is normally closed to ground. The one on the right is the lower #10 pocket switch. It is normally open and closes to ground when a pin is resting on it.
    DSCF1077.jpg
    The switch above is the upper #10 pocket switch. It is normally open and closes to ground when a pin pushes it before falling on the lower #10 pocket switch.

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    • #3
      DSCF1105.jpg
      And here is the sweep limit switch. The microswitch is a replacement. The wire going nowhere just to the left of it goes to the original switch mounted to the outside of the sweep frame. If your sweep limit switches are mounted to the ten pin side sweep frame instead of the seven pin side they are a newer design and last longer so you may not need to use the microswitch to replace it.

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      • #4
        DSCF1103.jpg

        DSCF1102.jpg

        DSCF1101.jpg

        Slightly better pics than similar ones above.

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        • #5
          Thank you for the great operational writeup and pics of switch actuators. I am a technician presently in New Brunswick Canada. I am trying to help out a bowling center here that has BowlMor lanes 6 of them. 10 pin candle stick I have taken it upon myself to draw and document the electronic switch module which houses the Triac drivers and logic for the various motors. I have the schematic pretty much drawn up but need to document the wiring of the switches throughout the machine and where they are connected to the electronic module. I was wondering if you had access to or knowledge of where I can get a service manual or wiring diagram for the machine that depicts where things are wired to the module. as well as a test jig for the module? These lanes are pretty basic with no electronic scoring all the relay logic was replaced with these control modules which appear to be third party or home made. the person that designed and made these modules apparently died and all his documentation parts ect were either thrown out or lost by his widow.
          Any help would be appreciated
          Canmike

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Canmike View Post
            I have the schematic pretty much drawn up but need to document the wiring of the switches throughout the machine and where they are connected to the electronic module. I was wondering if you had access to or knowledge of where I can get a service manual or wiring diagram for the machine that depicts where things are wired to the module. as well as a test jig for the module?
            top view relays.jpg

            pilot relays.jpg

            Here's some diagrams of what the electrical system looked like before the conversion. This is late Model D with 4 pilot relays.

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