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Pit frame repair


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  • Pit frame repair

    On the upper pit frame, the centre bolt which clamps the board inside the frame is completely stripped, hence the board rattles around as I can't fully tighten it down.

    What's the best repair for this problem, do any of the parts companies sell something as a repair? or should I just take to an engineer (I don't have the tools)to drill out and tap next size thread in it.

    I would like to keep all the hex head bolts the same size (3/4 head)
    But this is not a neccessity.


  • #2
    Re: Pit frame repair

    I dont remember if it's murrey or zot who sells them. Its a piece of tube with a smaller outer diameter on one end than the other. You cut the stripped tube to the lenght of the repair kit and the smaller outer radius slides inside the tupe and butts itself nicely back to the end of the frame. Drill a hole through the tube and bolt it and your all set.
    Wait what?...What's wrong?.....Sure no problem! Give me a really big freakin hammer...I'll fix it.


    • #3
      Re: Pit frame repair

      Thanks ibengmainee, will look into it.



      • #4
        Re: Pit frame repair

        Headpin, just go to your local bolt supplier or even some belt distributors and get a "RECOIL" kit. What you get is a few springs and a tap, you re-tap the hole bigger, than add the spring, now you have the hole repaired ready for service. It has instructions in the kit.

        Off hand I think it is 5/16 unc, they come in various sizes. I did a few at Mayfield when I was there, works great and easy to do.

        always doing my best.


        • #5
          Re: Pit frame repair

          I just did one the other day. But I didn't have time to wait for kits or the money for that matter.

          Just took three nuts threaded on the the 3/4" bolt and spot welded them together. Making sure the bolt will still thread in/out easily. Then zap them in a few more spots, once cool, grind them round. I've got bits and pieces of scrap steel, you may as well. But try to find a simular dia. tube to insert the now welded nuts into; about 6", long enough to to allow the clamp to slide on. Probably not necessary, but I drilled a few holes in the tube to fill with weld and penitrate an area of the nut insert. Kinda over kill.

          I then cut the old tube off at the same distance as the new piece. This keeps the same distance as the old one close when reinstalling.

          Take the now removed piece (old stripped one) and trim it down to about 2" of usable tube. Take that piece and cut it top to bottom, giving you 2 "C" shapes. Clamp those in the vice a bit to spread them out some. Set aside.

          Now tack weld the new tube w/ nuts in place (butt joint). Once it's streight weld all the way around it. Then grind down the welds enough for the "C" pieces to fit over the new tube and the main tube pretty tight. Tack those into place. Then weld them up! Keep and eye on you heat or it will crack after a small amout of use from being to hot.

          Grind down all the high spots and paint! Should be good for a long time!

          Sounds like a lot of work, but it's not real tough. About and hour or so.

          This is simular to how we fix broken drive shafts out 4wheeling.

          But If you don't weld, the coils should work OK...



          • #6
            Re: Pit frame repair

            Thanks for the advice guys, might try the recoil thing sounds simple.

            Frank how's the new business going? you must be close to retiring by now.........I hope all is going well for you. Do you miss working at the bowl?



            • #7
              Re: Pit frame repair

              I use the recoil trick on my pits and they work great,easy enough to use.
     does one get a bolt that won't come out of a frame,act's like it's cross threaded,i can turn it a weeeee bit and it stops(3 bolt pit).I'd like to pull that pit out but until the bolt is free the pit can't come out.


              • #8
                Re: Pit frame repair

                have you looked into getting quick releases.Then you don't have to worry about it.



                • #9
                  Re: Pit frame repair

                  If you are going to put all that work into it or take it to an engineer. The quick release conversion is the way to go!
                  They aren't really all that expensive and they are worth every penny of it!



                  • #10
                    Re: Pit frame repair

                    pull shaker frame. drillout. hacksaw cut center of shaft . tap in one 3/4 coupling nut. weld,(grind) paint and reinstall. i'll be rebuilding 2 sets next week. due to inlongated warn out bracket holes.


                    • #11
                      Re: Pit frame repair

                      FWIW, I'd spend the time and effort to fix a 3 bolt before I'd convert it to quick release. I just had too many problems getting the quick release frames to hold boards properly.

                      The speed advantage, well, that's a joke. If you're going into a pit, odds are you're gonna be in there for at least a half hour, most times more. So, getting in there two minutes quicker isn't going to make a difference.


                      You won't like the answer, but taking a sawzall to the pitboard (across width of lane) is about the only way I know of, so I guess you'll be waiting for the jackhammer noise to do that one [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]


                      • #12
                        Re: Pit frame repair

                        Worked on A2's with quick release frames and didn't really like them......some of those mods that brunswick introduced IMO aren't worth it........besides I want to keep everything as identical as possible.
                        Pet hate is having different hardware all over the machines, when I go to do a job I like to know what tools are required regardless which machine I'm working on.

                        Thanks for all the replies.



                        • #13
                          Re: Pit frame repair

                          While we are on this subject, I have a question. We have a Top frame that the mounting hole for the jogger link is worn about double its size ( I call this area the " ears" of the frame). We have an idea to weld some flat stock on the outside and just use a longer bolt through the jogger link, do you think this will work? We hvan't seen a repair kit for this and I am sure that we are not the only ones that have had this problem, let us know what you think? Hate to throw away a good frame just for this.
                          Jay R. Dennis
                          Asst.Center Mechanic
                          Lucky Strike Bowling Center
                          Tucson Az


                          • #14
                            Re: Pit frame repair

                            Originally posted by Jaymantucson:
                            While we are on this subject, I have a question. We have a Top frame that the mounting hole for the jogger link is worn about double its size ( I call this area the " ears" of the frame). We have an idea to weld some flat stock on the outside and just use a longer bolt through the jogger link, do you think this will work? We hvan't seen a repair kit for this and I am sure that we are not the only ones that have had this problem, let us know what you think? Hate to throw away a good frame just for this.
                            <font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I Just used a Thick-large washer, put it all together and tight, then tack weld the washer. I also welded the nut on the back in a few spaces. Take it apart and then weld all around the washer.
                            Seems to be good so far.

                            Now some back ground on my fixes. These were both issues as well as some others on the same shaker. The guys before me actualy removed the center post and angle braces. I'm guessing they ran it for a long time like that.

                            Tell I got a here, and only then it decides to self destruct. I found the center post laying around and fabbed it back in. Also had issues with hairline fractures all over. So they were backed with a plate and welded up. In the Jogger mounting area I reinforced it with a a small piece of angle iorn to prevent stress cracks right there as well as the washer bit. This all added a little more weight to the system, but I don't see it effecting the rubber mounts, and wearing out prematurly.



                            • #15
                              Re: Pit frame repair

                              i have 32 lanes of quick release, i personally love them. if they pop loose, take a flat screwdriver and bend the handle under the pit board. and if you loose a tool or part under the pit(as i often do)it doesnt take half an hour to get to it. ive had a couple of side levers break, but that is usually due to the pit board being loose in the clamps, put the rubber cushions on the upper frame, no problems, and even replacing a busted clamp is easier than a frozen, broken, or stripped out bolt. provided that u have the right punches of course...
                              that pit isnt loud, its running with authority!


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