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  • Transformer Hum

    Ok guys I had a transformer smoke out on us so I replaced it. New one hums and doesn't kick on the msr. Any ideas?

  • #2
    You may also have a bad Rectifier, Cycle Solenoid or Light Ballast. Depends if they are 120V or 240V. If 120V, they are usually the cause for the blown transformer.
    Everything has to be Somewhere !!


    • #3
      I have already replace the rectififier and do not have the light plugged in


      • #4
        The hum is most likely caused by the alternating current through the iron core. It may be just a poorly constructed transformer. I've had a few over the years that "hum" louder than most but if you listen very carefully, you can probably hear a little of the 60 cycle hum with all of them. I believe it actually is heard at 120 Hz. Teach it to sing a song you like instead of just humming.... sorry LOL. You may also try to isolate some of the vibration by rubber mounting it if possible.
        Everything has to be Somewhere !!


        • #5
          Sounds like you have more going on then just humming. If your msr isn't kicking in then you may not be getting voltage on the secondary. The first thing that comes to mind is a mis-wired primary. The two primary coils need to be wired in proper order or the magnetic fields will cancel each other out and cause a hum and no voltage will be induced into the secondary causing the msr not to trigger.

          Start by measuring your voltages on the secondary. If you aren't getting any voltage then you may have a bad transformer or the primary is wired incorrectly.

          If you have the primary wired incorrectly, it will still look like it's ok and it won't blow the fuse because you still have the same load across the windings. However, the magnetic fields need to go in the same direction which is what you get when H2 and H3 are tied together. If you connect H4 to H2 or similarly H1 to H3 then the magnetic fields will be going the opposite direction and cause them to cancel each other out.

          May not be the problem but check your secondary voltages and get back to us. If the voltages on the secondary are ok then the primary is likely wired correctly and we'll have to trace a different route.

          Edit: Also check your transformer to make sure it is in fact a 60 Hz transformer and that someone didn't accidentally send you a 50 Hz unit. It should be stamped on the transformer.


          • #6
            So I got the humming to stop but it keeps popping the 3 amp resetable fuse now... Still not kicking on the msr


            • #7
              Do you have ball accelerators, power ball lifts, etc.

              Which side of the original transformer burned out. You can use an ohm meter to test the coils to see where the failure is.

              Disconnect the msr from the rest of the machine (one wire is enough). Measure the resistance of the coil. For the original relay you should get about 24 ohms.


              • #8
                mybad ExM, totally missed his no "msr" pulling in. Totally agree with your post #5. But now the Secondary side has problems ?? He could start by disconnecting all the low volt relays from the box by removing the Amphenol Connectors After he determines if the MSR Coil is good or not shorted. Look for cut wires everywhere. The secondary side is a totally isolated system. There should be NO Continuity from Terminals 4, 6 & 9, the primary transformer connections, to the frame of the machine. For that matter, there should be No Continuity from any of the T2 terminals to the frame. All this testing should be done "Cold". Main breaker off and power plug disconnected. What serial # are your machines and Primary Voltage Rb ? On the other machines, do you have a 3 or 4 wire Secondary Side?
                Everything has to be Somewhere !!


                • #9
                  Ok so i got aggitated and pulled the whole assembly off and rebuilt it including the channel with all the jam switches and the toggles... Everything powered up and ran great for awhile now 3 hrs into using it, it trips the 3 amp fuse... Reset it no problems. I'm guessing the ball accelerator and or power lift demanding to much amperage. Do you concur?


                  • #10
                    Could be the reset-able fuse is weak. The cheaper ones have a tendency to wear out. If you have the ability to measure AC amps with your multi meter, than hook it in line with the fuse and measure the actual amperage draw of the circuit. The relays should only draw around 80 to 100 ma each so all of them should draw less than an amp. If you are drawing over 3 amps then start disconnecting relays until you find the culprit.


                    • #11
                      Correction on my last post. I was speaking from memory and well I guess the ole grey memory aint what she use to be. I measured one of the original msr and got a current of 335 mA. But still if you had the msr, accelerator and ball lift you would still be under an amp for the 3 relays.


                      • #12
                        Will check tomorrow with the amp meter.


                        • #13
                          So its only pulling between .34 and .37 amps so I replaced the resettable fuse and we will go from there. I will chalk this up to the mechanic before me just making things work instead of fixing it the right way... I will be rebuilding all 36 over time until I have no more rats nest. Thanks for the info guys.


                          • #14
                            You mentioned in your other post that it ran for 3 hours before it blew the fuse. Based on your current reading I would feel comfortable that it probably isn't one of the relays. If the new fuse trips after some time running, then I would look for a short between wires that normally isn't present but on occasion something happens to bring the wires together causing a dead short and blowing the fuse. It would most likely be wires running to a relay rather than wires running to a switch. Since a switch is a short anyhow, shorting wires running to the switch would just simulate the switch being activated and not a short to the system so that's why I would look at wires running to relays. Keep us updated and good luck.


                            • #15
                              Ring for a qualified a electrician to trouble shoot.


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