4:1 Timing off..

[CalderRogers]

*sigh* Hello friends..

I had a 4:1 go bad and I've never seen or done one before. Trying to search the depths of the forums, YouTube videos, it didn't seem too bad.

I'd marked a line on the crank lining up the crank rod (you can see the line in the picture, which I thought was lined up when I put it back in, that very obviously isn't anymore) to make sure I was going to be in time when I put it all back in. I even C-clamped a brace to the scissor cam to negate any shift in the deck or gearbox.. everything was looking good when I was getting it back together, crank rod was lined up where it came out. I got to putting the clutch back together, and I think that might be where I went wrong...? I noticed the arm had lowered just a bit when I was threading the input shaft in. I didn't think much of it, because I figured the clutch was engaged and it was shifting everything else. Well after I got the start/stop linkage back on, going for the gearbox clutch adjustments... I can't adjust it enough to raise that arm back to normal. Unless I'm doing it wrong, which is possible because those adjustments confuse the hell out of me sometimes. I slowly walked the machine back to 0 degrees, but the 4:1 is not at "0" (same horizontal plane), it's still slightly lowered. I've tried the adjusting screw at the bottom of the gearbox, and even pulling the clutch and putting it back... No luck.

I set the deck back to 270 (I heard it was easier at 270?) the gearbox dial with the degrees on it (I'm not sure the technical name) is just a hair shy of 270. Maybe 265 or 260?

If I have to take everything apart again (which I'm fully prepared to do, and not mad about it), what are some steps I can take to ensure I'm back to normal time?
IMG_2413.jpg

[mr.badwrench]

I made the same mistake about a year ago. It wasn't the first 4:1 I did, but it was the first I didn't get timed the first time. There are timing marks on the gears that are only visible at zero through a hole in the 10 pin side of the gearbox. You'll need an allen wrench to remove the plug and a small mirror to see inside. You can rotate the clutch by hand to see how far off you are. I suspect just one tooth by the picture. Get two 5/16"-18 X 3" bolts and cut the heads off. Replace a bolt on each side holding the 4:1 in with the headless bolts. Remove the other stuff holding the 4:1 in and pull it out enough to move it. If the gasket looks good you don't need to pull it the rest of the way out.

Pulling a 4:1 at 270 setting pins is good because the weight of the deck should help hold the gears in place. After you put it back together you can run it to zero and check the timing marks without filling it with oil because things should be oily enough.

[jim_long]

Here's the gearbox manual, Brunswick doesn't seem to support the gearbox anymore. They remove this manual from their document library for some reason.

https://www.jayhawkbowling.com/Bruns...box_Manual.pdf

[mickeygm]

Whenever I would do any :Gearbox Assembly" replacement, I would "Paint" the gears to make it easier to see and verify the correct timing through the small plug. I used Yellow on the single marked gear here only for example. I usually use Red and White. I agree with Mr.B. It is probably a tooth off. Use his method to re-time it.

Gearbox Timing Col.jpg

ALL Files Scanned with MALWAREBYTES PREMIUM Version 4.5.17.221 ?

[Mr. Blister]

I am one of the lucky few who has an original paper copy (green book).

[CalderRogers]

I apologize for the false alarm and misconstrued judgement of the timing. I'll admit, this was my first gearbox clutch I'd ever done. After a little further inspection, I realized that since the gearbox was stopping before 0, 270 etc. that when I walked it TO 0, the crank was horizontal and seemingly in time.. Okay, so that must mean it's the GB Clutch? Come to find out, the adjusting screw on the bottom was bent (just slightly) and that seemed to be giving me the troubles with that adjustment. Adjustment 7 and 8 seemed to be annoyingly difficult because of this bent screw. But eventually, I backed the whole screw out, started fresh and now everything is where it needs to be.

I will be downloading that manual though (thank you jim), lucky son of a gun Mr. Blister has a hard copy...
Badwrench and mickey I appreciate the tips, I will definitely know where to look if I ever have the unfortunate pleasure of doing another 4:1.

[Mr. Blister]

Here's your "Virtual Learning" session for the week Calder LOL!!!

This manual was handed down to me when I was about 2 years into my experience as a mechanic (sometime in 2007 or 2008 if I remember correctly) by a good freind & former head mechanic. I don't know when he himself obtained it (he started as a mechanic in 1976 & to my knowledge this manual was being published as of 1963). Look at all the yellowed pages & brittle binding. The thing is so stiff by now & is coming apart! These might be out of order & is probably missing photos of some of the pages since I did this in a hurry, & all the pages fell out when I opened it up to take these photos.

Here's the step-by-step in the 4:1 chapter:

IMG_20230831_182136634.jpg IMG_20230831_182300683.jpg IMG_20230831_182312228.jpg IMG_20230831_182319647.jpg IMG_20230831_182332894.jpg IMG_20230831_182349766.jpg IMG_20230831_182357625.jpg IMG_20230831_182417119.jpg IMG_20230831_182503440.jpg IMG_20230831_182519939.jpg IMG_20230831_182529987.jpg

[Mr. Blister]

"...do you swear on an upside-down backward Chinese brail Bible with half the pages missing!!!?"

-George Carlin

[jim_long]

"...do you swear on an upside-down backward Chinese brail Bible with half the pages missing!!!?"

-George Carlin

Only if it's a tooth off!