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  • GearBox Clutch

    I have a A-2 gearbox clutch that is in time on one cycle and way out of time on the next cycle. This repeats over and over. Does not cause me any real problems but something is not right. Any Thoughts.
    j.c. I would rather be dead right, Than dead wrong.

  • #2
    Remove the cone and pulley clean all surfaces including main hub, with alcohol, reinstall and adjust. Then post results.
    rfm

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    • #3
      I should have been clearer. After i read my post i should have said out of time on first cycle in time on 2nd cycle. If i adjust it for correct timming for first cycle, Pinsetter will pick up pins set them down and than continue without stopping sweep and set new rack than stop.
      j.c. I would rather be dead right, Than dead wrong.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Roscoe View Post
        Remove the cone and pulley clean all surfaces including main hub, with alcohol, reinstall and adjust. Then post results.
        wat Roscoe sed

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        • #5
          Are you seeing backlash in the worm shaft as the pinsetter cycles? A slight in and our movement in the shaft?
          Nick

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          • #6
            A worn cone pin can souse that

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            • #7
              There will be a slight difference in stopping points, due to the weight of the pins in the deck. If the deck is empty, the clutch will coast a little more than if the deck was full of pins. This is a normal occurrence in a properly adjusted clutch.

              With that being said, there are several things that will cause the issue of not stopping in the same place twice. Worm shaft bearings can slip in and out of the housing if the shims are missing, worn or wrong; or if the bearing retainer isn't properly seated. A worn clutch drive disc, or worn facings on the clutch drive; worn or unmatched clutch shoes; or grease or oil on the assembly (as others have mentioned). There's lots of stuff to look at. Let us know what you find.

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              • #8
                Ok. I disassembled the entire clutch. I did clean all facings. Upon inspection i see the spline of the worm shaft is in very poor condition, so will replace tommorrow. After adjusting i would say the difference is better. What i notice is if i get the clutch set just a little bit too high i will not stop. I must adjust a little low . Also in watching the clutch latch lever there is a bounce as if the latch falls off a ridge. The actual difference is Rake shaft splits the washer on first cycle at the top of the washer on the second cycle. Everything works but on occasion the pins don't drop until the cycle starts.
                j.c. I would rather be dead right, Than dead wrong.

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                • #9
                  Your issue is basically normal. The function of the deck causes the motor to slow down a bit as it picks it up. The motor will slow down a bit more on different cycles. To see this even better...cycle the pinsetter through an OOR cycle. This is when the motor has the easiest time as it does not pick up the deck from 270 to 360. This allows the motor to stay closer to its nameplate RPM's which means the clutch will "coast" a little farther than on all of the other cycles. This is when you will see the rake crank rod at its highest. Give it a try and see what happens.

                  As far as the turret not dropping pins until the pinsetter cycles, this is because the gear box is stopping to soon in relationship to the position of the moving deck scissor cam. The profile of the cam is used to push the moving deck cam follower forward as the gear box approaches 0 degrees. If the cam follower does not reach the high dwell of the cam right at 0 degrees and the clutch actually disengages right at the "book adjustment"...it will not drop the pins. It must wait for the cam follower to get to the high dwell of the cam before the pins will release. This can be caused by a multitude of different things but one of the most common reasons is wear at that point where the cam follower should find the high dwell. Here is a picture of a worn cam.



                  You can adjust the clutch to disengage a bit higher to allow the cam follower to reach the high dwell...but you seem to be having some issues with recycling if you do. If you can solve that issue...you should be able to adjust it to allow the cam follower to reach the high dwell. You can also change the 1:1 if the cam is really worn.
                  TSM & TSM Training Development
                  Main Event Entertainment
                  480-620-6758 for help or information

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                  • #10
                    I am now replacing the worm shaft. My question is what is the purpose of the shim that is called for. My serial on the gearbox is 10240. o-ring than sleeve than rubber gasket than shim? .005. Are there suppose to be any lockwashers on the bolts for the retaining ring? There were none there and i don't see any shown in the manual.
                    j.c. I would rather be dead right, Than dead wrong.

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                    • #11
                      I dont have my book so someone check but I dont think that ser.# uses the rubber gasket. If so that will cause the problem you are having. Also you dont use both shim and gasket together
                      formerly dunsel
                      ITS NOT HOW MUCH YOU KNOW ITS HOW MUCH YOU CARE!!!!!

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                      • #12
                        The rubber gasket is for serial no.s 21883 and up, so you will use only the shims. there is a .005 and a .010. You should only use one or the other.
                        Jerry
                        (Psalm 37:29) The righteous themselves will possess the earth, And they will reside forever upon it.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Popeye View Post
                          The rubber gasket is for serial no.s 21883 and up, so you will use only the shims. there is a .005 and a .010. You should only use one or the other.
                          Jerry
                          Actually you should use as many of one or the other or a combination of both until the bearing surface is flush with the shims.
                          Nick

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                          • #14
                            Thanks. I was just thinking about this and I was going to ammend my post to say I really didn't know how many to use but you beat me to it!
                            (Psalm 37:29) The righteous themselves will possess the earth, And they will reside forever upon it.

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                            • #15
                              That is what i thought but wanted to be sure. In fact what you are doing is making sure the bearing cannot move in and out. After replacing the input shaft my timing is now very close on both cycles. So at this point it seems may issues are solved. One last question on this topic. How much play in and out should there be on the cone.
                              j.c. I would rather be dead right, Than dead wrong.

                              Comment

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