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    This just a question for consideration ??

    anybody out there ever consider deglazing your ball wheels this just

  • #2
    I use to use my 10,000rpm grinder with a high speed sanding disk on it. Just turn on the machine and hit the ball wheel with the disk while it spins the ball wheel. Works good on spots where you are going to glue up kickers.


    • #3
      I have with one of these sanding disk kits for drills. Usually prep the ball wheel for kickers with this....If there is not much good kicker left on the wheel, I scrape the remains off and run the disk against the wheel while it is running... If there is still good kicker on the wheel, I just do the spots I want to prep for more tape without running the ball wheel. I use fine grit sanding discs



      • #4
        My preference is that the areas without traction material should be as shiny and slippery as possible. Ideally I only want the ball to start being moved once the traction material comes around. It might also limit the chance of pins being carried up with the ball.
        Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
        Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
        Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
        Kegel C.A.T.S


        • #5
          Remember, the ball wheels are not glazed. They are Nickel Plated. Some think they are stainless steel... common error.
          Roughing up this nickel plating can actually cause damage to the ball whether spinning or yoyo-ing. Think of the scratches to a ball caught in the ball wheel when a pin gets caught in front of it if the wheel was roughed up.
          I agree with Kanga, shiny wheel with kickers (if needed). (I don't need kickers... LOL )
          "Efficiency is, doing better what is already being done!"
          Pinsetter Technical Services 214-505-7663


          • #6
            Just an opinion hear [ A nickel plated ] ball wheel after 40 some years in use me
            I cant see how much of the plating can be left to be of any use
            not suggesting to tack a grinder to wheel just 100 grit emery cloth to deglaze the wheel

            I personally have used 100 grit emery cloth has worked wonders for years another benefit when you glue kickers on they stay


            • #7
              I have tried it on a few lanes with questionable success at best. I prefer kickers and a shiny ball wheel.

              Currently experimenting with a kicker all the way around the ball wheel and slowed down to 66% of original speed. So far so good. Did another lane the other day but am having issues with that machine.

              Lonnie...tried your method and did not have as much luck as I would have liked. No doubt I did something wrong.
              TSM & TSM Training Development
              Main Event Entertainment
              480-620-6758 for help or information


              • #8
                Steve I've been running a kicker around the ball wheel for a few months now. I did 1 A machine and 1 A-2. one thing I'm noticing on the A-2 is it DEFINITELY likes to carry pins up to the ball track. I decided to remove the lift rod clamp and problem has seemed to go away (so far). One thing that I am really excited about doing this is I don't think the kickers will wear out so fast, because you don't have a leading edge constantly hitting the ball.


                • #9
                  one thing I did last year with a scrap peice of vinyl stair corner edging was cut out a 4" long peice tht I glued down to the leading edge of a few of the fresh kickers I put on....It drastically improved the lifespan of them because it stops the leading egde from getting eatten away over time. Kinda like the PPP posi-guard in that it proctects the kicker. I have tried those and they came off within a year.....The vinyl glued down with contact cement has stayed on for over a year and a half now. By cutting them into 4" long peices there is more surface to glue them down with....the pozi guards are only maybe 1.5" long so not as much sufrace to attach them to the wheel with


                  • #10
                    we glue carpet on our ball wheels. it has its advantages and disadvantages. if the carpet comes off it ends up in the pit conveyor pulleys it gets into the turrets it causes problems. but. we rarely have spinning ball problems. my preference would be a shinny ball wheel with a couple of kickers. they seem to work good


                    • #11
                      Here's the post I made under "Flex Seal."

                      It's great to experiment with different products; however, I'm sort of "old school," meaning the tried and true method. And, remember too, that these machines were developed when the lightest ball was 10 pounds, while the heaviest was 16 pounds; and the balls were made of a rubberized composition.

                      Lanes and lane oils were different back then. High scores were difficult to come by. Returning the ball to the bowler was relatively easy. Today, everything is based on speed and efficiency. One of the ideas was to put strips of carpet on the ball wheels. This was OK when the carpet was new; however, get a few games on it, and the carpet started to shred. Carpet strands would wrap around guide rollers, causing them to burn out bearings, and virtually destroy everything in its path.

                      The best idea (so far) is a rubberized cork material (automotive gasket material) found at most automotive supply stores. This is either peel and stick type, or it can be glued on with contact cement. It's versatile and long wearing; and does a great job of getting the ball back to the bowler. But, and remember too, that there's going to be a ball that refuses to return no matter what you do.

                      With that being said, make certain that everything associated with getting the ball out of the pit and back to the bowler is as clean and well adjusted as it can be. Make certain that the lift rods put the ball wheel dead center; and the lift rods are as straight as possible without visible distortions. Make certain that the clapper blocks and spring rods are properly adjusted. Make certain that the ball wheel is sitting on the lower guide rollers equally; and the upper guide rollers keep the ball wheel centered, and it doesn't wobble. Make certain that SBEs (if used) are properly adjusted, and don't kick the ball out of the pick up area, of force the ball into the lift rods at an angle. Once all of that has been accomplished, add kicker material.

                      If I didn't have a ball exit the pit and enter the accelerators within 2 to 3 seconds, I had a problem; and would back track to find the cause of the delay. I have also learned that helper springs cause as many problems as they cure. Once you learn the "secrets" of good machine operations, everything else comes easy.


                      • #12
                        Good post Tom! I like the cork also. I buy the self adhesive cork rolls from EBN and I also use the self adhesive urethane from techline. Each ball wheel gets two strips equally spaced a total of 4 feet each. Each strip consists of 3 feet of the cork with 1 foot of urethane at each leading edge. The urethane helps with the first impact and the cork is the best I have found for traction. This setup lasts for an average of 1 1/2 years. Please remember though that I also slowed down my ball wheels.
                        (Psalm 37:29) The righteous themselves will possess the earth, And they will reside forever upon it.


                        • #13
                          cut at 60 degree all used carpet off pit boards
                          ===\ BALL WHEEL --

                          I cut my leading edge as so in the event a ball starts to spin kicker may help kick ball back into pit
                          allowing ball to get a new start going up the lift-rods

                          ben working for me for years [ just becouse it works for me it may not work for you ]
                          All We can do is GET THE BALL OUT OF THE PIT AND BACK TO THE BOWLER

                          Last edited by wepauls; 02-03-2012, 11:31 AM.


                          • #14
                            Let me stir the pot a little more... what if you back the oil on your lanes toward the foul line? We always try to put more and more oil on the lanes to control the crankers, when in fact, they should be adjusting to what we put on the lane. I run a 39' length pattern with real heavy 10 to 10 and I hardly ever have any ball calls. Maybe 2 per night, granted, I only have 8 lanes, but back in the real world I did the same thing and ball calls went down when I moved the pattern from 41 to 40.. then 39... the bowlers adjusted by polishing their bowling balls and of course there were the detractors, but overall we ended up with plenty of honor scores thru the 2 seasons that I worked there.


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by amechwannabe View Post
                              ... what if you back the oil on your lanes toward the foul line?
                              Basically that's what the lane machine is suposed to do, if it's properly adjusted. Let's say that you run a 40 foot pattern. Oil is applied from the foul line to a little past the arrows (20 - 25 feet); then the machine buffs to 40 feet. Oil is usually applied in the high track area of the lane, usually 10 board to 10 board; then "tapers" out to the edges. This produces a pattern that everyone can shoot, and score reasonably well.

                              With the newest lane machines, this pattern may be possible by adjusting the spray pattern, pad pressure, or distance the machine travels; depending on the type of lane machine you have. If your machine has a cleaning function, the remainder of the lane (from buffer cut-off to tail plank) is cleaned of oil and dried. This puts your "break point" at 40 feet, which gives the ball time to react.

                              A beginning to low average bowler will not notice where the break point is located, nor will they care. The medium average bowler will be able to maintain their average, with the possibility of getting a good score or two. And it wil stroke the egos of the high average bowlers.

                              Sport leagues will utilize more or less oil, depending on the league's requirements. A more difficult pattern puts more oil further down the lane (30 - 35 feet), with the buffing down to 50 - 52 feet; and the rest of the lane is cleaned and dried. And more oil is applied further out to the sides (5 board to 5 board). This type of pattern makes the better to high average bowler utilize their skills.

                              Then, there's the problem of "oil travel." Oil travel was usually unheard of in the early days on wood lanes; however, with the new synthetic lane surfaces, it rears its ugly head. This happens when the newly surfaced "high performance" balls can actually break down the pattern. The ball will actually pick up the oil and deposit it further down the lane; and it will create a track as the ball pushes the oil out to the sides. This creates a dryer path in the center of the lane, with more oil to the outside edges. It's sort of a reverse block. As the game wears on, the pattern becomes more difficult to shoot.

                              When setting up the lanes, you also have to take into consideration the evaporation rate of the oil. Heat, humidity and the evaporation ratio plays an important part. Most, if not all, of the oils contain solids. To transport the solids, oil manufacturers put a chemical (such as alcohol) in the mixture. The oil evaporates leaving the solids in place. (On one material data sheet supplied with the oil, alcohol was 2% of the mixture; with the other 98% being other chemicals, such as a preservative and the solids themselves.) And, contrary to other beliefs, lane oils do evaporate. Some as slow, or slower, as/than ether.

                              With us mechanics, we have to adjust our oil patterns to keep the pin decks as dry as possible. A dry pin deck will keep scores high, with a low amount of out of ranges, if any. A good and properly adjusted lane machine and constant observation will make certain that the pin decks remain as dry as possible. An OOR is considered a stop, and we want to keep our stops as low as possible.

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