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  • New carpet on pit board

    How do you guys go about replacing the carpet on a pit board? Using contact cement. Best place to start, and how much at a time. It appears it will need to be trimmed when dry. Thanks.

  • #2
    Once when you remove the old carpet and as much of the old glue as you can, I apply Weldwood contact cement to the board first and let it dry. Re-apply it again and let that dry. Once when both layers have dried, I put the carpet on, and clamp it in the middle so I can fold it in half. Apply cement twice to each half doing one half at a time. Once the first half is dry, I flip it over then using a board, I smooth it out to remove any air bubbles. Do this to the other side.

    I would to the rubber sections last. 2 coats on the rubber, cut carpet to create fold for the rear and front, fold carpet onto rubber. I use a hammer to make a tight fold. Trim off excess and you are done.

    I have done these in less than an hour, but this is not a flat rate job...LOL
    My father told me to never get old...I should have listened!

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    • #3
      I like the idea of folding the carpet.. same as Phil, we use Weldwood, only one heavy coat on the board, then a heavy coat on the rug. You can use a trowel to spread the glue. Do this outside because the glue is pretty potent... we use a pin to roll out the bubbles.. then stack boxes of pins on top of the carpet to get a good press between the carpet and board.. I have had some carpets that only come off with a hammer and chisel... but that is for pinchasers..

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      • #4
        For me, it's nearly an all day job. Removing all, and I mean, ALL of the old glue is the most time consuming.

        I lay the ready board face down on the back of the carpet, mark out the sides and front edge so I can wrap the carpet flush with the bottom of the board, along the long rubber edge. I apply an even coat of contact cement on both surfaces with a small paint roller, allow them to dry until tacky then stand the front edge of the board on the edge of the carpet using my markings as guides. Slowly lay the board face down on the carpet before continuing to flip it over on its back edge, working the carpet flat against the board as I go.

        The only edge I trim is the back, but only enough to stop it from going under the board. The sides, and angled portions at the back are folded and glued to the back of the board. Lastly I use silicone on ALL of the carpet edges to limit the likelihood of the carpet from lifting of fraying.





        Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
        Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
        Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
        Kegel C.A.T.S

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        • #5
          If you live in a worm to hot region i just wet carpet and let set in the sun
          The hot sun will help heat up old glue for easer carpet removal use a hot air gun to soften glue to remove
          About 2 hrs total time

          Installing carpets as Kanga Du's minus all the clamps
          I used a spar upper pit frame secure carpet to clean bord

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          • #6
            I don't have any personal experience with this method yet, but...

            A mechanic at another house showed me how he preps a board and I was amazed at how quick he can get one ready. He uses this oscillating tool to remove the carpet/glue and it looked virtually effortless. I have purchased the tool and am ready to try it out, but that's Summertime busy work for us here so it'll be another month or so before I actually do it.
            ......

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            • #7
              Laquer thinner in a spray bottle helps remove stubborn contact cement. mist it a few times and it comes off effortlessly
              Nick

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              • #8
                Kanga did over kill the clamps but he is working on a fiberglass shaker where most of the ones you will be working on are wood and a bit heavier. How Jack Nelson has done is he uses that Contact cement glue only half the board which he starts on the opposite side of the triangle plates first.
                Applies Glue on carpet and board and presses the two together the pulls apart and lets sit for about 15 to 20 minutes
                Comes back to press it down and roll it smooth and uses old wood board from the lanes and clamps against the carpet to hold it in place to let it dry
                (rolls carpet around to the underside of board b4 you clamp it and you will have a little bit of glue on the underside to keep the carpet there.)
                Does other half same way and has glue on rubber piece on back to hold in place then will sit it in a up-right position to keep pressure on one side along with keeping the clamps on over night.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Kanga View Post





                  Hey Kanga would you happen to have a clamp that i can borrow? lol
                  Nick

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bwhite757 View Post
                    I don't have any personal experience with this method yet, but...

                    A mechanic at another house showed me how he preps a board and I was amazed at how quick he can get one ready. He uses this oscillating tool to remove the carpet/glue and it looked virtually effortless. I have purchased the tool and am ready to try it out, but that's Summertime busy work for us here so it'll be another month or so before I actually do it.
                    At some stage I'd like to give one of those a go. I've been using paint stripper but you've got to be careful not to leave it in there for too long ore it starts to attack the fiberglass.
                    Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
                    Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
                    Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
                    Kegel C.A.T.S

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mechanick View Post
                      Hey Kanga would you happen to have a clamp that i can borrow? lol
                      Believe me, if I'd had any more clamps, I would have used them...Lol...I don't have the time to go back to re-do them if they come loose!
                      Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
                      Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
                      Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
                      Kegel C.A.T.S

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                      • #12
                        I prefer to glue the carpet first and let it set up. Then position the carpet on the board the way you want it. Lift one side and apply glue to the board and let it tack up. Then press the carpet down. Now you have it locked in position, just glue the rest of the board.

                        Trim the rubber block flush with the top of the board if it sticks up. You don'y want a hump where the pins and balls come off.
                        If you think my girlfriend can fight, you should see her box!

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                        • #13
                          A note to guys working with wood boards. The rubber strip that is used at the exit for the ball and pins is designed to extend all the way across the board...just like the one on the front of the board. Today, manufacturers make their assembly with the wrong rubber at the exit...they are installing the same rubber that is used on the fiberglass board. The outer portions of the wood board are not supported with this setup and eventually will allow the wood board to fail. If you do not have the proper rubber strip at the exit...this is a perfect time to install the proper one...if the wood hasn't already started to crack that is.
                          TSM & TSM Training Development
                          Main Event Entertainment
                          480-620-6758 for help or information

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                          • #14
                            Great post Steve,

                            The wood boards like to bounce up and down sort of speak in the corners without the longer rubber also

                            Mike
                            DO A NEAT CLEAN JOB, AND FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. THE ONLY WAY TO WORK.

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                            • #15
                              Just pulled broken board (wood) and replaced with fiberglass. Just glued new carpet to new wood board. Have to trim later. It was the board that started this thread. Thanks for all the help.

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