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  • Continuous Recycle

    Have a lane that is in continuous recycle. I have eliminated all electrical possibilities, including replacing TDM, eliminating recycle button up front, trigger switch out of electrical box is fine, and auto trips. Seems mechanical. However, linkage/actuator is good, dashspot good. Will not stop at 180 either, however clutch is in correct position to stop machine at 180. Tried adjusting clutch, but to no avail. I can get the machine to stop cycling @ 0 if I remove power and let it sit for a few minutes. After resetting, machine will go back to cycling. Trip lever for rake/shotgun is not issue either. Think the worm shaft is worn enough to cause this issue? Time to rebuild GB clutch?? Any thoughts? Thanks guys!
    ...I'd rather be bowling.

  • #2
    you didnt mention your cycle solenoid,have you checked this? if not, it could be the plunger sticking on the solenoid cover,or a bad solenoid itself. if this is not the case,at what position is the 4:1 arm to the rake crank link @ 0 degrees? if this is out of proper adjustment you need to look at the GB clutch assm. a rebuild cant hurt and could possibly be the solution to the problem.
    wish i had the same access to that infallible source of expertise on lane conditions that bowlers seem to have....

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    • #3
      check that the clutch is not contaminated with oil or any thing
      Mama said bowlers are ornery because they got all them balls and conditions are never good enough

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      • #4
        Forgot to mention the solenoid. It is fine as well. Rake crank will not pause, once it is passed the 0 mark, the solenoid then is forced to fire. During the cycling it seemed to want to slow down approaching 0, but would puck the speed back up and continute to rotate. It is pretty noisy, and whines as it rotates, so that is leading me to believe the rebuild is necessary. I did shut off the lane at 0 and did the rank crank arm adjustment to no avail. It is in the correct position. Does not look like any oil is on or around the clutch area. I'm out here to bowl in a small tourney in a bit. Fortunately we don't desperatley need the lane today or tomorrow. I'll be back in to the alley in the morning as usual and have all the parts to rebuild the assembly. If anyone thinks of anything else let me know. I very much appreciate the help.
        ...I'd rather be bowling.

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        • #5
          also forgot to say I did check the cover for the solenoid....it is clear of obstruction.
          ...I'd rather be bowling.

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          • #6
            if the solenoid is firing it has to be electrical try unplugging solenoid from channel
            Mama said bowlers are ornery because they got all them balls and conditions are never good enough

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            • #7
              I miss-spoke. Solenoid is not firing. As the crank goes past 0 (starting to cycle again) the linkage is forced to engage AS IF the solenoid has fired. I apologize for that confusion. It's Sunday...I don't think I'm "firing" properly yet. )
              ...I'd rather be bowling.

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              • #8
                Is the latch grtting under the pin on the reset lever which if not could be a reset lever or dashpot issue ? is the reset lever pulling the actuator down ? is the stop arm rotating under the clutch lever arm ? is the clutch lever coming up high enough for the stop arm to get under it which would also cause the 180 problem which could be g.b. clutch issue ? triggering sequencing is in the manual and will help with troubleshooting
                formerly dunsel
                ITS NOT HOW MUCH YOU KNOW ITS HOW MUCH YOU CARE!!!!!

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                • #9
                  Reset clutch lever is cracked. Also check the x-washer pin on the end of the clutch actuator link.. the spring may have worn grooves in the x-washer pin and is causing a bind.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by obdll View Post
                    check that the clutch is not contaminated with oil or any thing
                    Does not look like any oil is on or around the clutch area. I'm out here to bowl in a small tourney in a bit.

                    You will not be able to see any oil or grease accumulated on the clutch facings until you take your clutch apart. What can happen sometimes is that grease or oil can get on the facings of the clutch pulley and the surface tension of the contaminate will cause the clutch disc to momentarily stick to the clutch pulley and momentum will take it into another cycle. Either way you probably want to take your clutch apart anyway. I like to cycle the machine to 90 deg. on standing pins (all 10 pins). This will leave the machine in a good position to remove the worm shaft if needed.
                    (Psalm 37:29) The righteous themselves will possess the earth, And they will reside forever upon it.

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                    • #11
                      in case Eric (Captaintenpin) forgets to post back... he ended up rebuilding the GB clutch and all is well. the bearing for the clutch pulley was SHOT! I forgot to take some pictures while i was there at work tonight, but it's the worst I've seen. Granted, I've only rebuilt maybe 4 or 5 but still--lol. He got it going, and I never had an issue during league tonight.
                      [email protected] | jsebeny <--YouTube | Cell: 309-275-2453

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                      • #12
                        good deal, thanks for the update!
                        wish i had the same access to that infallible source of expertise on lane conditions that bowlers seem to have....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Check the cam roller bearing on the reset lever inside the detector assembly, if broken or loose will cause the accuator link not to lock and will continuely cycle. Check for the springs might be off or sprung replace as nessasary.

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