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  • lift rod stud hardware

    IMG_0308.jpg IMG_0310.jpg


    So I am trying something with the use of different hardware for the lift rod stud. This is something I see a lot ^. Nylocks come loose but look tight, then over time they wear out the end of the lift rod as such. It becomes sort of counter sunk. Then when you go to put new hardware on, when you go to tighten it it will be tight for a bit and then shortly it will come loose and and the hardware becomes like above. If you put a washer to try to solve the problem it does not work because the nut just deforms the washer...I have tried putting thick grade 8 washers and it does the same. When you have the situation above, a lot of the time the nut will strip or deform the threads on the stud end. This happened on one of the ones I tried this to. I went over the threads with a 7/16"-20 die and was was able to get the new nut on nice and tight...I got lucky!

    So I am doing an experiment with the use of 2 types of nuts.

    IMG_0313.jpg IMG_0302.jpg IMG_0312.jpg IMG_0311.jpg

    The first is a 7/16" top lock flange nut. Its got a meaty base on it that will prevent it from getting sucked into the couter sunk wear in the lift rod end. I tired some on thier own and some with a 1/2" external tooth lockwasher in case it comes loose without it. I got them from fastenal PN 0167017.

    The second is a bit more pricy but I wanted to give it a try. It is a 7/16"-20 "disc-lock" nut from fastenal PN 11129047. It is a specialty nut that is supposed to prevent loosening by shock and vibration in high stress applications. I tried some on their own, and some with a thick grade 8 washer to see which works out best. On this one I think the washer will work out better because it will create a bigger foot print for the nut.

    I will periodically check them and will see over time which works out better.
    Nick

  • #2
    Nick - I believe that you're on the right track. However, I would take it one step further. I would bore out the spring rod enough to insert a bronze oilite bushing. Run the separator shaft through the bushing. What this should accomplish is keeping the nuts tight on the separator shaft; and allow the spring rod to rotate on the separator shaft.

    What I believe is happening is that vibrations and a tight fit with the spring rod causes the separator shaft to rotate, which loosens the nuts, therefore causing the "counter-sinking" problem.

    Of course this is only theory, as I've been away from pinsetters for about a year and a half.

    Comment


    • #3
      nick
      I found over the years 7/16"-20 lock nut with a 7/16 lock washer works very good
      even when things get whacked out to rod ends

      most hold for years with monthly maintenance [titening ]

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      • #4
        I don't use a flat washer. I find that they get bent when the nut is torqued down, and end up getting clamped on to the threads of the stud. I just put on a 7/16" split lock washer, and a ny-lock or regular nut and torque the bajesus out of it. I check them and torque them down annually, but most of the nuts stay tight.

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        • #5
          Split lock-washers can separate with adverse torque. I have found that the lock nut called for along with sufficient torque keeps them tight...I use 100 foot pounds...using an actual torque wrench. I check these once a quarter but very rarely need to tighten them. Apply the torque wrench and it just clicks...letting me know that the proper torque is still present.

          I have used grade 8 washers in the past and the same result occurs as with the grade 2 washers. It just took a longer amount of time for the washer to start to cup around the lock nut.
          TSM & TSM Training Development
          Main Event Entertainment
          480-620-6758 for help or information

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          • #6
            It is not a split lock washer. Its a heavy duty disc lock nut....time will tell how well these preform.
            Nick

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            • #7
              We also tighten certain nuts/bolts quarterly which includes the lift rod hardware. Rarely I'll find one that has become loose. If I do, I replace the nut; this goes for all nylocs I find that have come loose.
              Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
              Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
              Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
              Kegel C.A.T.S

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              • #8
                Nick, where did you get those lift rod caps?
                (Psalm 37:29) The righteous themselves will possess the earth, And they will reside forever upon it.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Popeye View Post
                  Nick, where did you get those lift rod caps?
                  I got mine from JCP. I think QAMF sells them too
                  Nick

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mechanick View Post
                    It is not a split lock washer. Its a heavy duty disc lock nut....time will tell how well these preform.
                    I was referring to wepauls statement that he uses lockwashers. I have seen many split lockwashers split once torqued to a level that will keep them tight in this application.
                    TSM & TSM Training Development
                    Main Event Entertainment
                    480-620-6758 for help or information

                    Comment

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