Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Clutch actuator lever removal

Collapse

Adsense Classic 1

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Clutch actuator lever removal

    Im new to taking the clutch actuator lever off and is there a way to get to it? Do I have to pull the solenoid mount off along with the lever assembly in order to puoffice lever off? I just want to make sure I'm not doing it a harder way rather then a way that takes fewer minutes haha. Thanks guys.

  • #2
    The clutch actuator lever (or more commonly called the "stop arm") is removed by taking off all of the linkage on the shaft. All of them will come off as a group but there is some preliminary work to do before they will. Here are the steps needed to remove the stop arm (and the rest of the equipment)

    1. As you guessed, you need to remove the cycle solenoid mounting plate (if your version of this plates bolts to the two pivot shafts for the linkage). Take the plate and solenoid and set them aside.
    2. Remove the connection for the clutch reset lever to the actuator links. This will have a roller on the bolt/X-washer pin setup. Careful as the spacer can fall out easily and then you will be searching for awhile.
    3. Remove the X-washer that attaches the 180 degree interlock link to the clutch release lever. Remove the washer, then the 180 degree interlock link, another washer and then the spacer. All of these are on an X-washer pin in the clutch release lever...but the pin will stay with the lever. Allow the 180 degree interlock link to "hang out" until you put all this back together.
    4. There is a spring that is attached to the bottom of that same clutch release lever. There may be a screw holding the spring to the clutch release lever...if there is a screw there...go ahead and remove the screw to release the spring. It too can "hang out" until we put it all back together. If there is a roll pin holding the spring to the lever...you can remove the roll pin or you can remove the spring from the clutch reset lever. I use a straight slot screwdriver to push down on the open end of the slotted section of the spring and pop it off the pin. Don't worry about the spring if you do it this way...it will stay with the clutch release lever.
    5. Remove the X-washer at the front of the pin detector link and remove the X-washer pin. This is at the bottom of the strike cam follower/180 degree stop selector inside the detector.
    6. If you have a connecting link (bicycle link) between the plunger lever and the plunger (dashpot), remove the link.
    7. Remove the starter bellcrank tension spring, plunger lever tension spring, OOR stop arm spring (if you have these) and the stop arm spring.
    8. Remove the X-washer and pins at the front, middle and rear of the 12-100040-004 link and remove the link.
    9. Remove the X-washer from the OOR stop arm that holds its link. Remove the link from the OOR stop arm and flip it up toward the detector. I actually use its spring to hold it to the top of the detector arm that sticks up in the air that the link will run into as you pivot it up. You will get the idea as you pivot it up there.
    10. If you have not removed the bolts holding the linkage because you didn't have the style cycle solenoid mounting bracket that mounts through the pivot shafts, remove those bolts now.
    11. You should now be ready to remove the linkage from the pivot shafts. I use a 6" extension from my 3/8" drive socket set to pull the linkage onto as I remove it from the pivot shaft. Hold the extension against the shaft and then slide the linkage onto the extension. This will keep everything together for you so it will be easier to re-install later. The starter bellcrank should just follow along as you pull the linkage off the pivot shaft. Help it keep up as you remove the linkage.

    Reverse all of the procedures to re-install. Remember to be sure the 180 degree interlock link stays on the outside of the actuator links as you begin to re-install as it will like to get on the wrong side from time to time.

    Hope this helps...
    TSM & TSM Training Development
    Main Event Entertainment
    480-620-6758 for help or information

    Comment


    • #3
      Sweet. Thanks Steve. Very detailed. It'll help.

      Comment

      Topic Starter RibbonScript

      Collapse

      Adsense Classic 2

      Collapse
      widgetinstance 666 (Related Topics) skipped due to lack of content & hide_module_if_empty option.
       

      Well this is a first.

      We all from time to time have one of those “wow I’ve never seen THAT before” moments. Well today was one of those for me when my night tech texts me to say lane 16 is out...
       

      Ball return wheel guide roller removal.

      Hey guys, i could just use a bit of advice trying to get this part out, first time I've had to do one of these. I got it to move a few turns but its come to a point where it has...
       

      Even old mechanics find something new.

      All my years working on these things I never had this happen…… until last week. ...
       

      82-90XL Frontend Gearbox Parts - Rebuild Woes

      We have 5 of the 088000365 replacement gear kits on the shelf, and I pulled two gearboxes off machines earlier this week, so I thought I'd try my hand at rebuilding them and save...
       

      Prolane damage

      Can this be repaired?
       

      LED Ball Lights

      Made an LED conversion for A2's and Frameworx masks. It can also be modded for the Harmony masks to accept 2 x 5mm led's and/or a 12v supply. Once I'm happy with the performance/design...
      Working...
      X