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  • Moving deck loose? Maybe, I don't know,

    I am having an isue with my moving deck. When it goes to set new pins, the deck will shift back very violently with a loud bang. As the deck starts to make it's self back upward, it shifts back in a really rough, jerky manner. I've adjusted it's cable in so many different ways, with no luck. I started looking into other options, and it seems as if the moving deck is getting jammed on something, maybe. But It also seems kind of loose. Like it can slide side to side a bit. But I might be blowing how much it goes from side to side out of proportion a bit. Anyone have any ideas for me? Thanks for your time.

  • #2
    Check the geneva rollers on either side of the deck. Check between the moving deck and the stationary deck for loose hardware that might be binding when it is in motion.

    Put the deck part of the way down so you have access to everything and manually pull on the MD cable to let it slide. Manually slide the deck back and forth to feel and find where the bind is coming from.

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    • #3
      You may have a 1to1 going bad. There are other things that can cause a deck to shift hard. One of them is the moving deck cam follower. Make sure that the shaft that it swings on is tight to the gearbox. Also, the moving deck/scissor cam could have a rounded out keyway; or the key could be broken. There is the slim possibility that the wrong cam was installed.

      If the moving deck moves side to side, more than 1/16 of an inch, check the deck roller guides.

      But, there are more things that are possible; such as the moving deck pivot shaft has enlarged the hole in the 1to1 cover. This would be caused by the mounting screw coming loose, and allow the cam follower to "bounce around." There is, also, the possibility that the bronze bearings in the cam follower are damaged or broken. This would cause the cam follower to bind in its movement.

      Let us know what you find.

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      • #4
        if its not loose hardware, on your moving deck cam lever (upper moving deck cable), check to make sure the shaft that is sits on has not broken the hex cap screw, which mounts to the side of the gearbox. i had a machine do this with simular if not identical motion to it. just somthing else to look for.

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        • #5
          Cycle to 270 degrees setting new pins and shut machine off at that position. LOTO should be done at this point to prevent injury. Remove the pins from the deck chutes. Remove the moving deck cable from the top pulley on the deck post. You will now be able to pull on the cable and move the moving deck forward and reaward with reasonable safety. See if you feel a bind. If you do...then you will need to investigate the deck assembly further...like the geneva rollers on the geneva pulleys as mentioned above. If it moves smoothly...your issue is not in the deck assembly. Put the cable back on and we will check elsewhere. Cycle the gear box to 110 degrees second ball. Shut off and LOTO. Using a rag to protect your hands from possible sharp edges, grab the moving deck scissor cam and try to move it. Notice if it moves and if it does, what is actually moving. Do other shafts move, other cams or just that cam. Let us know what you find and we can point you in the right direction.
          TSM & TSM Training Development
          Main Event Entertainment
          480-620-6758 for help or information

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          • #6
            When i had a similiar problem, i had a crack in the moving deck on bothsides,in front of where the Geneva plate bolts on at. This allowed the rear of moving deck to sag, and made deck shifting extremely difficult. This would be seen if the above step is used, for safely inspecting @ 270.

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the responses guys. I've checked the moving deck all over, including the geneva assembly, all seems to be fine. I started focusing on the moving deck cam and it's follower. At the point when the deck shifts back to set new pins, the follower does indeed roll back hard on the cam. And at the point for it shifts back farther when moving upward, the whole cam itself pauses for a moment, then abruptly shifts all the way back. I don't know if this is supposed to tell me that the problem is indeed with something on the 1to1 or not.
              I also did stop the machine at 110 second ball and tried to rotate the cam. It would budge just a little bit, which also moved the rake lift cam along with it, but again, it was very minimal movement. Plus the spur gear, what I believe is the spur gear, also moved a tiny bit too. Any further suggestions?

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              • #8
                Did the 2:1 move while you were trying to move the cam? If not...then you have a bad 1:1. Best thing is to remove the assembly and put in a rebuilt unit. You can take the time to build the 1:1 and still use the machine...noise and all...and when you are ready, you can proceed. This will keep the down time to a minimum.
                TSM & TSM Training Development
                Main Event Entertainment
                480-620-6758 for help or information

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by highball View Post
                  And at the point for it shifts back farther when moving upward, the whole cam itself pauses for a moment, then abruptly shifts all the way back. I don't know if this is supposed to tell me that the problem is indeed with something on the 1to1 or not.
                  That makes me believe that you have a bad keyway or key on the 1to1 shaft.

                  I also did stop the machine at 110 second ball and tried to rotate the cam. It would budge just a little bit, which also moved the rake lift cam along with it, but again, it was very minimal movement. Plus the spur gear, what I believe is the spur gear, also moved a tiny bit too. Any further suggestions?
                  When you mentioned that, it leads me to believe that the gear teeth are OK. If a tooth was missing/broken, moving the 1to1 cam wouldn't have moved the other gears. And that leads me to believe that the cam's keyway or key has gone wonky.

                  Removing and replacing the 1to1 assembly will be an all day job if you've never done one before; however, it gets easier as you learn more about the machine. The quickest 1to1 assembly took me 2.5 hours, start to finish. (Of course, I took a lot of shortcuts, and had a spare assembly ready to go.) The most "difficult" part of the operation is locking the detector in place. You don't want it to move when it has been removed from the machine.

                  Using Steve Stafford's method is probably the best and easiest if you're unsure how to do it successfully. .

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