Switching to ice cubes

[Bobby_W]

I am in the process of cleaning up my electrical boxes and have started switching my motor start relays to the ice cubes. I am wanting to do the same with the contactor and time delays if at all possible. I have Accuscore with AMF ball detects on an a-2. Can someone describe which relays I'll need and the wiring, it would be greatly appreciated.

[PJ]

The one made by Brunswick should work fine and it comes with instructions. There are also instructions in the refernce section.

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

You can not eliminate the time delay module if you have Accuscore, Accuscore II or Accuscore +. If you have Accuscore XL...that is a different story.

As far as how to eliminate the time delay module...

Remove wire 52 from NC of trigger switch and connect to A of new relay
Remove wire 42 from TS2-11 or TS2-12 (depending on which it goes to) and attach to TS2-9.
Remove wire 47 from TS2-12 and attach to TS2-9
Remove wire 57 from TD1-13 and attach it to B of the new relay base.
Remove wire 54 from TD1-14 and the motor start relay coil. Discard wire.
Remove wire 53 from TD1-15 and TS2-8. Discard wire.
Remove wire 68 from TD1-16 and TS2-12. Discard wire.
Remove wire 55 from TD1-17 and Y2. Discard wire.
Remove wire 56 from TD1-18 and the common of TSC-1. Discard wire.
Remove wire 58 from TD1-19 and attach to 6 of the new relay base.
Remove wire 59 from TD1-20 and attach to 9 of the new relay base.
Remove wire 69 from TS2-12 and discard
Be sure base is mounted securely in electrical box.
Install new relay in relay base.

I have been testing a new style relay and base setup for the motor contactor. It has shown promise. As with any setup for the motor contactor...current draw is a major issue. Any resistance that occurs within the circuit can lead to enough heat to melt the device. I have found a relay and base that has very little resistance and has been working for some time now with no heat buildup. The one disadvantage to the setup is that each of the contacts by themselves will not support the current draw. It must be installed like the Japanese contactor where a jumper is used to combine two of the four contacts to increase the capacity of the contacts. This is done on each side of the contactor so there are four jumpers installed. Here is the end result once installed.



If this is something you are interested in...the part numbers are as follows:

Here are the numbers for the motor contactor
1EHX2 Relay
1FC15 Relay base (These should cost you under $35.00 to get)

I use these to replace the motor start relay
1EHW4 Relay (This relay is being discontinued by Grainger...but is still available for now)
or
1EZ95 Relay (This relay is the same as the 1EHW4 but has a "push to test" button)
1FC14 Relay base (These should cost you under $30.00 to get)
To mount them, I use a Din rail cut to fit. 1 rail should do about 25 relays.
6X295 (This should be about $7.00)

Just a note...the advantage to these relays and bases is how tight they fit together. Unlike the 5X840 and 5X853 setup, these will not vibrate out.

[Ted]

Is the AS+ scoring interface wiring any different with this wiring Steve? Seems the K-1 would be the same.....Never seen it hooked in without a TDM.

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

AS+ can not run without a TDM...the wiring change I described is for Accuscore XL...if he happens to have that version of Accuscore. His profile states Accuscore...which could be any number of scoring systems if he just left off a few letters.

It will also work with BOSS, Qubica, Brunswick Classic or any other scoring system that cycles the pinsetter by using a ball detect of some type.

Sorry for the confusion Ted...I should have been clear about the scoring system that the above will work with...my fault.

[ColJim]

Will the motor contactor set up work on Jap A/2's with Qubica scoring ?

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

That is the very setup I have and what I designed it for to begin with. The factory Japanese motor contactor has the same issue as this relay has...each contact by itself can not carry the entire load of the motor...so they used jumpers to double them up. I am not a big fan of this but it was the only way I could find that would allow us to use a "plug and play" relay in that location. Just wish it hadn't taken me this many years to come up with it.

The only thing I changed from the other items in the electrical box was to lower the Japanese thermal overload as it was too close to the motor contactor relay base. Otherwise...a great replacement.

I will try to remember to get a picture of the inside of a finished box when I get back to work.

[ColJim]

Thank you. I will copy the schematic and put those on my to do list

[Brillion77]

Steve, would you happen to have wiring schematic for converting A2 to ice cubes.
Machine history:
Jet Back converted to A2
208v
ser. # 90064
Frameworx Touchworx scoring
Dual output ball detect (brown box, three red led)
Ball booster converted to ball accelerator
Would like to convert contactor and start relay.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[me_and_my_68]

Steve, How long have you had the relay setup for the motor cantactor in and operating on your pinsetters? I like the plug and play relays myself. makes for a very quick repair should a problem arise in the future. I have been playing around with and have had much success with a relay setup that uses the signal from the f-box and drops the rake, then via a time delay relay cycles the pinsetter 3 seconds later. I have then added a M.S. relay on the rail setup with the other two relays. Another plug in relay for the motor contactor would complete the hat-trick.

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

I will put something together so you can go wire by wire. In my machines I have been wiring TS1 and the transformer a bit different than the original schematic calls for...it has made it easier for others to troubleshoot. Not a lot of changes...but if you are interested in that, I can put it in the wire for wire change over. I am working on drawing a new wiring diagram and schematic that will eventually go inside the electrical boxes after being laminated so future mechanics will have something to look over for that machine. My goal is to make the entire center the same...

I have had these in just a bit over two years now with absolutely no signs of heat buildup on the base anywhere. So far it is very promising due to how tight the relay fits in the base.

[Brillion77]

Would greatly appreciate that, THANK YOU!

[Drillmn300]

I would love a copy of that too, my worst change out is contacts for the motor start, I would rather change a 1-1 then tackle an Allen-Bradley.

[smitsmit]

i would too,thanks

[fhall]

I would also be interested in this. I have one spare Jap box to mess around with, but its the only one. Thinking of scrapping almost all the components inside and starting fresh but wiring it American style so it can be swapped out with any box in the house and start again.