Electrical issue after rewiring electrical box!

[batbowler]

I have a pinsetter that had the Federal Pacific motor contactor, 3 pole motor start relay, old transformer. I posted before about the wiring being shot and when you did anything in the electrical box the wires were hard and brittle. Some of the wires had the coating cracked and you could see the copper wire. I had shorting issue, along with arcing and even other machines would come on when you messed with the wires. I pulled new wires and rewired the box and safety switches. I installed a cube style motor start relay:782 Series 15 A DPDT 24 VAC PCB Mount Ice Cube Relay- Relay 8 Pn Socket Screw Terminal Panel Mount- Base Relay, Motor Relay to replace Federal Pacific moor contactor: W92 Series 30 DPST (2 form A) 120 VAC DIN Rail Mount Power Relay all bought for Future Electronics. I used a 10 amp breaker in place of the thermal overload. The transformer that was installed was loose and wires were falling apart, but it had three wires on the right side that were the same color/covered in black tar looking substance. The new transformer has the four colored wires on the right side. The electrical box is the original that has the cover on the front of the machine. I get 208 to 215 volts at the plug, but the H5 wire from the transformer was taped off like the 230 Volt schematic shows. I'm thinking the pinsetter is a 208/220 volt and not 230 volts. The pinsetter also has the two mechanics switches at the rear of the machine, one is the trouble switch. The problem is when I turn on only the mechanics on/off switch the machine turns on and the cycle solenoid engages. I've checked the wires and TDM wiring and everything looks correct, but I can't figurre out why the machine is getting power with just the mechanics swithc turned on without the trouble switch being on! The positive is the machine runs, where it didn't run before the rewiring and electrical box changes. I've been receiving a lot of help from Bwhite on here and that's why the machine is running. I just need help and ideas to get the bugs out!! Any help would be greatly appreciated, Bruce

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

Bruce...unplug the managers control cannon plug and see if the machine stays on. Unplug the bowlers reset button cannon plug and see if the cycle solenoid stays engaged. Post back with results.

There is no such pinsetter as 208/220. Either it is is wired as a 208 or a 230 and based on the fact that H5 was taped...it would have been wired as a 230 volt machine.

When you removed the motor contactor (Federal Pacific), was it a 208/230 volt coil or did it have a 120 volt coil? This would make a difference in your wiring for the new style that you stated has a 120 volt coil. Did you make the appropriate wiring changes to allow for the new voltage of the coil?

You stated that the old transformer had three black wires (covered in tar) and the new transformer has 4 colored wires. How did you wire it?

I do not know how your original machine was wired...there are two possibilities. Your bio states that you have A's and converted A-2's. Is this machine an A or is it a converted A-2? If it is converted...was the electrical system converted also? There were machines that were field converted but did not have the electrical system converted from the A version wiring to the A-2 version. Bottom line...TS2-6 and TS2-9 were switched in these two different versions. This could cause you some issues as we go through the troubleshooting procedure if they are not the correct way.

Let us know...and feel free to give me a call and I can walk you through the checks you are going to need to make.

[batbowler]

Hey Steve! What I meant to say was it was wired like the schematic from a manual I have from 1958 and the schematic says 208/220 and it also shows the trouble switch wiring. I found the book in the bottom of an old desk in the back of the bowling center. The wiring was not converted and the machines were bought and installed from another bowling center in 1994 I believe. I looked at the wiring schematic for an A2 and it didn't match the way the box was wired! I'll unplug the mgr's control cannon and bowler's reset cannon plug and let you know what I get, plus I'll check the voltage on the Federal Pacific coil! Thanks for the reply and help, Bruce

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

OK...I understand. Let us know what you find.

[batbowler]

I just figured out that it's a 220 volt pinsetter. I have the jumper on the TS1- A, B, & E with H-5 end taped! So much for my earlier detective work!!!

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

It is considered a 230 volt machine...regardless of what the early schematics show. (Not that they were wrong...things have just changed since then. ) If you have only 208 to 215 volts as you mentioned in your original post...the machine is wired incorrectly for that supply voltage. You will need to wire the electrical box correctly to insure the proper voltages are supplied to the various components on the pinsetter. This is easily done by moving a couple of wires within the electrical box. If you are up for it...let us know. If you want to leave it as is...the machine will work but certain voltages will be wrong.

[batbowler]

Ok, I unplugged CN1/ball rack reset and the machine still reset when I turned it on. I unplugged CN3 and the machine wouldn't turn on. I took the deck jam micro switch off so it wasn't making contact and the machine still turned on. So the safety switches are bypassed. The Federal Pacific tag said coil CA126 115/230 volts 600 volt max 20 amp series Mod. 73. Thanks again for the help, Bruce

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

Sounds like something is wired wrong in CN3 either up front or on the way up there.

You will need to read the voltage of the motor contactor coil to be sure you have the appropriate voltage present. Let us know what you have there when the machine is on.

If the pinsetter stays on with the deck jam switch open...you will need to look at some wiring in the managers control circuit. You may need to look at each wire on TS2 and see where they go. Start at TS2-5 and work your way to TS2-1. Let us know what wires are present and where they go if you can.