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Accelerator removal
I am going to experiment with removing accelerator on A-2's w/concealed surface returns that have 2 rail steel track all the way, and go to gravity return. Am going to try using jetback track between pinsetters to replace accelerators, knowing it will have to be modified to connect to dropsweep. Anybody done this, or have any suggestions?Brent V
Hi-tech Repairs-Duck tape & ty rapsTags: None
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Originally posted by SoCalTom View PostThere are adaptor tracks listed in the Service Parts catalog. The type you'll need is probably listed there. Also, you'll have to remove your retarders at the power lift.Brent V
Hi-tech Repairs-Duck tape & ty raps
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Originally posted by wepauls View PostMY question is why if accelerators are working properly
Or are thy in need of some meager repairsBrent V
Hi-tech Repairs-Duck tape & ty raps
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Not to get off topic but slowing pinsetters down, is that by changing all the pulleys or mostly the motor to gearbox? Just curious. And I thought about going gravity as well. I had one out I did repair on and times it popped off track. So while I rebuild, I put 2 bungee cords on each side to keep it on track. But it'd be nice to have side guards to bolt on or something.
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Last summer I pulled an accelerator for overhaul and tried to 'engineer' a setup using electrical pipe for transition and track .... couldn't quite get it to work, but do know that there is enough speed to get the ball back to the lift. It was just the transition around the Y switch that killed it. Anyhow, after i finished work on the accelerator I put it back in. At the time I too was just looking at making things a bit simpler in nature.
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The trick to keeping the ball on the track after the Y is to be sure the Y is adjusted properly. It is a very touchy adjustment and any misalignment will cause the ball to "wobble" when coming out of the Y. Place a ball right at the exit of the Y and adjust the stop so it will position the ball and the Y evenly at the exit. The ball should be solid on both rails when checking this adjustment. A great improvement to the stop is the use of a carriage bolt instead of the bumper. It allows for better adjustment without needing to bend the stop arm. Certain Y switches do not work well for this application. There was a blue one that did not have material all the way to the end of the Y switch for the ball to follow...these Y switches do not work well on the non-accelerator style setups.TSM & TSM Training Development
Main Event Entertainment
480-620-6758 for help or information
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Originally posted by brentman1 View PostThey are working fine, owner just wants to simplify everything possible. Am presently slowing down to A pulleys, then going to slow down ball wheels, and then get rid of accelerators if possible, which would save a little on electricity and on repair costs.
If all are working good [ if it Wier me i would go with just slowing machines down for now ]
Get center tracks + parts in stock And when the accelerators go bad do that parLast edited by wepauls; 06-26-2012, 02:46 PM.
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Originally posted by Steve Stafford (JBEES) View PostA great improvement to the stop is the use of a carriage bolt instead of the bumper. It allows for better adjustment without needing to bend the stop arm.
Originally posted by wepauls View PostWith that sad and dune it seams to me it would tack 3 to 4 years to recover the cost of the changeover
If all are working good [ if it Wier me i would go with just slowing machines down for now ]
Get center tracks + parts in stock And when the accelerators go bad do that par
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Other thing to do is to make sure the y-switch does NOT go past the tray or rails for those who have rails.Have seen many places with bad y-stops due to the y-switch goes passed the tray enough to cause the balls to hit the tray at the tip ends.Simply reshape the y-stop bars and they we're good to go along with letting guys know to NOT use the y-stops as a standing platform and to weekly LOOK for ones getting bent,you want a smooth transistion there or you'll get bouncing etc.
I've wondered about cutting an accelerator and using the front end(motor side)like a booster,mount it up with correct height and then glue a belt or ? to the pulley to act like a go cart tire.Often thought that's all one really needs,the entire accelerator is a waste of space etc when all you need is the motor end set up like a booster assy then it's just a old belt glued to the pulley and a small belt from motor to pulley that is allready there.Set the height as you would for a ball booster.Or am i just thing all crazy like?!
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Brentman is using Y switch adjustable plates that Ed Fox is currently working with us on fabricating them. They are fully adjustable and eliminate the need for the stop bar at the end of the y switch plate. I have used them in our current version now for over 8 yrs and none have failed. Just waiting on Ed because he has made a cpl mods and I have it in place at my center now.
DaveWhen I die bury my balls next to the old bag!
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ive had great success with installing a smaller motor pulley and belt, and an accelerator lift kit. machine running a speed, and the ball would just make it back before the rake lifts. if you are going to buy parts, use the money for accel parts and just slow the bad boys down. jmo
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Originally posted by House View Postive had great success with installing a smaller motor pulley and belt, and an accelerator lift kit. machine running a speed, and the ball would just make it back before the rake lifts. if you are going to buy parts, use the money for accel parts and just slow the bad boys down. jmo70's MP/PBL/LBS,Q-Score
Prolane Walker sport
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There will be a mismatch in the track angles at the end of your jetback track to the top of the downsweep if you use the A-2. Maybe you could find the proper downsweep, else you'll have to heat the solid steel jetback track ends and bend them so the angles match. Make sure you get the track clamps to lock them together..
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This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.
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