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  • Gearbox Torque Specs???

    Out of curiousity, is there a torque spec for the gearbox bolts?... i.e. 1:1 cover, 2:1, 4:1, etc.

    Doing a rebuild, and just want a feel for what others do. I always go by "tight is tight, too tight is broke." which is go snug, then a little more.

    Threaded aluminum does make me nervous, but if theres torque specs and others do this, I would like to do it this way I think... get it to "factory"

  • #2
    Tight so brass ring can seal [ 1/4 turn more after bolt bottems out ]

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    • #3
      My Dad always told me...1/4 turn before it breaks.

      Seriously though. There are no recommended torque specs for the machine. You should go by the thread size and the material you are going into. In your case, you are looking at 5/16 - 18 in aluminum. 12 ft. lbs. will be more than sufficient if the threads are lubricated. (15 to 18 if they are dry) The brass seals will deform properly under this load and seal the holes where the bolts go through the covers.
      TSM & TSM Training Development
      Main Event Entertainment
      480-620-6758 for help or information

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      • #4
        Applying a little silicone sealant to the threads will prevent both leaks, and loosening of the bolts.
        My father told me to never get old...I should have listened!

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        • #5
          Is anti seize good to use when bolting into aluminum on these machines?
          jsebeny1980@gmail.com | jsebeny <--YouTube | Cell: 309-275-2453

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          • #6
            Originally posted by JohnSebeny View Post
            Is anti seize good to use when bolting into aluminum on these machines?
            No need for anti seize in that application... Does not see the heat or elements

            Mike
            DO A NEAT CLEAN JOB, AND FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. THE ONLY WAY TO WORK.

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            • #7
              Good point! Just curious is all
              jsebeny1980@gmail.com | jsebeny <--YouTube | Cell: 309-275-2453

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              • #8
                Originally posted by JohnSebeny View Post
                Is anti seize good to use when bolting into aluminum on these machines?
                The only place where you can use anti-sieze is on the bolts that attach the rake board to the arms. It makes it a lot easier when you replace rake boards.

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                • #9
                  I also use anti-sieze on the lower ball wheel guide roller studs where the bearing rides on, the ball wheel sheave (jack shaft), 1-1 cam to shaft, shaker drive pivot bolt. More than just the rake board bolts...LOL
                  My father told me to never get old...I should have listened!

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                  • #10
                    You shoudl also use it on the bolts that clamp the pit board in place. The threads in the arms can get pretty chewed up over time and the anti-seize will prevent the damage.
                    TSM & TSM Training Development
                    Main Event Entertainment
                    480-620-6758 for help or information

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the tips. I bought some Permatex RTV gasket material, in the tube. Think I'll use it on the threads.

                      I've always lubricated the threads on the pit, ball wheel rollers, etc. to aid with all of that. I always use anti-seize when I work on my truck, never thought to use it on the pinsetter. lol.

                      I do use it on the rake boards however. But now instead of having the bolts freeze up, I have a problem with them coming loose. I think its a better problem to have, just go through the house once in a while to check them all for tightness.

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                      • #12
                        You don't need to put any type of sealer on the threads!! The copper gasket will keep them from leaking.

                        Place that I used to work they used something on the threads to seal them. I spent many days sweating and cursing out the "mechanic" that did that. Even though he was no longer with the company.

                        I had a couple of oil plugs that I had to cut out because of the sealant that was used. Couldn't break it loose with an allen wrench and hammer.
                        You don't have to be crazy to do this job...But it helps!

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                        • #13
                          Im not worried so much about the leaking as i am with the bolts backing out. The reason i have the gearbox out is because the 1:1 had worked out over 1/4" in the front (pretty funny rake action too lol). I tightened it up and the bottom 2 bolts would not tighten... i assumed they were stripped. after pulling the box and inspecting, the bolts were broken, with one bolt broken half way in the hole. So needless to say, I have half a hole of thread now. so its more about keeping them in place that is my concern.

                          I believe using the form-a-gasket material, It doesnt harden, it stays a consistency of dried caulk, or am i wrong? and, IMO, that wouldnt create an issue with removing the bolts later.

                          Just looking for thoughts.

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                          • #14
                            A few years ago I had basically the same thing happen on one of my machines. But without the bolts breaking, yes it does create a funny rake sweep.
                            If you are pulling the 1:1 you should be able to get the broken bolt out without too much trouble, so only having half a hole worth of threads shouldn't be an issue. I always felt that with the copper washers in place, and tightened properly, that they would also act as a sort of lock washer to help keep the bolts from backing out. Whether this is true or not, I don't know, just my way of looking at it. When the bolts are tightened correctly the washers deform to fill any gaps, which would also make them "fold" around the head of the bolts a little bit and hold them in place.

                            I may be a little old school on this, but if the original design has worked for this long, and nobody has done any "modifications" on the sealing surfaces (read grinding off old gaskets etc.) then there isn't any reason that to "beef up" the old system with sealant. JMHO.
                            You don't have to be crazy to do this job...But it helps!

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                            • #15
                              Unfortunately...the gaskets don't act as good lockwashers. All too often, I find bolts have loosened a bit on the housings. Checking the bolts has always been a part of my "inspection" routine I learned years ago and have always been surprised to see just how many seem to loosen over time. Do I add anything to the threads when I change a housing? Nope...just make sure things are tight before leaving it on its own. Is it a good idea to add something to the threads? That I am not sure of. I already spend too much time scrubbing mating surfaces clean after something like permatex or RTV has been applied...so i am not too much into adding more stuff. I am putting a gear box together right now...maybe I will try some non-hardening permatex on the threads of the bolts and see what happens.
                              TSM & TSM Training Development
                              Main Event Entertainment
                              480-620-6758 for help or information

                              Comment

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