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Testing Time Delay Module

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  • Testing Time Delay Module

    Is there a way to test this while it is off the machine? The guy that was here before me left a bunch of used parts laying around and I really didn't want to have to install them to see if they are any good.
    It's better to remain silent and let people think you're stupid than to speak and remove all doubt

  • #2
    What kind do you have?
    I've had enough of hope & chains.

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    • #3
      Brunswick and Quality
      It's better to remain silent and let people think you're stupid than to speak and remove all doubt

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      • #4
        I'm sure it can be done, although I don't have the hookups for those particular TDM's. I built a tester for AMF's TDM (218-003-157) and will soon be building a tester for the ZOT Time Delay plus. Basically all you need is a source (switch usually) to start the TDM, and a load to test the outputs (I use 2 X 120VAC lamps).

        Do you have the hook up diagram for the ones you have?

        Jon
        I've had enough of hope & chains.

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        • #5
          You will need a transformer that will convert 120 volts to 24 volts. The 24 volt output will be hooked up to 13 and 14. 15 will use an input that would come from a switch that you will label 2nd ball light. Be sure that the lead going to this switch is the same lead that is going to 13. Next you will need a single pole double throw switch. If you can get one that is momentary in one direction...that would be great. Be sure that the switch has a normally open and a normally closed set of contacts as the normally closed contact is used to discharge a capacitor in the time delay module on the original ones from Brunswick. You will connect the common of this switch to 18 of the time delay module. You will connect the normally closed to 17 and the normally open to 16. You will need one more switch...this should be a momentary switch and should be normally open. A door bell switch would work or if you have an extra reset button from the back of the wire channel or a bowlers reset button...either will work. Attach one side of the switch (it does not matter which one) to the normally closed contact on the single pole double throw switch and the other side of the switch to the normally open side of the single pole double throw switch. Now you will need to attach wires to the 24 volts that you are using out of your transformer. One side should be attached to 19 of the time delay module. The other wire from the 24 volt power supply should go to a device that will show that the contacts are closed to power your solenoid. I personally used a small light bulb in a miniature socket. The other side of the light will go to 20 of the time delay module. Each of the connectors (I used alligator clips...see picture below) that will go to the time delay module to be tested should have wire markers on them so you won't need to guess as to what terminal they will attach to. You can build all of this into a little hobby box from Radio Shack.



          If you have any issues putting this together...let me know.
          TSM & TSM Training Development
          Main Event Entertainment
          480-620-6758 for help or information

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          • #6
            I made a drawing a while back of a simple test hookup. It might be 16 instead of 17 though.

            TDM tester.jpg

            When i was building them in my basement, I made one smilar to Steve's, and used a terminal strip with stiff wires attached so i could just hold the new TDM against the test wires and push a button, then switch on the 2nd ball 24 volts and push the button again.
            Last edited by Ted; 06-29-2012, 06:53 AM.
            .
            .
            .
            This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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            • #7
              Made this one (as best I could) when I was about 16 or so. Still use it to this day because I don't have the time to make a better one.
              25082011589.jpg 25082011590.jpg

              Would like to make one with a single plug for the terminal strip and a display to show the exact time delay for fine tuning.
              Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
              Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
              Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
              Kegel C.A.T.S

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              • #8
                As long as we're posting pics:


                The round thing was a small timer - but it's long since DOA.
                I've had enough of hope & chains.

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                • #9
                  Thanks guys I really appreciate it.
                  It's better to remain silent and let people think you're stupid than to speak and remove all doubt

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                  • #10
                    makes my aligator clips look like childs play

                    nice work all

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                    • #11
                      If you have Jap TDM's, watch out, the internal schematic is different than American. They did away with one coil in the reed relay.

                      And if you are not sure of the TDM, you should fuse it externally with a half watt - 10 ohm resister in case there is a shorted circuit internally. This will stop the puff of smoke effect when you power it up. Be aware that there is a 10 Ohm - 1/4 watt fuse already on the power input, and it may be cooked already.

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                      • #12
                        Jim - if you want to fuse, it, why not a 1 a fast blow in line on the 24 vac supply? Seems a resistor might not open fast enough to save other components, but I don't know that for a fact.
                        .
                        .
                        .
                        This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jim_long View Post
                          Be aware that there is a 10 Ohm - 1/4 watt fuse already on the power input, and it may be cooked already.
                          If the internal resistor is already cooked, the unit will not power up, no matter what you do. The resistor must be replaced first; then power it up.

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                          • #14
                            Brunswick found that using a resister in circuit works faster and better for protecting TDM's. They also used the same set up on other PCB's that interfaced with equipment. Today you can get fuses that are rated in the micro-amperage range, but there not as cheap as a 200 count box of resisters (about $3.00).

                            Also, inline with the resister is a 1N4004 diode, these also had the tendency to open the power circuit.

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                            • #15
                              The schematic for the original TDM's is on page 1-79 of the grey manual. Jim is correct about the diode which, is D-1 on the schematic. D-1 (rectifier), R1 (inrush current limiter) and C1 (filter capacitor) form a half-wave DC power supply whose output exits on 16 and goes to the reset buttons , trigger switch and in my case the six-box. The TDM uses a programable-unijunction transistor in conjunction with the timing resistors and capacitor to produce the time delay. If the diode fails shorted it will result in AC voltage being applied to the timing circuit and it will fail. Similarly the AC second ball voltage is routed into 15 where diode D-2 and R-2 rectify that input to charge the timing cap. The Bruns PCB style TDM's operate in a similar fashion with dropping resistors and zener diode regulators to tailor the voltage for use by a 556 dual timer chip. I have posted up in the past about the DC voltage produced by the TDM and got a bunch of flack about it so maybe Steve can get a schematic to wb8yjf to verify what I said. For those of you who don't know, he is in the electronics repair business.

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