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Reset Lever
Hi guys, bewen awhile again. I am working at the fun zone in Columbia Missouri part time and I need some info. I am replacing the reset latch on a machine and I can't get the pin out that it is mounted on. There isn't enough room for it to come all the way out to reove the lever with the bearing follower. Am I going to have to cut the pin off and use a new one to replace the lever. My old A's were 2 piece levers and I didn't have that problem. I a going back up today and try and get it out so I can wele the lever back together until I get a new one. Hope someone has an answer for me quick. Send me an email if you like or reost on here.Pain is the weakness leaving body
Courage is the other side of Fear
RICKTags: None
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This is the big pin that holds the cam follower lever with the bearing follower right behind the detector. It controls the up and down motion of the clutch actuator that your reset latch goes under to stop the cycle. It has the spring that is connected to it that is held on by a small allen screw also.Pain is the weakness leaving body
Courage is the other side of Fear
RICK
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Went back up today for awhile and decided tomorrow I think I will drill a hole in the ear on top of the gearbox to get a punch in. I can drive it back through the other way and it should come out right below the scissor cam follower. if not I will have to cut it and just put in a new one.Pain is the weakness leaving body
Courage is the other side of Fear
RICK
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You need to drive it out toward the 7 pin side of the machine from the 10 pin side. You do not need to drill any holes in the gear box. You only need to drive it out far enough so the hole for the roll pin is out of the bearing and then use a punch in the hole to pull the shaft out. If you do this at 180 degrees, you should have no issues pulling the shaft out of the clutch reset lever.TSM & TSM Training Development
Main Event Entertainment
480-620-6758 for help or information
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Thanks, I'll have to keep trying to drive it back in. it is really tight and the pin is almost up against the ear on the gearbox. Still might have to cut it off and just drive it on through or drill the hole to get at it with a punch from the 10 pin side and drive it back in.Pain is the weakness leaving body
Courage is the other side of Fear
RICK
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OK...I see your issue. You drove it in too far from the incorrect side and now you need to push it back through. Cutting it off is definitely an option...you will only need to push it back in enough to get to the bearing and then the entire clutch reset lever would fall right out. You could try to drill a hole through the shaft like the one where the roll pin goes through...and then use a punch to maneuver it back far enough so you can get a punch on the end to drive it through. Just a thought...TSM & TSM Training Development
Main Event Entertainment
480-620-6758 for help or information
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Both sound like a good plan. I think I'll try the vise grips first and then drilling the hole before cutting it off. I need to order a new lever since the one is broke in two. It was cracked and started to bend upward and i couldn't get the right adjustment on the dashpot for the stop lever to keep from stopping the machine at 90 respotting pins or at 270. I never had that problem with the old cast dual levers on the model A's. it was always the cam followers bearing gong bad.
Thanks guys, another real problem saver from the forum.Pain is the weakness leaving body
Courage is the other side of Fear
RICK
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I ended up cutting it off and driving it on through. It was too tight to get back out the other way. It was really hard to knock it on through too. Been a long time since they have had any oil.Pain is the weakness leaving body
Courage is the other side of Fear
RICK
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