New style deck lowering link

[Carl D]

Noticed this the other day (I was wondering why the deck was wobbling a bit when going up and down).

Has anyone else had one of these break? I've always suspected that they're not as strong as the original style links. I've been working at this centre for just over 18 months and I've been told this link has been on the machine for several years. It also looked like the top nuts hadn't been tightened evenly which probably contributed to the break (I believe the bottom part of these links is hardened). I also don't know why someone welded the 'jam' nuts? Made it impossible to adjust the deck height.

Starts to make me feel a bit worried about getting underneath a deck with one of these links unless it's on 2nd ball so the deck holding hook is down.

I've replaced it with the same style link for now but I'm inclined to put in an original type which I've since found in a box of parts from a closed centre (when I can find a couple of decent bearings for it).

[Popeye]

I would guess that this was caused by the nuts not being even. That would put a lot of stress on the U-bolt. And the nuts being welded like this scares me. You might want to check your other machines to see if anyone of them is like this. I have this type of lowering link on all 24 of my A-2's and never had a problem like this. They have been running since 1980.

[duds99]

Really???????? Man I be changing that s%%% out right away.

[Kanga (James)]

Yes, in the past people have reported them breaking. Even though I don't have the new style I ALWAYS put the machine on second ball before entering underneath it.

[discobrian]

If you have Overtravel dont put it in 2nd ball.. If you want the protection of both the link and the hook, I just turn machine off and click into second ball while machine is off which lowers the deck hook. Kinda double protection.. Just wanted to throw that out there. I know Kanga knows this, but a new reader may not..

[shamefowjze]

That style lowering link is garbage.

[Kanga (James)]

If you have Overtravel dont put it in 2nd ball.. If you want the protection of both the link and the hook, I just turn machine off and click into second ball while machine is off which lowers the deck hook. Kinda double protection.. Just wanted to throw that out there. I know Kanga knows this, but a new reader may not..

Indeed yes, I should have pointed that out since if you have links you may still have overtravel. If you do have overtravel, don't run the machine to second ball, change it from first ball by the standing pins selector.

Thanks fror the heads up Brian.

[Dale00474]

-ALWAYS- regardless A or A2 place a few pins in an out-of-range position when going under the deck. In case one pin is kicked out if the deck falls another 1 or 2 will help catch it. On an A2 I always also put the machine in 2nd ball as suggested. Better safe than sorry. Agreed as well...that link is crap. Whoever welded the nut on is a complete moron. Not only could the heat weaken the stud it also prevents (just as you said) adjusting the thing. That is holding your deck up and seeing as moving deck lowering links aren't a wallet breaker I would always replace them with a proper part if I ever saw one welded. Its just too dangerous to play with. Not to mention the damage it could cause to the machine and lanes if the deck dropped from 0 degree height. Heck even 270 respotting height is bad enough.

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

Nothing wrong with the link if it is adjusted properly. It MUST be adjusted by turning the jam nuts equally. If they are not equal, the bottom of the link will eventually break. Every time the weight of the deck is applied to the end of the link, the weight of the deck tries to bend it to a new shape. Eventually this will cause it to break. I have seen this link on a machine for many years without breaking...but it was always adjusted the proper way. I have seen it break within a week when someone adjusted it incorrectly.

If you have more of these in your center...you should assume they are not adjusted properly. Safety first.

[Carl D]

Thanks, everyone.

I'm still thinking of changing the link back to the original type since it's the only machine (lane 11) out of 14 lanes in the centre that has it.

The new one is adjusted correctly, of course, so it'll probably be OK for many years.

On a lighter note, that machine (lane 11) must have known I was talking about it here so it set a surprise for me. While I was doing my machine inspection during league this morning I saw that the moving deck cam follower shaft bolt was broken. And, it didn't have a collar on the shaft but the shaft had only moved about a quarter of an inch. Thank goodness. Time to get a collar on there, I think.

After I fixed that, I noticed the machine was going to 2nd ball at 270 degrees setting new pins. The nut at the top of the detector rod was loose and, at some point in the above proceedings, the rod must have turned sideways and the top roll pin came off the bracket.

Wonder what it'll have in store for me after the weekend?

[sboring1977]

When I went to pinsetter school back in the early 90's my instructor (Robert Edwards) always stressed putting the machine on second ball before climbing in under the deck. So this is something that I have always remembered, and teach my mechanics. This is the very first thing that I teach them along with LOTO and make sure that they do it reguardless of what there working on when it comes to climbing into, onto or under the machine.
SAFETY FIRST

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

Bob taught the school in the early 2000's?

[Norcaltim]

I have one out of eight that has the new link, been fighting an over travel (90 degree stop) problem most of the week, read your thread and remembered we installed the new link on that lane earlier this year. Checked and sure enough it's broken, albeit at the top so it's less visible. Gonna try the new one once more with care to ensure the weight is equally shared on both sides of the long U bolt, (it's a lot faster replacement), but I'll keep an eye on it, and go back to the molded if it shows signs of wear/bending.

[Carl D]

It's actually a lot faster to replace the entire link (or put an old style back on) than it is just to replace the long 'u bolt' section.

Takes quite a while to remove the nylon locknuts, unless you have a long socket (which I didn't have). Not much room between the gearbox and cross conveyor to turn a spanner.

[sboring1977]

If I remember right I was in one of the first classes. I want to say 97 or 98. It was a couple years before Bowlerland in closed. I helped with the tear down when they closed along with Paul and a couple of other guys.