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  • Solderless relay conversion

    Is anyone running the solderless relays on the accelerators? How do you like them? What brand? How difficult to convert was it? Would love the feed back as I'm about to switch over I believe seeing as I have to replace 2 in 1 box after a short issue has arisen.

  • #2
    Anybody that has installed them would no doubt agree they are worth doing. Some would argue they are not worth going across the house and doing all of them just for the sake of doing them...but then would say that consistency is worth having so doing them across the house makes perfect sense.

    What brand? I use Dayton bases and relays. 1FC14 base and 1EZ95 relay. Should include a DIN Rail to hold the relay bases in place. 18Z758 DIN Rail.

    Difficulty? Not too bad if you can strip wires and tighten screws.

    Here is a wiring diagram for a 115 volt setup.
    115vbox.png


    Here is a wiring diagram for a 230 volt setup.

    230vbox.png
    TSM & TSM Training Development
    Main Event Entertainment
    480-620-6758 for help or information

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    • #3
      Steve....

      When did you start using DIN rails to mount the bases? Always thought you hard mounted the bases to the box? Also see you changed the relay and base combo.

      Regarding changing the relays out for the sake of changing them.... I'm of the group who thinks it isn't necessary to do it unless the relays in the box (and/or cabling coming from them) needs to be replaced. The ideal situation in this case would be to have a spare assembly on hand to swap out.
      Last edited by TheLegend; 05-01-2014, 08:37 AM.
      -- Larry

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      • #4
        I use Dayton bases and relays. 1FC14 base and 1EZ95 relay

        From Grainger I assume? I have the Brunswick's ordered from Ed but we are not sure if the bases come with them so it may not come to fruition in that manner. I think I may build a spare box to make it totally plug and play with recepticles. Going to add cannons from A/P box and twistlock for motor as well. Mine as they are now, are of the ancient variety. Time to upgrade seeing as how it has to be done anyway.

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        • #5
          The numbers are from Grainger.

          Larry...I have been using this setup for a few years now. The DIN rail makes it easier to mount the relays as I always had to try and get the mounting holes just right using screws and washers...this just makes it too easy. The combination I ran across when I was looking for a motor contactor that could be plug and play...and found this style relay and base. The motor contactor I use is a 4 pole version and is wired like the Japanese relay. They fit together very tight which creates two advantages...less resistance at the base where the relay plugs into which prevents heat buildup and the tight fit keeps the relay from vibrating out. Over three years and have yet to see one even begin to vibrate out of even get warm.
          TSM & TSM Training Development
          Main Event Entertainment
          480-620-6758 for help or information

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by FreeK View Post
            I use Dayton bases and relays. 1FC14 base and 1EZ95 relay

            From Grainger I assume? I have the Brunswick's ordered from Ed but we are not sure if the bases come with them so it may not come to fruition in that manner. I think I may build a spare box to make it totally plug and play with recepticles. Going to add cannons from A/P box and twistlock for motor as well. Mine as they are now, are of the ancient variety. Time to upgrade seeing as how it has to be done anyway.
            The Brunswick plug-in relays come as a kit (with relay, base, hardware and retaining clips) and the relay itself now can be ordered separately (the p/n listed in the kit instructions is wrong though, the correct number is listed in the latest "Genuine" parts book).
            -- Larry

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            • #7
              Sure Steve, change relays on me! Thats ok tho, we've got Tubbys 20 lanes done with your old setup for almost a year now, contactors, motor starts, accelerator and powerlifts 100% done, not 1 problem. Plus everything slowed down even turrets, so nice, saves wear and tear on everything.
              Brent V
              Hi-tech Repairs-Duck tape & ty raps

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              • #8
                These relays and bases Steve uses are of the best IMO. He is showing the lift drawing. Same relays can be put in the accelerator. You just have to add the 24 volt outputs to the powerlift connectors (parallels the 24 volt in from the machines).
                Same set-up for the lift though, as far as relays and bases. It could be a little less expensive if you use a 2 pole vs a 3 pole as in the drawing. In the 115 setup, the 3 poles are paralleled - could be done with one pole. In the 220, both phases are switched for the motor and/or hand dryer circuit - using 2 of the 3 relay poles.
                For the accelerator, of course, there would be no hand dryer outputs and no fuse for it.

                I have to add, one might consider a time delay (off) relay if you have Brunswick machines. It needs a 24 or 115 power supply wire to it, but then you get a delay before the accelerator and lift shuts off, and may eliminate underlanes. There is a relay that fits in that base, but this setup is a little salty....
                Last edited by Ted; 05-02-2014, 10:32 AM. Reason: off delay comment
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                This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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