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  • Wooden pit boards...

    I have been buying wooden pit boards for quite a few years now...and I've noticed a problem with some of the boards lately. I have had a few boards crack along a line just in front of the metal deflector plate. These boards are not very old...5-10 years. I also noticed that the rear rubber strip was only the short rubber strip that is used on the fiberglass boards instead of the longer rubber strip that goes from one side to the other to give support at the outer edge of the board. I called a couple of manufacturers and asked them about it. Brunswick told me "they've always been made that way." I told them I had some that have the full length strip on them and they are original. They couldn't explain it. They stuck by the original line. But, on page 83 of the green parts book, it clearly shows the strip on the back of the board going from edge to edge. (Top, left hand picture) Without that added support, the outer corners of the board would begin to bounce and over time, would break along a line that is just in front of the metal deflector plate...gee...sounds familiar. Has anybody else seen this problem, or did I just get a bad run of boards. Anybody else notice this problem?

    For now, I've been adding 2 short strips on either side of the short strip to support the rest of the board. Comments welcome...

    It's getting a little louder in here...lol Come on guys...talk it up a little.
    TSM & TSM Training Development
    Main Event Entertainment
    480-620-6758 for help or information

  • #2
    Re: Wooden pit boards...

    i've personally never been a fan of the wooden pit boards. dlamination, deflectors coming loose, and they never seemed as durable to me. though this is my opinion.

    alex
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    • #3
      Re: Wooden pit boards...

      we use the wood boards and you are right, you do have to add the rubber to make it better. I started using the 3/4 inch wood shakeer boards and they seem to be great, no signs of ball damage in about 4-5 years. You might have to modify your clamps to get them down, we notched out the carpet adn used a thin piece of rubber to clamp the down, otherwise they are nice.
      eric

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      • #4
        Re: Wooden pit boards...

        If you have A-2 type cushions the wooden board or the fibreglass board will fail if it is not tight to the upper shaker frame.
        They sell rubber bumpers that you hose clamp to the tubes of the upper shaker frame that keeps the board tight and allows a little shock absorbtion.
        Since your boards are cracking near the deflector it sounds like the board is not tight against the upper frame.
        If the board is breaking at the ball impact area this is the main problem of wood boards because the fibreglass board is thicker in the ball impact area.
        Graham

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        • #5
          Re: Wooden pit boards...

          Grambo...I think you missed my point...there is a piece missing from the NEW boards. The wood boards require a rubber peice across the entire back of the board. The bumpers you are refering to are for fiberglass boards. If you install them with a wooden board, you will have the rear of the deflector plates too high and have them hitting you wheel guards. I have 4 fiberglass boards in my center and each of them have those bumpers installed. The wooden boards require a rubber block to support it on the outside tubes. Part #12-300205-003. Page # 83 Index #66. You stated that "Since your boards are cracking near the deflector it sounds like the board is not tight against the upper frame." This is correct due to the rubber strip not going from one side of the board to the other. Do you agree?

          My point with this thread is not really to discuss the problem of the board breaking...I know what is causing them to break. I want to know if anybody else has seen this problem with the NEW boards and if they agree or disagree with me in the problem.

          [ December 23, 2001: Message edited by: JBEES ]
          TSM & TSM Training Development
          Main Event Entertainment
          480-620-6758 for help or information

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Wooden pit boards...

            Hey jbees
            sorry I mis read your post but now after your reply I know what you are talking about.
            Do the wood boards still come with the long rubber shim on the front of the board?
            If so then I would think the manufacturer is trying to save a few pennies by putting the short rubber shim on the rear of the pit board.
            If this is the new standard I guess you could take off the rubber shims from the bad board and cut them so they now extend on the rear of your new boards.
            Graham

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            • #7
              Re: Wooden pit boards...

              You are right JBEES, when I started buying them (wood boards) they are missing the piece, I just saved the old ones and made my own. When I talked to the rep about it, he had no good answer.

              I guess after so long you get used to the "new design" and fix it yourself with out saying anything.......man, has the Big "B" got us trained!
              eric

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              • #8
                Re: Wooden pit boards...

                So, you guys would agree that this is a problem and has to be fixed by the mechanic in order to prevent a very expensive part from failing prematurley.

                Gordon...is this the kind of banter you would expect in your new forum??? This would be an example of mechanics that have noticed a problem and have tried to point it out to the manufacturer and they won't even admit it is a problem. And now the manufacturer would have the feedback from the mechanics about how things appear to them...and could solve the problem by simply putting on the correct part. What do you think?

                [ December 27, 2001: Message edited by: JBEES ]
                TSM & TSM Training Development
                Main Event Entertainment
                480-620-6758 for help or information

                Comment

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