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  • detector problem

    I have a machine that every once in a while will not switch to 2nd ball, when I raise or lower the detector rod it will change which pin it will not detect from the 7-10-8-4 or 1 pin. I can move it until it won't detect a strike or standing pins, I'm not great at this so normally I would just change out the detector and then rebuild it on the bench. I had one machine that did it continuously and it ended up being the detector latch was broken off on the end and after putting it on the bench it was easy to see and I'm curious if this is a sign that it has some wear in it. All the deck pads are fine and I put a new deck hook on it but since the problem moves to a different pin I am guessing that this latch is stating to wear. Right now I have it adjusted to where if you leave the headpin with an empty deck it won't go to second ball but if you have a full deck it works fine. When to problem first started it would not go to second ball about every other time but still sporadic so I lowered to detector rod and it worked great except for the 4 pin and the 4-7 every once in a while so I lowered it another BCH and it moved to the 10 so another BCH and it moved to the 1 so another BCH and it wouldn't detect the 8. I don't know why but usually when I have trouble with the detector it is the Rake sweep hook cam bearing starting to go or one of the pins broken on the detector rod itself. The machine does detect OOR, strikes and standing pins where it is now(with the exception of 1 with an empty deck) and the deck is not bent or warped as I checked this out as well. My next step is too remove the detector put on a rebuilt one and tear the poor thing down, is there something I am missing or overlooking or is it easier just to change it out and r&r on the bench.
    Thanks
    Drill
    Drill

    David Bolt
    Champaign, IL
    USBC Silver Coach
    IBPSIA BOD
    IBPSIA Advanced
    Technical Certified
    Pro Shops

  • #2
    Re: detector problem

    Drill:

    A couple thoughts:

    How are the stablizer rod ends? Slop in them can cause detections to get squirrely, especially in front and back rows.

    For machine to switch to second ball, the standing pins selector (front one in the detector) should be un-blocked at 270 when she re-spots them, if it's not blocked by the disk, something's binding either in the selector and latch, or possibly a weak spring not giving enough pull, I'd jog her through the respot and see what the position of the disk is when it doesn't detect right.

    Kevin

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    • #3
      Re: detector problem

      K.L.
      Left out the 8 1/2 inches at strike height, probably the most important adj. next to deck lift shaft.
      Places every thing in middle.
      Love:
      Roscoe
      rfm

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: detector problem

        One thing I left out that might or might not be important, the gap in the lever assembly that you usually get when going into the second ball is present but not all the way ingaged. The gap is about 3/16 and just shy of gapping into second ball, it is rather tight to pull it into second ball but not real bad. The stablizer rods are the newer ones that I hate because they are the flat ones and I don't feel are as good as the older round ones.
        thanks
        Drill
        Drill

        David Bolt
        Champaign, IL
        USBC Silver Coach
        IBPSIA BOD
        IBPSIA Advanced
        Technical Certified
        Pro Shops

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: detector problem

          What type of pinsetters do you have?Factory A-2 or converted A?I agree with roscoe I would start by checking my deck for levelness and then being sure your strike hieght is set at 81/2in.We have replaced gearboxes before and had the detector adjustment act in a very touchy way until the 81/2 in.was set.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: detector problem

            I had a problem like yours. I checked the stabilizer rods. Also leveled the table from front to back and side to side. Machine works fine.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: detector problem

              All right, it's fixed but God only knows how. LOL The detector rod at the threads had a slight bend in it so I replaced it, still had the sporadic problem. I removed the rod with the hook on it that electrically shifts it to second ball for the tenth frame and the problem went away, I checked everywhere for any type of bind but couldn't find one. Put the piece back on and the problem came back, but it seemed like the detector would try to go into second ball but would only shift 1/8" and wouldn't quite shift all the way and only every once in awhile would mess up. Now I don't know the correct name for everything but I'm sure after taking Mike's test for about 3 years I can get a few of them. The latch that moves forward so that the detector can go into second ball, at the opposite end of it there is another piece that hits the end of it and the clearance on the end that hits was about 1/8" but on all other machines it was 1/4 +. I pushed in on the 1-2 ball switch and the thing moved, there was a 1/8" gap in the 1-2 switch so I moved it to 3/16 and then I had the proper clearance and everything worked great. I put everything back on and now the damn thing works great, one day I will understand these detectors but until I do I appreciate all the help that was given. By the way all the measurements were correct as far as the 8 1/2" during strike and the 1" @ 270.
              Once again thanks for all your help
              Drill
              Does this all make any sense or do I still have a problem?
              Drill

              David Bolt
              Champaign, IL
              USBC Silver Coach
              IBPSIA BOD
              IBPSIA Advanced
              Technical Certified
              Pro Shops

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: detector problem

                Drill:

                Glad it's ok now. The link from the new pin solenoid can cause problems, both if the loop is too tight interfering with the link's motion (causing your problem) and if it's too loose, it will jump in between the spring and the latch, causing constant second ball.

                Another thing is that I've seen the solenoid gets sticky and/or the pin from the plunger to the link gets hung up on the solenoid itself.

                Also, if the solenoid itself is adjusted too far rearward, you could get interference with the latch, the selector tries to push the latch, but can't get there, the selector at that point is essentially blocked from moving the latch to second ball, because the link won't allow it to go far enough.

                Kevin

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: detector problem

                  Yeah KL, what you said. That's what it was doing, it was trying to push the latch but couldn't push it far enough to make the switch into second ball. The odd thing was that it would just do it 2-3 times a night.
                  thanks
                  Drill
                  Drill

                  David Bolt
                  Champaign, IL
                  USBC Silver Coach
                  IBPSIA BOD
                  IBPSIA Advanced
                  Technical Certified
                  Pro Shops

                  Comment

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