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  • lubrication

    Okay..what do you use for lubricating your machines?I used to use just a straight 10-30 oil on things but then went to my own mix.I use 10-30 oil with an additive called.. Mystery Oil for a few simple reasons.(1)the normal oil(10-30)is fine but...in those close tolerance areas like detectors where the gaps are sooo small the oil would normally run off the parts and not down INTO the tiny openings so i did my mix thing.(2)the oil itself didnt seem to stay on the parts very long and the detector cams would get dry again.I am sort of a stickler for lubing my machines and wanted something better.I use in a normal oil can a mix of 75/25,oil and mystery oil additive,(you fine tune to your needs).The additive thins down the oil BUT leaves a film of protectant on surfaces of cams etc, that holds up a long time.It may seem odd but the machines really responded better to the mix versus just oil.It took some time to get it all worked into the parts but was well worth it.I didnt use say..slick50 due to its too sticky to me even though its slick.The mystery oil is real thin but protects surfaces better and cleans parts of old gummy build-up to free up the movements.All i can say is it woke my machines up and i dont have to lube things as much since it stays on better and gets INTO the parts.Regular oil just didnt cut it and i use the stuff on 24 lanes in one center and 40 in another.I know this is long but i thought you may be interested.Heck...everyone has their preferances right?

  • #2
    Re: lubrication

    I use a 90w gear oil, it stays where you put it. Use brake fluid for lubricating anything with rubber, It keeps it from swelling up so bad. and a clear lithium grease for my bearings and other areas. I think lubrication is one of the most important (and overlooked) areas of preventive maintenance.


    jerrid
    and then he said, "on your death bed, you will receive total consciousness" so I got that going for me...... which is nice!

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    • #3
      Re: lubrication

      You are right that 90w gear oil will stay where you put it.
      But be careful because heavy oil(the w is the weight of the oil) will tend to goop up.
      I always used a thinner oil (5w-30) on my pivots points due to the fact that I wanted the oil to penetrate the pivot point.
      The bronze oilite bearings are made to absorb some oil so it is a good idea to use thin oil to get the oil past the spacer and into the bushing.
      A good tip is to keep your spare oilite bushings soaked in oil in a metal parts cabinet because they will absorb oil and prolong their life.
      You can also put your bushings in a glad sandwich bag with some oil in it so it does not leak , but the bushings are still in an oil bath.
      These bushings are made to be oil impregnated so that as they wear out the shavings still have some oil in them to reduce wear.
      These are just my 2 cents worth but I am glad to hear that lubrication is important to other mechanics.
      I always found it dis-heartening to go into another center and see metal shavings on cams and pivot points!!!
      Lubrication is one of the MOST important aspects of preventive maint.
      Good luck to all during the winter leagues.

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      • #4
        Re: lubrication

        Exactly!Preventative maintenance is very important and can only prolong the lifespan of things.I like the idea of 90w gear oil! I use my mix since it thins down the oil yet,leaves a protective coating on cam surfaces and gets into those tiny spaces.Worked in a center that had NO lubing done,but after a rigorous maintenence program was started, the machines woke up and started to perform excellant.Nice to hear about your lubing ideas!!Good to see someone else does lubricating.

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        • #5
          Re: lubrication

          You'd think some mechanics were allergic to oil. I once worked at a center where it took a week just to free up idler pulley arms. I swear those machines hadn't seen oil or grease in 3 years. I use 30w for oiling, break fluid on rubber bushings, and white lithium for grease. The lithium doesn't seem to hold up as well as regular grease, but it sure ain't as nasty

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          • #6
            Re: lubrication

            I use regular 30 wt. motor oil. Except in the Detector assys. where I use ONLY WD-40..
            I have been doing this for 16 years...WD-40 does not collect dirt like motor oil does, a small blast to the detectors and triggering linkages once a week (we have an extremely busy house) will keep them running great.
            90 weight gear oil on detectors will kill them quickly, especially the older detectors with the toes rather than the roller bearings. Belt material, or pin particles or anything sticks to the motor oil, or gear oil as some of you use, especially after it gets gummy and sticky and destroys the cams and toes not to mention causes the levers and links to stick.

            [This message has been edited by Charles Heuer (edited 11-25-1999).]

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            • #7
              Re: lubrication

              Gentlemen:
              This whole discussion of lubricants, as pertaining to oillite bearings, has been throughly covered by Brunswicks early service bulletins, ie, circa 1958-1963. Oillite bushings are not turned out of billet stock, rather begin life as a powdered material,pressure formed, with oil, into final form. Only a addiditve free oil such as DTE is recommended for replenishing said oil, indeed, motor oil will only coat outside of such bushings, bearings, and require much more frequent lubrication. STP works great on three major cams, as long as rollers are lubed also, 90 weight is a great lub as long as no sintered bushings are involved, particularily the brass eccentric ring as it is billet stock, 90 weight is also good for any moving, metallic bearing, or pins in metal holes, as its designed for extreme pressures. Mixing up lubricants, and or solvents is risky, as in sufficants it can result in unknowns. Grease is only soap with a lubricant added. Most designed by an lubricant engineer, for a specific purpose. I'm not on a soapbox on this, only giving the benefit of 41 years of working and watching, try to solder a oilite sometime or better yet try to brase weld a broken clutch cam and watch the oil flow, it too is a sintered product. One thing I see more of is a felt cloth, soaked with oil, wrapped tightly over the stationary portion of the spring tube, with a tye wrap, and lightly wrapped over the moving, inner tube, keeps it looking great.
              Roscoe
              rfm

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              • #8
                Re: lubrication

                We've had felt wick material on the springtube for about 13 years. Great way to keep it lubed and cleaner, only we have it attached to the outer tube having overlap on the inner.

                [This message has been edited by gibh (edited 11-28-1999).]

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                • #9
                  Re: lubrication

                  This is for Midwest.. Sirs, I can understand using 90 wt gear oil on the rake sweep and moving deck scissors cam, but definately not on detectors. You did not address the detectors. What do you recommend using on these? Like I said, I have been using WD40
                  on them for the last 16 years. It keeps them clean and lubricated at the same time and does not attract the heavy dirt often found in the back end of a bowling alley. Ive found over the years that every head mechanic
                  is going to do his own thing, regardless of what anyone else says, this is just my thing.
                  Lubrication is one of those topics that mechanics will go on and on about. But the funny thing about it is most mechanics dont stay at one bowling center long enough to find out if their thing works best..LOL
                  Anyway, Happy lubricating to all......

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                  • #10
                    Re: lubrication

                    Charles:
                    Wrote an earlier note, but don't think it went through.
                    Didn't address WD-40 because I think its an excellent lub for detectors and clutch linkage, owing to the sintered bushings involved, one of the few lubs these types will absorb. Has the added benefit, as all sprays do, of removing debris from linkages. However don't reley upon the film strength, which is required for the timing and selector cams, very few lubs surpass gear oil for film strength, which its proof is in the fact that, more original A/2s loose a keyway in the 4to1 than gear teeth. Indeed most machine shops use gear oil on their puller threads, more so,than any of the more exotic lubs.
                    Roscoe
                    rfm

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                    • #11
                      Re: lubrication

                      Hi, Interesting topic and enjoyed reading the responses. I think that no matter what oil you are using it is much better then no oil. The idea of gear oil on cams and lighter weight on detectors and oilites seems good. One thought about WD-40. It does loosen up stuck parts very well but as for a permanent lub I am not sure. Could it be that it loosens up parts because it contains solvents which wash out the dirt. If so then where does the lubricating factor come in. Then again I have always operated with the notion that you cann't argue with success. So as stated WD-40 has been used for thirteen years by with great succcess. How can someone critize that. Jacks

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                      • #12
                        Re: lubrication

                        One thing I see more of is a felt cloth, soaked with oil, wrapped tightly over the stationary portion of the spring tube, with a tye wrap, and lightly wrapped over the moving, inner tube, keeps it looking great.
                        Roscoe[/quote]




                        works well thanks
                        Thank You All! For All the prayers and and the out pouring of good spirits in my time of need greatly appreciated!

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                        • #13
                          Re: lubrication

                          i use 30 weight oil with an additive.
                          anti seize with 30 weight oil works
                          well. shafts into oilites staye lubed longer
                          with the anti seize additive. anti sieze
                          is a paste that diezel mechs use to lube
                          ball joints on trucks. excellent with oil.
                          it attaches to the metal to form a graphite
                          type of film. this has reduced my daily ,weekly
                          and monthly lubes by at least 30%.

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                          • #14
                            Re: lubrication

                            what type of anti-sieze do you use?
                            Thank You All! For All the prayers and and the out pouring of good spirits in my time of need greatly appreciated!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: lubrication

                              Boy someone went way back for this one!
                              I'm going fishing and camping!

                              Comment

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