If you are seeing this you are not logged in to Bowl-Tech. Remove this notice by Registering or Logging in
By your continued use of this site you agree to the following.
You are over the age of 18, have had supervised training in safety and operations for the equipment you work on. Bowl-Tech does not warrant or guarantee the accuracy of information found on this site. Bowl-Tech, its officers and site Admins, Mentors and Guides will not be responsible in the case of losses financial or otherwise as a result of use of ANY information on this site. Posts on this site are allowed by registered members and each registered member is responsible for the content of their posts.
If you can not agree to any of these terms of use above or are not at least 18 years of age you are asked NOT to visit Bowl-Tech or utilize its content. To visit the Bowl-Tech Terms of Service and Rules CLICK HERE
Please join our community. It is easy and gives you additional access to forums and other tools. CLICK HERE to join
Ok boys...whats your preferance? When
you change you gearbox oil do you use...
gear oil or regular 10-30 oil?I prefer
gear oil,slows or stops any tiny
leaks.We are changing our gearbox oil
are we not? lol
I use 10-40 in my 20,000's w/the dashpot time delays, believe that the switch to 90w was made when the electronic TD's came out, cause the thick stuff just won't go through the dashpot right.
I use gear oil, as I have no dashpots. Gearoil in my opinion gives the gearbox better protection with less friction between the worm and bronze gear. As for leaks, I installed baby bottles under the gearbox drip pan, if bottle fills 1/2 full in 30 days I check for problem. Bottles are only 4oz. in size. Some other thoughts???
Definately Gear oil. I use a Heavy duty
90/140 made by Dri-Slide. This oil was recommended by BRC and Brunswick many years ago. I havn't seen any more writings on it by Brunswick. But I still use it with no problems. Dri-Slide says that this oil contains Molybdenum Disulfide which tends to settle slightly on the parts.
[This message has been edited by Charles Heuer (edited 01-03-2000).]
Dri-Slide says that this oil contains Molybdenum Disulfide which tends to settle slightly on the parts.
That was why I stopped using it. Didn't want to take the chance that internal damage would occur over time. I found some of that stuff that leaked out of a couple of seals and it was almost rock hard.
TSM & TSM Training Development
Main Event Entertainment
480-620-6758 for help or information
I use 10-40 in my 20,000's w/the dashpot time delays, believe that the switch to 90w was made when the electronic TD's came out, cause the thick stuff just won't go through the dashpot right.
Kevin
Kevin...I use 80-90W gear oil with dashpots. I have no issues with the oil. I have used it only in the southern states though...Florida, Texas and Arizona.
TSM & TSM Training Development
Main Event Entertainment
480-620-6758 for help or information
I see someone revived this old thread. I know we discussed this in a different thread, but when your back room temp is in the 40's or 50's, that 90w turns into jell-o.
My wife originally hails from Lake Placid, NY. Took my nissan (stick shift) up there at christmastime one year. It was -25 (yep, 25 BELOW) out. Went out in the morning, shake the stick to be sure it's in neutral, put clutch in, start engine (thought THAT was a minor miracle, but I digress). Let clutch out, motor STALLS. Had to start it again, tach it up to about 2500 and dump the clutch in NEUTRAL to get the transmission oil (goop) to break free.
I can see how it would never cause problems down south, but up here you'd be playing with needles every 6 months. Easier to run the lighter weight stuff ... although the thick stuff is better from the wear perspective.
90w. gear oil in Texas works well, never tried it with the dashpot however. For the mechs up north do you ever have problems with the rake shocks in cold weather? always wondered.
formerly dunsel
ITS NOT HOW MUCH YOU KNOW ITS HOW MUCH YOU CARE!!!!!
Wow...I guess we have discussed it before that statement. 2000...someone dug for this one... [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] right Mike? LOL
That is why I mentioned the southern states because I remebered we had discussed this somewhere before...or something. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
TSM & TSM Training Development
Main Event Entertainment
480-620-6758 for help or information
steve, i dug in 250 some odd pages for this thread. just got done changing oil in the boxes and wondered what people used. when you have questions, you search for answers. all hail bowltech! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
Why use a multigrade oil in the north? There is not enough heat generated in the gear box to bring it up to the 40 weight viscosity. Run a straight weight oil...like 30 or 40 weight.
TSM & TSM Training Development
Main Event Entertainment
480-620-6758 for help or information
I work on some nice old Brunswick A-2 pin setters. Most issues I've come across haven't been to problematic to figure out. But being I can't seem to get it to recreate the issue...
I’m a rookie mechanic and have been working on pinsetters for 2 years. One of my lanes has a problem with a sweep possibly coasting. I don’t know what could be causing it...
I was recently disheartened to learn that a bowling center that I once serviced was actively looking to replace their A2's. I understand that most military bases and educational...
Hello dear Bowltech members.
First let me say thank you for your time. am plagued by a big issue for three weeks now.
our technician is working full time on another...
One and a half year old GSX machines. This will be the 5th pivot bearing that has broke. This one decided to take out a few things with it. Snapped the stroke limiter shock stud...
Working...
X
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Tweet
Comment