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Model A pinsetter

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  • Model A pinsetter

    Hey guys!I have a 2 laner to take care of in a guys house soon,he has the original A setters,hockey stick style,.Powerlift he has broke a belt but...can you shed some light on major differances on these versus the rest of setters?Thankx!!

  • #2
    Re: Model A pinsetter

    Blackout:

    Main areas of difference, involve ball return track. pit cushion support system, the rake is controlled by a solid rod instead of a shotgun. They also have a gearbox overtravel, in that on first ball mch stops at zero, while second ball mch stops at 90 w/rake and deck up. This means weight of deck is on deck holding hook , while mch is waiting for a bowler, therefore, be warned, never get under a deck on second ball. This feature can easily be changed so that mch stops on 0 everytime. Triggers through linkage affixed to 7 side cushion support, which requires the cushion weight to be predominately on 10 side jacking bolt.
    Hope of some help to you.
    Good luck.
    Roscoe
    rfm

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    • #3
      Re: Model A pinsetter

      As roscoe said, primary differences are cushion mechanism, lack of shotgun, and ball tracks. Also, time delay accomplished with oil bleeder stem on 4/1, gearbox uses 10/40 motor oil instead of the 90w you put in your A-2's. See triggering below for elimination of this PITA.

      Another safety issue to be aware of is that if you set second ball using the common practice of pushing the detector latch forward, the gearbox will trip and machine will run to 90, be sure all body parts are out of harm's way, this common practice can get you bit if you aren't expecting the gearbox to engage.

      Best to put some type of electronic triggering on them if he'll spring for it, those trip rods can be a bitch to get right, and if he's got small kids, triggering is by reset button otherwise. If you use a triggering system that has time delay built in, remove dashpot stem and replace with short bolt to plug hole, you can then run 90w gear oil in them. Best to get a triggering system that has a solenoid hooked to the lever the uniball screws into, or you're going to replace reset solenoids on a frequent basis, they can't take triggering the machine constantly.

      I have an old "a" machine manual if you find there isn't one when you get there (some adjustments are different), and a couple of kits to get rid of the overtravel if you find you need them.

      Kevin

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      • #4
        Re: Model A pinsetter

        Oh how a remember hockey sticks. All I can say is they work. If possible changing to electronic triggering is a great idea. The gearbox housing cannot take the punishment where the rod hooks to the bell crank assy.
        the pin the bell crank rotates on will get loose and then sloppy. Afix it for this is to drill and tap a 1/4" hole for a bolt on top of the gearbox with a lock nut where the support pin goes into gearbox. Electronic triggering is the best.

        HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!

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        • #5
          Re: Model A pinsetter

          Larry:

          Pre 40.000s had a .060 in wall thickness starter bell crank stud, which was insufficient, later mdls, went to .090 wall, which proved to be reliable and is easily substituded.
          Roscoe
          rfm

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Model A pinsetter

            To add alittle to what Kevin said about the setting the machine to 2nd ball and having it cycle to 90, it can be done without the machine going to 90 on you, when the machine is just past 270 setting new pins, then it will stop when supposed to. If I'm not mistaken the electrical boxes are totally different than the a-2 also. Major difference.



            [This message has been edited by Gizzmo (edited 05-05-2000).]

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            • #7
              Re: Model A pinsetter

              Gizzmo:
              Only different, if they , the A2s are of Japanese provenance.
              Roscoe
              rfm

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Model A pinsetter

                Quote:]Originally posted by Midwest Pinsetter Service:
                Larry:

                Pre 40.000s had a .060 in wall thickness starter bell crank stud, which was insufficient, later mdls, went to .090 wall, which proved to be reliable and is easily substituded.
                Roscoe
                [/QUOTE]

                Roscoe my machines are 33k and 43k series. I had problem with both series. Although more problems with 33k. Thanks for info.

                Comment

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