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  • OOR kit

    I posted a thread quite awhile back about the OOR kits that I had a guy try and install for me without success. I only found a few pieces to the old ones so I ordered some more and want to know the easiest way to get these things to work. I don't know what the other guy did to mess things up but he is no longer here and everytime I have an OOR on 2 machines I have to hold back on the damn thing and manually engage it until the rake crank rod goes around twice and then let it go. I don't care about that right now but I would like to know the easiest way to install these things now that I have 4 new ones. I have the aluminum deck holding hooks as I remember someone asking what kind I had. These things sound like they have worked for everyone in the threads I have read and haven't even opened one of the new ones until I find out what to look for. My machines are 62,000 and field converted by Brunswick, I only have around 2 OOR's all night but there never seems to be any dead wood and if I can eliminate these 2 calls I will be around 0 for the night. To me they look pretty cheap as far as the material used but if it works I'm happy. If possible try and keep everything in layman terms, I can look at something wrong and correct it but to me the book gives 400 adjustments for each and every problem and once you change 1 you have to go back and change the other 400 you made.
    Thanks
    Drill
    Drill

    David Bolt
    Champaign, IL
    USBC Silver Coach
    IBPSIA BOD
    IBPSIA Advanced
    Technical Certified
    Pro Shops

  • #2
    Re: OOR kit

    If you're talking about the quality (Mulbro)ones, here are a few notes that should help out:

    1) Be sure your hook selector bearing is in good shape.

    2) Be sure your detector rod adjustment (and deck leveling is right, e.g A/P sees OOR between 2-3 pin, 7-8 and 9-10. Stabilizer rod ends are usual culprit if it won't see all corners after tweaking the detector rod. While this may sound DUMB, if it won't stop for an OOR under normal conditions, it will sweep the spare leave when the kit's installed, and I've seen the kit get blamed for it

    3) Check the condition of the link between the sweep hook and the bellcrank that controls it, excessive play here can create problems when you adjust the link from the detector to the cross shaft collar. Specifically, if you have to remove play in the sweep hook link using the detector linkage, you will not have proper clearance (free play) between the cross shaft collar and the sweep hook bellcrank at 180, causing the machine to break hook selector bearings.

    With all that said, installation is simple, replace the one detector mounting bolt with the new one supplied, shim the mounting location with the correct number of washers to make the new latch engage the hook selector pin properly, put a washer on the back side, and install locknut.

    Don't tighten the locknut very far, just enough to make it not flop in the breeze, it needs to move freely. And then tell your chaser NOT to tighten that nut W/O you looking at it first ... some of mine seemed to tighten all by themselves until I had that discussion

    Install the rear end of the assembly to the OOR controller, and adjust the screw for proper clearance between the new latch and the hook selector as per instructions.

    In a few cases, I've had to take a round bastard file and create a slight rounded lip on the latch to make sure she stays engaged through the cycle, exception rather than rule, though.

    The next time roscoe drops by, I'm sure he'll have a few other tips/clarifications on what I've said:

    Kevin

    [This message has been edited by KL Kevin (edited 09-25-2000).]

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    • #3
      Re: OOR kit

      Are these OOR kits really worth installing?

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      • #4
        Re: OOR kit

        Larry:

        The answer to that depends on how much of an issue sliding pins are in your center. In here, with synthetic pindecks and running a phoenix/s with defense oil, respots/oor's are actually my #1 and 2 trouble calls by FAR. At least if the OOR doesn't require clearing deadwood, the kit saves a call.

        Also we don't have anyone down back during open play, and that's generally when most sliders happen, after the league has carried oil down onto the decks. Customer doesnt have to wait when one happens. If you still have wood decks (and less sliders), they might not be as much of a benefit.

        Kevin

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        • #5
          Re: OOR kit

          Larry:
          Install a pair on the mchs in front of desk, IE the highest linage mchs in any house,guarantee you will install the rest within a year. One great mod.
          Roscoe
          rfm

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: OOR kit

            Kevin
            I run the same lane machine and oil as you. I also have synthetic lanes. My or's are around 3 per day, I used to have about 8-9 per day. I have noticed them dropping since starting to use PA st-21 cleaner. When I tape the lanes the back ends are also cleaner than when using defense cleaner. I'm using the same ratio of water and cleaner as when using defense cleaner. I do know cleaners will make a difference in total lane cleaning.

            [This message has been edited by Larry (edited 09-28-2000).]

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