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  • Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

    (OLD = formed steel clapper - NEW = cast steel clapper)

    Ok, This is giving me fits..

    A couple of years ago, we had the lift rods break on one lane (old style). I ordered a new on from Bruns. My question is this...

    Is there a trick to adjusting these new ones?
    I've had balls getting stuck out the ying-yang with these ever since I put them on. The old style could be shimmed in or out with washers, but not these. I just got through rebuilding this one (for the 6th time) with no luck. (got a call a while ago that the balls were sticking almost every time. I did everything like I always have. I've tried kickers, SBE's, springs hanging everywhere, and new covering. Had MUCH less problems before these were installed.

    Is there any company that still makes the old style? Think I like them ALOT better.

    This is a Bruns A-2 style BR system. Have tried on other machines..problem follows.

    PLEASE HELP (before I lose my mind [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif[/img] )

    BTW..I'm not trying to start a war, just venting my frustration and asking for help.

    Thanks,
    Adam D.

    [ March 13, 2001: Message edited by: BrunsAce ]
    <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>

  • #2
    Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

    oops

    [ March 13, 2001: Message edited by: BrunsAce ]
    <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

      Hey Adam, Is it an A-2 style return ao an A machine? If it is I dont think it will work because the A style are longer because the track support and spring rod hole used to hang off the frame of the cross conveyor. Our machines are 15 years old and some of the clappers are shimmed. But only on the skinny shaft. Check the fat shaft for wear. Maybe it is just too worn out. I dont know the part # but Brunswick sells a kit just for that reason. Try changing the spring rod too if its worn its hard to get the lift rods to stay lined up with the ball wheel. I'm having a hard time convincing the boss that we need to get some clapper bushings and spring rods.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

        A-2 style lift rods...BR system is A-2 also with the old A mounting point cut off.

        The small shaft is the one I USED to could shim, but not on the new ones.

        These are converted jetbacks...

        [ March 13, 2001: Message edited by: BrunsAce ]
        <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

          Well what I would try to do is adjust the spring rod to compensate for the forward or aft slop you seem to have. Then raise the clapper box high enough so a ball will just go under with a little bit of drag of bottom of the lift rods. If you cant get enough adjustment out of the set screw provided and still tighten the jam nut then put a longer screw or bolt in it so you can raise it higher. Thats about all I can think of. Besides that I have a very vague idea of how a jet back is different from a straight A or an A-2. Hope this helps you. William

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

            There is no slop in the assy. I just rebuilt it. I have adjusted the spring all over the place with no luck. Thanks anyway William..

            BTW..I see you're from El Paso. Have you ever been to Midland? I lived there from '81 - '90. It's nice here in Alabama , but I really miss West Texas if you know what I mean. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

            [ March 14, 2001: Message edited by: BrunsAce ]
            <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

              OK I'll ask the dumb question...where is the ball getting "stuck"? Halfway up the lift rods? At the top of the lift rods? Under the front elbow? In the pin wheel?

              Steve
              TSM & TSM Training Development
              Main Event Entertainment
              480-620-6758 for help or information

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                Define stuck for us:

                I have one set of rods with the 1/4" plate steel clapper. That one works best when it's set REALLY high relative to the cast blocks of days gone by, as the block itself doesn't measure the same as the cast ones do ...

                If it's a problem with balls not getting into the rods, and the front rod has a urethane cap on it, try putting a piece of the self-adhesive kicker strip on the contact point where the ball starts to pick up, I have seen both styles of rod (cast and formed blocks) where the ball will bounce off the front rod contact point because the urethane is too hard to grab the ball (more so with light balls), and the kicker is soft enough to catch it so the next ball wheel kicker sends it right up.

                So, which problem is it???

                Kevin

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                • #9
                  Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                  Oops..Sorry I wasn't specific.

                  Spinning at the bottom is the main problem.
                  Have tried the kicker on the cap. Worked great for about a week, but I don't want to have to change it all the time either.

                  Ok..It's like the bottom rail is offset too much toward the ball wheel, or is too low. If I adjust it any higher, it can't grab the cap. Sure wish I could shim it back like the older ones. Out of all the older ones, I average maybe 3 ball calls a night out of all of them, but on this one, maybe 3 an hour.

                  This has been driving me nutty for almost 2 years, and until recently (BowlTech) I had no one to turn to. Thanks to everyone who has helped me in the past, and those who are helping me now. I REALLY appreciate it!!!

                  Thanks again..
                  Adam D [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
                  <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                    I hope this isnt one of those clappers with the spring loaded studs!! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]

                    Ed
                    Please buy MADE IN USA!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                      Clap on. Clap off. The Clapper.
                      Sorry, I couldn't resist. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                        Adam:

                        Measure the distance between the two rods at the next bend after the pick-up point. Compare that distance to the other machines. Odds are it's going to be too narrow (take into account the thickness of the covers if they are different). If so, take an old junk pit shaft (everyone's got one laying around) and put it right where the rear rod comes out of the clapper (behind the part that comes out of clapper and in front of the bottom of the rod) , and CAREFULLY bend the rear rod back until you get the clearance the same.

                        That's our shim kit in "cast iron" houses [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                        Kevin

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                          Thanks Kevin!

                          I tried that once, but I was afraid I'd break something. It seemed to help a little. I'll try it again, and this time I'll give it a good shove. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

                          BTW...Thanks for the call Ed.. I'll let ya know when we're ready for a tank heater.
                          <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                            Adam:

                            It does take a fair amount of force. I usually try to "bounce" it into place e.g. push and release several times, as the rod has some "spring" to it, and doesn't respond quite as easily to steady pressure. Shove on it a few times, then check the measurement, repeat until you get her near where the other rods are.

                            Kevin

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Ball Lift Rods Old vs New

                              okay guys what do you think we are? a bunch of second-rate mechanics? we're all professionals here....right?we don't bend anything! we simply alter the current pysical structure of a particular item [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                              i would agree with kevin on this one...as usual. try "altering" the lift rods. i does take some force but it's not impossible. i'm sure it is possible to break them. but i hate to think of how much it would take to break them.

                              alex
                              Conditioner: Pantene Pro-V Brunette Expressions with Color Enhancer
                              Cleaner: Fabuloso Spring Fresh with Bleach Alternative
                              Cloth: ShamWow!
                              Machine: Johnny 5
                              Surface: Melamine-impregnated, phenolic-treated, high pressure pressed craft paper

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