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Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

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  • Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

    At our center, we are wanting to lube up the oilite bearings on the pit idler assembly. Evidently, they had not been touched in years. The bolt that mounts the assembly is seized. I am unable to work it loose. So, what is the best or easiest way to remove this stubborn bolt?

    Thanks guys,

    Joey

  • #2
    Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

    grind,beat&heat!!!!!!good luck!laze [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

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    • #3
      Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

      Joe, I have had some that I soaked for days and they wouldnt break loose. I ended up cutting them out with a saw-zall on the in side of the brackets. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif[/img]

      Ed
      Please buy MADE IN USA!

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      • #4
        Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

        Ditto the "HEAT AND BEAT" ... Don't try an impact gun ... BTDT, head will just snap off.

        Sawzall would work, but if you heat bolt head with a propane torch (keep extinguisher close by) it will usually come out. Keep the nut on it a few threads while you're beating, just in case.

        Quality now makes a nylon replacement for the steel spacer, I use them exclusively now, cures this PITA permanently:

        Kevin

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        • #5
          Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

          Those can be a pain indeed..

          Once you get them out, re assemble them with the nut towards the rear of the machine. It is a lot easier to get to should it seize up again.
          <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>

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          • #6
            Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

            Joe,

            I leave the nut on the end of bolt and strike the bolt until it is close to the mounting bracket. Remove nut and drive the bolt out with a punch. Sometimes using nut buster or WD-40 helps ....

            hope this is helpful

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            • #7
              Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

              Joe
              I agree there is no easy way to remove this problem bolt.
              Heating up will work and a sawz all is better than the way I used to do it ,which was with a hack saw through the bolt inside the bracket.
              One thing to remember if you free this bolt up and start to oil the pivot point is to KEEP up the oiling because stopping it seems to make the bolt want to sieze up.
              I did not oil mine.
              I went to an auto parts store and bought tubes of ANTI-SIEZE.
              Then when replacing the bolt I loaded up the bolt and the inside of the spacer with anti-sieze and it would come back out later.
              I also had those old style sweep arms that hold on the rake board.
              I removed all the bolts and re-tapped them and used anti-sieze on them also, made it SO much easier to take off a rake board years later.
              Graham
              I learned of anti-sieze from exhaust manifolds, if those bolts can come out easy after years of that heat and conditions there must be a place I could use it on a pinsetter.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                Anti-sieze is a super time saver.I
                have been using it for years now on
                just about every nut &amp; bolt,when it
                comes time to remove something it's
                alot easier!Also have done a few
                complete turret rebuilds with it
                and i have yet to lube the parts i
                have used it on,no additional
                lubings as of yet have been needed
                and all runs great and is a time
                saver.(i still look at things on a
                check up basis)I don't use it in
                detectors only good ole oil.Has'nt
                gummed up or attracted any extra
                dirt.Use it on such things
                as...blocking fingers,c-levers,m/d
                cam followers,ball wheel
                shafts(lowers)and upper u-bolt
                nuts,l/r bushings,rake sweep
                pivots,deck roller x-pins,pin gate
                assys(x-pins).I can spend less time
                doing the mundane oilings knowing
                the anti-seize is there working for
                me and concentrate on more
                things.Remember...you still need to
                check on things but so far no
                problems have come up.A little goes
                a long way. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                  Mr. Fish:
                  Agree with all posts, that this bolt is problamatic, worse than that, its a big Bitc?
                  Best luck I have is to soak it with WD-40, a day prior to attempted removal, leave all belts on, and set screw tension tight to ensure no movement of drive arm while trying to remove bolt. If bolt will not turn, put a 3/8 all thread coupling nut on bolt,leaving it approx, 1/4" loose, (1/4" THREADS, FROM TIGHT.) use a 1/2 in punch in your impact hammer, and drive it out.
                  Usually once you have moved it a 1/4" back it will free up.
                  Never drive on the bolt, it will only rivet it, preventing removal.
                  One must be careful not to change position of the welded flanges, or bad ball wheel belt alignment will result, indeed this misalignment is what causes ball wheel belts to ride off of wheel at 7 side guide roller position. Once arm is off, use a 3/8 socket head allen bolt to drive old spacer out.
                  (back up bronze bushing with a 5/8" ID spacer, to ensure no damage to bushing).
                  Never put back a steel spacer, use only the nylon that K.L. Kevin alluded to, ie the Quality #12-3150.
                  As an aside, impact hammers have become quite resonable in price, I consider it a vital part of my traveling tool kit, as they will jar loose many rusted parts simply thru the viberation in conjunction with a lubricant.
                  If bolt is already riveted, use the method Mr. Ed Fox suggested, however I would bet he does not ROFLHAO, when he comes upon those.
                  Roscoe.
                  rfm

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                    Ahh yes...the pit idler mounting bolt. I had to get one out by using a hack saw blade. Quality makes a nylon spacer instead of the metal ones so the bolt doesn't freeze up inside. The head mech that I work for has been installing these as we clean out the pit conveyor area. Best of luck.....

                    Brandon Adams
                    Imperial and Twin Oaks Lanes
                    Toledo, Ohio

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                      anti- seize, i love it!!!!!!!!! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                        Hey Roscoe
                        I take it when you mean you will "rivet"the bolt you mean you are going to mushroom the threads so it will not go through the hole?
                        I never thought of soaking it over night.
                        I learned it was such a pain in the you know what to remove this bolt that if I had the dual pulley bearings go bad I could save time by removing the upper shaker frame and rear pit mount tier and rebuild the unit still froze up.
                        I would then go back and hack saw it out and install with the anti-sieze.
                        As far as the new nylon conversion kit.
                        I saw it in the catalog and thought it was a great idea.
                        How is it holding up over time?
                        Does the nylon spacer wear out quicker causing the idler arm to lean to one side wearing out the bracket?
                        Or possibly effect belt tracking?
                        I never tried them because once I used anti-sieze I could use my parts budget on other things.
                        Graham

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                          Graham:

                          Been using the nylon ones since they first came out ...

                          As roscoe said, more likely to get belt tracking problems by distorting the mounting bracket beating the livin shytt outta a frozen one. Have dismantled one or two with the nylon bushing, no noticeable wear ... but the drive doesn't really ever move unless the allen to tension the pit belt gets loose as belt stretches, so they should last a long time:

                          Kevin

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                          • #14
                            Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                            I used a 'c' clamp designed for 'u' joints. this clamp has a hole on one side for the head of the bolts and a regular base on the other end. Just screw the threaded end and out it comes. If you cannot find one use a large clamp with a spacer over the head of the bolt end and press the bolt out.
                            Works for me.
                            bye [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif[/img]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Pit Idler Mounting Bolt

                              I have had the same problem. I used alot of wd-40, heat and pounding to get them free. Usually spray wd40 for a couple of days turning the bolt to work it in.

                              Comment

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