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  • TRANSITION TRACK COVERING

    HEY GUYS I ORDERING A COUPLE TRANSITION TRACK COVERINGS AND I WAS EXPECTING THEM TO BE LEATHER. BUT WHEN THEY CAME IN THEY WERE MADE OUT SOME KIND OF PVC MATERIAL. THEY LOOK KIND OF LIKE THE GREY STRAP ON CUSHION FACINGS. BUT THE PROBLEM IS I CANT GET THEM TO STAY GLUED DOWN I USED CONTACT CEMENT AND I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM GLUING ANYTHING ELSE BUT THEY JUST WONT STAY GLUED DOWN. THE LAST TIME I TRYED I LEFT THEM CLAMPED DOWN OR NIGHT BUT DIDNT DO ANY GOOD. NOW THE GLUE IS DRYING FINE ON THE METAL BUT THE COVERING WONT STAY DOWN AFTER THE GLUE HAS DRYED ON THE METAL I CAN MOVE THE COVERING AROUND AND PULL IT RIGHT UP BUT LIKE I SAID THE GLUE IS DRYING FINE ON THE METAL BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM TO BE DRYING ON THE PVC MATERIAL. HAVE ANY OF YOU GUYS HAD THIS PROBLEM. THANKS JOHN

  • #2
    Re: TRANSITION TRACK COVERING

    John:

    Haven't seen one of those myself, but my thought is that if it's a plastic part, it may have some type of mold release compound on it to make it come out of the mold when it was made. NOTHING sticks to mold release compounds [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

    I'd try wiping it down with some type of solvent to remove the release compound. You'll know right away if it worked, it should make the surface a lot less slippery:

    Kevin

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    • #3
      Re: TRANSITION TRACK COVERING

      John, are you applying the glue to both surfaces?

      Charlie [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
      Please buy MADE IN USA!

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      • #4
        Re: TRANSITION TRACK COVERING

        That mold release lube sounds like the truth to me. Wipe it clean to start.
        Perhaps you could scuff the bottom side with some Scotch Brite or ather abrasive to give that surface some "bite".
        Plan C is the shop-rag-zip-tie method. Who needs mass produced parts anyway?

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        • #5
          Re: TRANSITION TRACK COVERING

          Heya!

          That almost sounds like a urethane part. Hopefully it isnt. You might try scuffing up the surface of the cover to get it nice and rough before trying to glue it again.

          Not sure if they make a urethane adhesive, so hopefully its some other material.

          Wookie

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          • #6
            Re: TRANSITION TRACK COVERING

            We have tried the urethane transition tracks with out good results. We prefer the leather transition. You might want to try the quality 38-3400 contact cement applied to both surfaces and let dry to the touch before applying the two together.

            Distributors will a lot of times do not listen to mechanics input. New is not always better! Sometimes new is cheaper but doesn’t always yield the best results. Leather has worked for years don’t stop a good thing. (I don’t think there is a shortage of leather) But with everything else going over seas it just might be.

            Doug

            [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]

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            • #7
              Re: TRANSITION TRACK COVERING

              I have a feeling you are not applying it to both sides, anytime I use contact cement you have to coat everything and then let it set for around 15 minuets and then slap it together. I have some of the ones your refering to and although they're not as good as the leather they do stay glued pretty well.

              Drill
              Drill

              David Bolt
              Champaign, IL
              USBC Silver Coach
              IBPSIA BOD
              IBPSIA Advanced
              Technical Certified
              Pro Shops

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