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oor wont go in to second ball

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  • oor wont go in to second ball

    first off i would like to say hi to all my brunswick brothers! i've found my home! after many years of working nights i am finally a head mechanic. my machines serial number's are #1320 you think your machines are old huh? my electrical box'es look like a monkey on acid preparing spaghetti with an eggbeater was working on them, but thats not my problem yet. i added the out of range elimination kits on my machines and i have one lane that after an oor it will not go into second ball, i've adjusted the detector rod till i was blue in the face no luck, the rod's roll pins are correct, it does not appear to be bent, and the threads are almost all the way up in the part that the rod threads into, can someone help or am i yanking a detector?
    thanks
    bruce

  • #2
    Re: oor wont go in to second ball

    Heya,

    I have the OOR kits too. I call them the AUTO O/R. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
    Anyhow, the detector rod is the key. Check the upper rod pivot (pinned to the detector disk), it is probably touching/holding the lever right above it in the detector. (If I was really good I would know the correct name for the part.)

    You will have to thread the detector rod up into the upper link, to move the top of the pivot away from the detector lever.
    This will lower the TOP of the detector rod.

    Double check your detection after doing this.

    You also may need to remove the rod by unthreading it from the upper link, and cut off some threads, if there isn't enough room left to turn it up into the upper pivot link. If you do this, leave the jam nut on the threaded part, so you can back it off and clean the threads out after cutting. So far, I havent needed to do this part yet.

    Good luck,
    Wookie

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: oor wont go in to second ball

      Bruce:

      What is the machine doing exactly, sweeping the oor and attempting to re-spot, dumping 10 pins with the deck on the hook, or something else??

      Several factors come into play: The condition of the hook selector bearing, whether the machine is actually detecting an OOR in the first place, the OOR kit latch not staying in, and the cross brace latch getting in at the wrong time.

      Things to look at:

      Is the hook selector bearing in good shape? A cracked/broken bearing will make the adjustment difficult at best, and sometimes impossible.

      Does the machine actually see an OOR condition?? If the actuator did not move forward to black the machine out (judging by your serials, you had the microswitches to do this) or stop the clutch, before you put the kit on, the kit won't work right. As wookie said, you might have to cut a few threads off of the rod to get it in far enough.

      The FIRST part of the detector rod adjustment (clearance between the detector disk and the OOR selector) is critical to the kit working right.

      Check the play in the link between the rake sweep bellcrank and the sweep hook, over the years, the link and its roll pins tend to wear out, making the adjustment of the link between the detector and the cross brace collar touchy. (You should do this across the house, as I had one machine that would break hook selector bearings from lack of free play in the mechanism with the rake at 180, the bellcrank was transferring force to the selector bearing and cracking it) At 180, you should be able to move the bellcrank slightly away from the cross brace collar, if it's jammed up, you'll start to toast bearings.

      Does the new oor latch move freely?? If it has even the slightest bind in it, weird stuff can happen. Better to leave the locknut a touch sloppy.

      Does the latch get in and out smoothly, and actually stay in? Sometimes you do need to file the latch slightly to get it to work right.

      Last item for now... After putting in the kit, I flipped up the latch on the cross brace so that it couldn't engage the roll pin, and later removed it all together. It can make you think your link between the detector and the cross brace isn't adjusted right, or make a bad adjustment look good:

      Happy hunting:

      Kevin

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: oor wont go in to second ball

        thanks for the replies guy's, the machine detects pins and strikes and as far as i can tell it is also detecting oor, the lever moves back and the kit block's out the rake, but when it comes up after the out of range it stays in first ball, today i cut the rod and turned it all the way up into the end on the detector, still happening, but i just read kevins post and will look thru that stuff tomm, although i did check the roll pins and that latch is up or off i ferget and those damn hook selector's are original and are solid and the bearings are good. and yes they did have the micro switches to black it out, am i wrong or were those already obselete by 1958? thats when my manual was printed and it doesnt show them.
        kevin, wookie, thanks again for the replies
        hey wookie
        may 2002 AOTC

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: oor wont go in to second ball

          Freedomnot:
          Replace the bushing in the second ball controller, whats happening is, on out of range, the second ball signal is coming in, with the deck up on holding hook, same as a strike signal on second ball. When the bushings in controller wear it allows the nose of controller to move to the seven pin side and interfere with the detector disk. This is offered with the previous suggestions in mind, try limiting the upward position of the disk first.
          Let us all know the results, as its a common problem.
          Roscoe.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: oor wont go in to second ball

            roscoe, that very well may be it, but I have no detector manual, a part number would help I have a schematic book, but my manual is original 1958 and the separate detector manual didn't last.(anything on-line?) but to be honest this one is going on the back burner. we had our first league tonight, and I took over as head mechanic from some 15 year old, these "a's" are tanks but they have been seriously neglected, loose gutters unaligned elec eyes, if it is attached to the moving deck with a bolt, it is either loose or broke! you get the idea, I have to turn the corner on all the b.s. before I'll get back to this, and I will post when I find it.
            yes I did say leagues have started...Detroit bowling [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif[/img]
            bruce

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