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  • Gearbox problem

    Okay, this is a first for me. Got called to lane 10 for a 90 stop. When I got there the pinsetter motor was overloaded. I could not see anything obvious except the rake was unlatched. I relatched that and tried to run the machine back up by hand. I can't raise the machine higher that about 70 degrees. When I got the motor to restart the machine cycled to 135 degrees and the gearbox locked up. I'm thinking that possibly something has broken in the 2 to 1. Anyone have any ideas. I don't have a spare 2 to 1 and I don't want to waste time taking apart something that may not be the problem. Fortunately I don't need the lanes until Saturday.

    Thanks in advance for any help!

  • #2
    Re: Gearbox problem

    DOES THE INPUT GROWL IF IT DOES THEN ITS THE MAIN BEARING ON THE INPUT SHAFT GOOD LUCK J B

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    • #3
      Re: Gearbox problem

      Open up the oil filler cap and back the machine up from the "froze up" spot. Look in with a flashlight. More than likely you will see gold colored shavings.........the sign of a bronze gear gone bad on the 4:1.

      billman
      let me be myself

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      • #4
        Re: Gearbox problem

        I agree with Billman and I also had the same problem a number of years ago . You have a bad 4to1.

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        • #5
          Re: Gearbox problem

          I drained the gearbox and there was nothing unusual looking about the oil. There were no broken teeth in the oil, bronze or otherwise. The oil was very clean, nothing on the magnet on the drain plug. I don't have much choice except to start with the 4 to 1. This should be fun, since it's been about 5 years since I did my last one.

          Thanks

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          • #6
            Re: Gearbox problem

            Sorry to hear about your problem. It does sound like your worm wheel has had too much metal shaved off of it. The quickest way to tell is to remove the worm shaft and take a peek inside the gearbox. You will be able to remove the worm shaft with the gearbox at 90 degrees if you remove the scissor spring on the back of the deck. I would recommend removing any standing pins and do all your work with no pins standing, this will put the weight of the deck on the deck lowering hook. The deck will hold the gearbox at 90 degrees and will prevent the worm shaft from trying to fly out at you.
            If you decide to remove the 4:1 at this point, the deck will still hold the rest of the gear box in place while you rebuild your 4:1. Just mark the rake crank arm with some white out and mark the 4:1 casing (actually the bolted on ring right next to the rake crank arm) After rebuilding your 4:1, install it so your marks line up and your timing will not have changed. If you have any questions, a quick phone call will get you back on track.
            602-249-1715
            Good Luck...
            TSM & TSM Training Development
            Main Event Entertainment
            480-620-6758 for help or information

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            • #7
              Re: Gearbox problem

              I agree it sounds like your 4 to 1. There is nothing much to a 2 to 1. Its just a gear. Most of the workings is on the outside of the gear box. I have only changed a 2 to 1 one time in 15 years and it was a bad bearing which wore out the stud. The bronze gear in the 4 to 1 is sometimes deceiving because it can be wore out enough not to work but its hard to see with the naked eye until its all the way out.

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              • #8
                Re: Gearbox problem

                Proberly is the 4:1,but I would like to add since we are talking about gearbox locking up.....I have seen a bad spring guide tube spring break and lock up a gearbox before. Good luck in your findings. Please post back what you find.

                Peanut
                Peanut

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                • #9
                  Re: Gearbox problem

                  Thanks everyone! The problem is solved. It was the bronze gear on the 4 to 1 that was bad. When I pulled it out there were about 15 teeth sheared off. The inside of the gearbox looked like bronze confetti everywhere. I did find a new trick (new to me anyway), that made reassembly easier. I screwed a couple of studs into the gearbox to support the 4 to 1 when I put it back in. It sure made lining everything back up a lot easier. I had to take it apart at 90 degrees so JBEES advice was appreciated.

                  Once again, Thanks! [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]

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