Adding mechanics bypass switch

[russ]

The machines that I am currently working on (and do they ever need a lot of work) have only one on/off switch at the rear of the wire channel, but the ones at the other center I work at have a rear bypass switch so that you can turn on the machine from the back.
Does anyone know what is involved in adding the second switch, and where it is wired to?
(I'm too busy/lazy to rip apart a wire channel and trace the wires myself).
It's getting to be a real PITA to yell up to the front counter every time I waant power to a lane.

Thanks in advance for your help

Russ

[Steve Stafford (JBEES)]

Re: Adding mechanics bypass switch

Russ...This is actually a very easy fix if you don't mind pulling a cable through your wire channel. You may get lucky and not have to do that...most machines that don't have the switch wired on the machine had wires running to the rear of the machine for a light. Look on page 171 index number X122. They are obsolete items now...but the wires are more than likely still there. Find a pair of unused wires and use them. What the actual numbers for the wires are in the light circuit, I don't remember, but I can find out for you. But assuming you have a pair of wires to use either because you found these two I'm talking about or because you ran a pair of wires...proceed as follows. Attach one wire to wire 18. This wire attaches in two places...one place is on the coil of the motor start relay (point G) and the other is connector "C" of the managers control cable cannon plug. (CN3) You can use a tap connector and splice right into the wire at the cannon plug or you can solder a wire to the coil of the motor start relay. Be sure you get the proper side of the coil or you will blow fuses. I prefer the tap connector version myself. The other wire you need is wire 17. This wire loops between the managers control cable cannon plug (yes...same one as before) connector "B" and the masking unit cannon plug (CN5) connector "B". This is best done using the same method as the other wire...tap connectors. That is why I prefer the tap connector because the two wires are right next to each other and you need to use one on this wire...might as well do them both the same way. Makes it easy and quick. Just connect the ends of the wires to the switch you install at the back of the machine.

I have even installed a switch on the back of the electrical box in the lower right hand corner just below the terminal strip. This is for machines with the electrical boxes that open towards the back of the machine. S/N 18812 and up will be this way. This switch allows you to turn the machine on/off while working on the front of the machine. Just a little thing to add if you're bored and have nothing else to do...yeah, right...as if any of us have that kind of time . I add the switch only if I'm already working in the electrical box doing some rewiring, adding a circuit breaker, installing a bridge rectifier instead of the selenium style or doing some needed repair. You never know when an extra switch will come in handy. This switch is added the same way as the switch you are thinking of adding. Quick and easy...takes about 5 minutes to install. The hardest thing to do is drilling the hole. Good luck...