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Worm Shaft


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  • Worm Shaft

    Hello: I'm a mechanic at a 16 lane A-2 center with scotch yokes. I have a question about worm shafts. I have never removed 1, I don't have any bad right now, I was just wondering for the future. Is there an easy or fast way to take 1 out, if so do I need any special tools to do so ?

    Thanks wags

  • #2
    Re: Worm Shaft

    There are two tools that make the job lots easier, a small spanner-style wrench for the spring seat retaining nut, and a spline wrench to hold the worm shaft stable when you're removing the nut.

    Safest way to remove worm is with machine down at 270, setting new pins. I say this because when you remove the worm, the machine can jump unless the weight of the deck is fully down, and the 2/1 keeps the machine from going anywhere.

    Pull power and remove all clutch parts. The retaining nut is now visible, usually there's one tang of the lockwasher bent over holding it in which must be punched clear. Use the spanner and spline wrench to remove the nut and spring seat. Undo the 4 allens that hold the worm retaining plate to the gearbox and remove it and the oil seal components. You should now be able to turn the worm in reverse to back it out of the gearbox. If it's stubborn, i usually climb on top of the machine and step down on the 4/1 crank with my foot, that will pop even the most stubborn ones free:



    • #3
      Re: Worm Shaft


      Be careful when re installing the retaining nut. The treads are really fine and easy to cross thread. I have the tool sold by brunswick to start the nut. This tool also helps speed things up by eliminating the need to bent the tang up on the locking ring. Just place the nut tool on the nut, and the spline wrench on the shaft. The nut tool has a place for a 1 1/8" wrench. Hold the shaft steady, and turn the tool with a wrench. This will bend (or break) the tang. If you don't have a replacement locking washer, then you shouldn't even be trying to take it apart. I ALWAYS replace the washer.

      When it comes time to remove the shaft, do as Kevin said above, however use caution when pressing down on the 4-1. You can damage the brass gear if you press too hard.

      When re installing the shaft, make sure that you install a new O-ring, and position the spacer correctly. It has a notch on one end for the O-ring. (I have found them installed backwards)

      Worms arent really that hard to replace(got one to do tomorrow), just take your time and be safe.
      <span style="font-style: italic">Sometimes it is best to use good advice from many individuals to achieve the ultimate result.</span>


      • #4
        Re: Worm Shaft

        I used to do worm removal at 270 but went to doing it with the deck weight resting on all 10 standing pins,that's how i rebuild all my gearbox clutches and normally i am right on with the clutch adjusment after installing things.
        Don't you have to put some 2x4's under the deck before removing the worm at 270 or the deck will drop down a bit?
        A bowling service showed me the worm thing on standing pins years ago. one to do myself soon,she's a leaking at the seal.,and the bearing is starting to whine.
        Use what you have to,to get it through the shift then fix it right.Do it right and live through the night...Safety first!


        • #5
          Re: Worm Shaft

          I concur with having the deck sitting on pins. Takes all the weight and pressure off. I position the deck as such for all operations on either the clutch or any lowering apperatus.

          Space is the Place!


          • #6
            Re: Worm Shaft

            I have changed close to 67 worm shafts...have tried different ways, I like doing them at 270 setting new pins. If i have to use more than a "hand push" on the 4:1 spit out shaft, I use an old clutch drive disc to put on thr worm shaft and use it as a slide hammer.
            Make sure there are no burrs on the housing and the worm shaft spacer when reinstalling.Worm shaft should push and screw right in.



            • #7
              Re: Worm Shaft

              Placing the deck assy on 2X4's will accomplish nothing. If you put the machine at 270 setting new pins...the deck is as low as it can possibly go. The only way it can go lower is if something off of the 2:1. I personally change them at that spot.

              I would also mention that if you are going to use the 4:1 to remove the worm shaft, be careful when stepping on the crank arm. If the worm shaft "pops" out, it may actually fly out and land on the floor...pretty much trashing the unit. You may want someone to give you a hand doing it that way. I use the slide hammer method to remove stubborn shafts. Masternut metioned that method above...its the easiest and safest way I know of.
              TSM & TSM Training Development
              Main Event Entertainment
              480-620-6758 for help or information


              • #8
                Re: Worm Shaft

                I have never understood why the threads for the retaining nut are cut into the splines. Long ago at another center, I didn't have the tool to align the nut. I cross threaded it and messed up the threads. I took the worm shaft and carefully ground down the threads past the splines. When I was finished, I could put that nut on with my eyes closed. If it weren't so difficult to do, I'd do the same thing to every worm shaft I install. I'd give almost anything to have a lathe in my shop. The things I could do with one of those.


                • #9
                  Re: Worm Shaft

                  For someone new at this, Brunswick has a complete video tape library available. They are pretty good. There is one on gear box clutch removal. Check them out. There is one on troubleshooting the electrical system, and a couple of others.


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