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  • rake problems

    i have been having problems getting a rake adjusted correctly. i posted yesterday and got excellent response but the procudres haven't helped. while trying to get the 1/4 inch at the c-lever the shot gun unscrewed and came apart. the rake board when dropped is 5-6 inches off the pin deck. when sweeping it almost hits the pin deck. when it gets to 180 it raises up and almost hits the bottom of the stationary deck. sweeping foreward it rides 5-6 inches off the lane.the instructions given by jbees are great, but i cant get the "c" lever adj to come out right. is there something im missing or what. in jbees instructions step 2 says to loosen set screw to obtain this clearance. in order to move the rake trip shaft i have to release the trip latch otherwise the shaft won't move. it says not to open trip latch until step 7 so im not sure what im doing is correct or not.i have an idea that my goofy sweep has to do with the cam timing but i can't get that far.so any help would be greatly appreciated
    jaysen

  • #2
    Re: rake problems

    Jaysen:

    This is gonna sound dumb, but put the machine next door at 180, back it up two turns, and look at the cam. It will be exactly in the center of the low spot between two high spots. Make the timing of the problem machine the same, and then start with the procedure.


    Also, you can look at the machine next door when it's at 0, and see what the cam looks like at 0. If the gun fell apart trying to get the 1/4, cam is likely WAY off

    Old cam (overtravel equipped machines) at 0


    New cam (A-2's and converted with overtravel removed)


    Kevin

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    • #3
      Re: rake problems

      Kevin, All right I have to ask. What is the cable attached to your rake cam follower arm for?
      Also those of you who are new to the mechanic game I've been in many houses where the rake cam, 1 to 1 shaft hub and the ring that holds the rake cam in position are all witness marked usually with a white paint line. Makes it real easy to see if anything has moved. Once the machine is adjusted correctly just go down the row and mark all the rake cams.

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      • #4
        Re: rake problems

        KL:
        Great post. No wonder your number 1.
        Whats that cable, could you perchance,have no time delay modules to fuss with. Zots a good alternative, lets you run 90 weight.
        Roscoe

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        • #5
          Re: rake problems

          Sherlock and Roscoe:

          Yes, they are CABLE-trigger jetbacks, with the dashpot style (A) time delay. That's why I never answer questions about cycle solenoids, time delays or any of that ... I don't know what they are all about.

          Sherlock ... the complete diagram for cable triggering is on page 221 of the green book, for your amusement. Rube goldberg woulda been PROUD of the cable trigger setup, but truth is they are totally trouble-free. The part with the U bolt attatches to the front of the shotgun, when gun collapses, spring attatched to the back of the OOR coathanger mount pulls cable rearward, causing the tit on the cable to hit the brackets on top of starter bellcrank, pulling bellcrank rearward, opening clutch latch to start oil time delay.

          Roscoe: Roger, PJ, and the rest of the Zot gang have been trying since the dual output ET series came out to get me to switch, but the Super magics, with shotgun solenoids, that I bought back in '91 are still going strong. I'd love to have more consistant time delay, and to run 90w in my gearboxes, but the old gear runs flawlessly with those two exceptions. I actually wanted to get a couple new needles for my dashpots, but it seems they are discontinued [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif[/img]

          And after looking at the pics, the machine with the new style cam better be cleaner than that when I get back from vacation, that machine is gnarly-looking

          Kevin

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          • #6
            Re: rake problems

            To expand on Kevin's post, if your cam does not look like the one pictured at 180, then get the machine to 180, back it up two turns, loosen (do not remove) the six bolts securing the cam, then rotate the cam by hand until the follower falls into the low dwell. Once the cam timing is correct, start with the rest of the rake adjustments, shotgun, shock, etc.

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            • #7
              Re: rake problems

              KL;
              What color needles are you looking for? The color is on the back of the stem, where one puts a wrench. Unless your models were cut off to prevent changing, which happened in the early sixties. Then someone made a lawsuit stick with the local association, and they quit cutting the heads off. Have a few on hand, but a pal nut and a small easy out along with a new o ring usually will allow one to use whats currently installed. This will allow 90 oil providing a constant temp. is maintained in the rear.
              Roscoe

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              • #8
                Re: rake problems

                Roscoe:

                On va-ca for two weeks, I'll look when I get back, or if one of the guys calls me between now and then ... THANX

                Kevin

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