If you are seeing this you are not logged in to Bowl-Tech. Remove this notice by Registering or Logging in
By your continued use of this site you agree to the following.
You are over the age of 18, have had supervised training in safety and operations for the equipment you work on. Bowl-Tech does not warrant or guarantee the accuracy of information found on this site. Bowl-Tech, its officers and site Admins, Mentors and Guides will not be responsible in the case of losses financial or otherwise as a result of use of ANY information on this site. Posts on this site are allowed by registered members and each registered member is responsible for the content of their posts.
If you can not agree to any of these terms of use above or are not at least 18 years of age you are asked NOT to visit Bowl-Tech or utilize its content. To visit the Bowl-Tech Terms of Service and Rules CLICK HERE
Please join our community. It is easy and gives you additional access to forums and other tools. CLICK HERE to join
After careful adjustments it will run through the league time then when open play starts it kicks the large belt into small belt then make another adjustment and still licks into the small belt.
Level checks out fine played with tension also go by manual settings but no luck still kicking the belts any suggestions..
Here are a couple of things which always worked well for me,hope it helps you.
1.Be sure you have good pulley's-high crown ones work best
2. Zot makes a kit to raise the accellerators up and it works very well.
3.slow the accellerator motor down as slow as possible without getting undergrounds.
4. be sure your belt is in good shape.
If you do the above the adjustment is much easier to do and the belt is much less likely to jump.Good luck.
Is the belt old and worn out,you may want to change it.
Lately i've been wiping the belts with a clean dry towel,it helps remove alot of buildup and i have been starting to de-glaze the pullies,they get shiney from all the use so less grip.,i sand them down with med-fine sandpaper in a cross hatch pattern and those pesky belts stay on alot better.Just be careful if ya use the towel mothod so it doesn't yank out of you hand while the accel.is runnin'.
I have too many accels.that are just worn out at the lower mountings and they tilt/wobble so i just use a board to wedge it and it also stops tracking problems,but i'm gonna use brackets to hold them down in the summer.
Give me boosters any day,much better and not hard to work on either.
Use what you have to,to get it through the shift then fix it right.Do it right and live through the night...Safety first!
You might want to check and see which balls are causing this. I have horrible problems with EVERY new/newer ebonite ball (the cheap ones), and occasional problems with newer brunswick cosmic balls and their special league promo balls (ie. Visa-Ball, engraved cartoon balls, ect.)The accel. belt will be working perfectly until one of these balls goes through it. I have actually had a few of these balls get spit out of the front of the machine narrowly missing the masking unit and roll back up the gutter to the bowler! I have also had them throw the belt over and get the ball wedged between the frame and the belt causing a nice big rut on the side of the ball, and since they are always the newer balls doing this, the bowler is TWICE as mad when they see their ball! We have also had them throw the belt off in a way that the drive motor either burns out (even with a cut off switch), or it rips the belt up! Good luck!!
You might want to check your preference system. League bowlers comply with courtesy, but a lot of open play bowlers don't. So maybe you are getting multiple balls running through there? Or smacking it at the right/wrong time? Just a thought, that came to me when you said not during league, but open play.
Hard work and determination is the answer to all problems.
Originally posted by GalaxyBowl: After careful adjustments it will run through the league time then when open play starts it kicks the large belt into small belt then make another adjustment and still licks into the small belt.
Level checks out fine played with tension also go by manual settings but no luck still kicking the belts any suggestions..
We have been running modified accelerators since 1990 on and have not had to replace a belt or pulley since. We have raised accelerators and low rpm accelerator motors. We have had no belts jump off since the modifications.
Peanut is right about that. Slowing the accelerator down and raising it up puts much less stretch on the belt so it doesn't want to jump. Another benefit I noticed was almost eliminating any trouble with the ball lift lower hub clutch. I can't remember the last time I had to replace a bad one.
We did the same, put the Zot kits in to raise them, replace every pulley with high crowns and got rid of the jap drive pulleys (2-23/3) and haven't had to look at one since except to replace a broken support bracket or rubber mount here and there.
The worst thing is the new high end balls in the ball elevator. When new they grab the ball wheel so hard that if a pin gets in front if it and tries to stop the ball going up, the machine will throw the ball out on the floor, man that concrete does a number on a bouncing ball. Just another $200.00 door stop.....
Here's something that has worked for me in the past, when it seems no ammount of adjusting will keep the belt from traveling too much. Of course, not everything works for everybody. Loosen the 2 clamping nuts on the top of the accelerator, and the side, for the rear spindle assembly. Leave them tight enough to run the acc. but loose enough, that the spindle assemply will move when a ball passes through. Obsereve the travel of the belt as balls pass through the accelerator. Gradually loosen the side nut more, until the travel of the belt is minimized. Check the distance between the accelerator frame, and the spinndle ass, and add that much shim between them, tighten all nuts. If the belt travel only worsens, use the same procedure on the front spindle assembly instead. Hope I have explained this well enough to undertand. I'm a mechanic, not Stephen King!
O.K. , speaking of accelerator belts. I hate these new blue and green ones that are out now. Have had numerous ones just break - snap at the seam - without any warnings. Give me the old white rubber belts over these things anyday. I thought they stopped making the things, but when I asked my dist about them, "ya, we still have them but they are not in the cataolg anymore". Well if they are not in the catalog anymore, how am I to know that you still sell them?? (P.S. JPC carries the same white belt. special price of $86.11, almost $40 cheaper than someone else)
Marty - Liberty Lanes [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/usflag.jpg[/img]
Okay,i have the fast Jap accelerators with the 2-23/32 pullies.,what do i go to in order to slow them down to the next level?Which pulley size,do i then have to change all my long belt pullies to high crowns,and raise them all up?I have 2 lanes with the slower rpm motors and love them!!On certain lanes i get balls that can slam into the lifts,old mechanic left this unattended to for so long,thay use a shag type of carpet and not the normal retarder strips to slow things down but some motors go so damn fast it's a joke!Plan is to slow things down w/o 6-8lb balls stopping before the lifts.
Use what you have to,to get it through the shift then fix it right.Do it right and live through the night...Safety first!
I like the low RPM motor 1725rpm, WIth a low rpm motor and if you have retarder frames you can not go below a 2-11/16 size pulley on the motor(this makes sure it gets a 6lb ball to lift.). If you raise the accelerators you will not need the high crown pulleys. IF you do not have retarder frames you can go to the smallest pulley you like,we use a 1-1/2 pulley in one of our centers.
<a href="http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi" target="_blank">Grainger 1725 rpm motor # 6K438
</a>
I work on some nice old Brunswick A-2 pin setters. Most issues I've come across haven't been to problematic to figure out. But being I can't seem to get it to recreate the issue...
I’m a rookie mechanic and have been working on pinsetters for 2 years. One of my lanes has a problem with a sweep possibly coasting. I don’t know what could be causing it...
I was recently disheartened to learn that a bowling center that I once serviced was actively looking to replace their A2's. I understand that most military bases and educational...
Hello dear Bowltech members.
First let me say thank you for your time. am plagued by a big issue for three weeks now.
our technician is working full time on another...
One and a half year old GSX machines. This will be the 5th pivot bearing that has broke. This one decided to take out a few things with it. Snapped the stroke limiter shock stud...
Working...
X
We process personal data about users of our site, through the use of cookies and other technologies, to deliver our services, personalize advertising, and to analyze site activity. We may share certain information about our users with our advertising and analytics partners. For additional details, refer to our Privacy Policy.
By clicking "I AGREE" below, you agree to our Privacy Policy and our personal data processing and cookie practices as described therein. You also acknowledge that this forum may be hosted outside your country and you consent to the collection, storage, and processing of your data in the country where this forum is hosted.
Comment