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  • toggle question

    I recently noticed a pinwheel running rather clunky, and among other things, I found two toggles assembled backwards...they seem to be working, yet I am wondering what is the byproduct of being assembled backward? (spring on the right vs spring on the left)...thanks and be healthy!

  • #2
    That's a good question. We've often wondered exactly why AMF always put the spring on that particular side on each machine. As you say, they do seem to work fine on either side, but the only thing I can come up with is that the spring is on the trailing side to give more of a cushion when the toggle hits the closing bracket thus giving it less shock and it may close a bit easier since the direction of force is tilted a bit towards the spring. Would also put a bit less force on the closing bracket itself to help prevent it from cracking. Same principal for the pinfeed gate on top. They should open a bit easier with less shock or resistance. Don't know 100% if that's the reason for it but that's the only reason I can work out.
    Experience: Currently Help Maintain 44 82-30s and 50 82-70s.

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    • #3
      not bad...makes some sense...what other reason could there be other than the direction of rotation and force.....I have had many broken, and still have many...will be making sure they are correct regardless....perhaps that's one of the causes...enjoy!

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      • #4
        If you take them apart check to see if you don't have a twist in the mechanism, can be straightened by holding in vise and using a large Phillips Screw Driver in the small end to straighten.
        always doing my best.

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        • #5
          In my 20 years or so I didn't even know this was a thing. But makes sense. Only thing I knew was that the rubber rivet went on the opposite side of the spring.

          I will say I got through a ton of cracked ones and replaced or wired them up to hold in these 6 days we've been closed.

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          • #6
            yup.....been closed a week now....getting the place cleaner than it was when I got here...next comes the machines...at least 3 broken toggle housings(at the end where it wraps around the chrome tube...

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            • #7
              riverview scott, the broken ends do not matter, these were created by the Toggle Bolt that was the original holding Mechanism, all that is required is a large roll pin to stop the Ring Tube spinning, just 1 only all the Toggle Bolts can be removed. Also if you try to replace the Housing you might end up cracking more Housings, been there done that.
              always doing my best.

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              • #8
                another yup....I was shown to loosen the bolts all the way on toggles on each side, and still I break a few ends...Don in ohio showed me his setup...a bolt with a nylock nut...not sure I understand your description of how to remove the toggle bolts...I have seen them work with the ends broken...when I get done with the clean up, my plan is to go thru all the pinwheels, center things, and repair all toggles to make smoother pin feeding...lost lots of distributor tracks due to pins out of time....or extra pins...

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                • #9
                  I've never broken another housing trying to change one.

                  Describing like a clock of I wanted 12 out I'd take the bolts out of 11 and 1 as well. Then pop the distributor out of the Yoke, use a pry bar to separate slightly more to get the housing out and put a new one in.

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                  • #10
                    sounds like what I described...whats the popping out of the distributor for? I was shown to leave the bolts just barely started, but I am thinking now it would be best to remove them...

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by riverview scott View Post
                      sounds like what I described...whats the popping out of the distributor for? I was shown to leave the bolts just barely started, but I am thinking now it would be best to remove them...
                      I take out the distributor so the wheel can move far enough to get the toggle housings out.

                      Normally I take all the bolts out, put a chunk of wood under the wheel so it won't drop and replace.

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                      • #12
                        I would block up the pin wheel, remove bolts on each adjacent housings and loosen the bolts on the next two toggles. also I would install the toggle tip after housing is in place. A little more ratcheting but never broke any ether. Late Chief

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