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82-30 distributor belt install tips


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  • 82-30 distributor belt install tips

    hi guys, i have a few do you pick the perfect length of belt? i have a few nice belts my friend Don from ohio sent me, but they are a couple inches too short...i have another nice one that is about an inch long...i also have the lacing tool that i have to figure out how to use...i saw a tip that if you overlap the belts by an inch with the springs off it makes for a good fit, but on mine thats too loose...the other question: is there tips for connecting the belt ends together? if its tight enough, you need four hands to install the pin...i found a length dimension to go to, then it didnt work on another machine..I appreciate all the input as always!

  • #2
    Not sure if this will help but; I make up one side [ new belt ] or that your too long belt.Springs removed, Thread it onto the dist. you want it on and over lap the ends at the rear of dist. top side. pull belt snug and hold with one hand and set the rear tension roller with the dog leg up in the correct position. pull the belt tight, now mark the bottom belt with a pen about 1/4 inch from the lacing and cut. use a square and draw line across belt and cut. The 1/4 will be made up by the lacing length.Once you made up the lacing thread it through and like before make it up at the top rear, hold it together with one hand and start the pin about 1/2. Then you can reposition one hand to angle up the belt and finish pushing in pin. Some times a pair of needle nose pliers help. Set the rear tension roller correctly and put on springs.
    It'[s the way I did it since the dist. seemed to be different lengths. On the too short ones you can use the piece you cut off and add it to them. after a while I ended up with a variety of short lengths, also when a belt was to slick to work any more I would cut the lace off about 4" and save for if I ever cut one to short, Ha yes even I oops now and then.
    It will become easy as the more you do, soon you will be doing it in the dark.
    Hope this helps
    Later Chief


    • #3
      Have attached instructions from AMF manual in screenshot. Depending on type of belt used, for example a thicker belt you'll need to cut a tad longer. Otherwise when on it will pull your dissy arm when extended to #1 bin.


      • #4
        thanks for the input....i like the technique to fit the belts...i have taken one off a machine to use on another, and it doesnt this make em all fit....custom...and the lacer instructions arent in my book, so thanks there too...i am going to make some patches to use the 2 new but too short belts...i have one used but good belt, which i will cut to size and custom fit...i have a few where the pin races downhill and doubles the five...somethin tells me i will be an expert belt splicer and installer in a week or so....reopening on the 10th, so i want things running well.....thanks again and good luck to all!


        • #5
          just found a nearly new belt, and it overlapped exactly an inch...hooked up springs, and the belt is too loose...pins slip, belt stops, question now is, which is an easier, go to first, shortening a too long belt, or lengthening a too short belt? i have supplies for both, so just curious what you guys do...i am going to use a worn out belt to cut splices, and make a short belt longer....not sure if thats better, but it be learnin time!


          • #6
            I personally have never patched a belt together, or lengthened a belt that was too short. For me it's not worth it. Too many joining points will inevitably have belt be stiff at those joints and cause movement in dissy arm.
            If you suspect a belt too long then yes I'd cut 1/8"-1/4" off and replace. Always bare in mind the lacing adds 1/4" to your belt. So when measuring belt be sure to measure the material only.

            If you're ever uncertain of length can always cut a belt to same length as one you've just removed. However, you run risk of a false measurement if that belt is old and been run in a long time it could have stretched.

            In regards to a pin racing downhill and double stacking at 5bin. This I wouldn't see as a belt issue. Most likely carriage not level or dissy off balance.


            • #7
              good stuff...yeah the 5 was the belt....if a pin was going down hill, it would slip, and accelerate, the next pin would literally catch up to it....from a combo of no rubber left on the belt, and oil on the pins and belt...i learned how to use the lacer, was easier than i pictured...had to cut off a couple inches from a nearly new belt, and used the quarter inch overlap technique...when i was done, the spring gap measurement in the book was 5 inches...the max the springs on, and the belt still slipped....hmmm...loosened the clutch and slipping stopped, however, i had to twist the spring waaaay farther than i would have thought to get some clutch pressure...i am going to change the disc and adjust things a gut says this will do it, but i wont claim success until i see it...will update, and thanks again!


              • #8
                I have marks on the floor In the shop from the previous mechanic that was here 50 years or so.


                My manual says 156" to 158"

                Never had an issue going with that on all our distributors.

                As for tips to install once you have the springs off you should have no problem putting the ends together and slipping the pin thru. Then pull the springs back on and good to go.

                Springs should be atleast 3½" when installed.


                • #9
                  Here is the picture.


                  • #10
           spring measures 5", so it's really far if I have it short enough to lace easily, they slip...also, I use the floor too...similar numbers, but each machine seems to fit different...thanks again!


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