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  • #16
    I'm still not sure I would be so eager to label that chassis as bad. I tend to agree with the others that you likely have a wiring issue and that's most likely in the connectors. The fact that you put one chassis in that worked doesn't override the other 3 or 4 knows good chassis that you tried that didn't work. There is something else going on here and you may not be able to solve it by parts swapping. I don't like parts swapping and this is just one of the many reasons why. It may be time to do some good ole fashion troubleshooting.

    Let us know what you find when you start putting the other chassis back in their respective machine where they ran good before all this. If the machines weren't running during the heatwave, then they shouldn't have been effected by the high heat.

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    • #17
      After my last post, I got to thinking about your little problem. So I read your original post again and this is what caught my eye.

      "in the end, i put the original back in...by blowing the fan with an air hose, the fan ran and kept running...now the only symptom is that the table drops to the floor when it should stop at the zero point...hand crank and it doesnt fall backward, back to the floor...but as soon as i crank over the top, she drops all the way down...motor has the leather straps to keep from coasting, which is very tight, but this is far more than coasting...on the way up, stops and stops with the cam roller, but as soon as it reaches zero, down she goes...is this in the motor? the gearbox? or could the chassis be telling it not to hold its position? i am perplexified and welcome all your great input as always! thanks...(also, can i open a zot and clean or change the fans?---has a foil tape between the halves to show tampering for warrantee reasons.)"

      So you put the original chassis back in and it ran fine except for the table braking not stopping it at 0. But here's the thing. The chassis has absolutely nothing to do with table breaking. Zip, Zero, Nadda. When the chassis is notified from TA1 that the table is at 350 degrees, it shuts down the table contactor CR2 and then it no longer has anything to do with stopping the motor or holding it's position. All that you can do to help the chassis get the table to stop at 0 is to adjust TA1 so it signals the chassis sooner to shut CR2 off a bit earlier so the table stops sooner. It's kind of like pushing a car. Once you stop pushing, whatever happens to the car is out of your hands,

      The braking is done by the magnetic field generated by the spinning motor which generates an electric current through the capacitors and the NC contacts of CR2. The only way the chassis could be responsible for the table dropping to the floor is if it continued to energize CR2 or if CR2 has a pair of contacts that are sticking. But if that was the case then it would be odd for the table to repeatedly drop to the floor each time and then stop. You would think that sometimes it would just keep running. Besides that, when you put the chassis on the machine next door it basically ran as it should with only a little overshoot that could likely be fixed with a simple cam adjustment.

      But here is the kicker. You said when it dropped to the floor and you hand cranked it back up that it held until you went over the top. Now I presume that when you hand crank the motor that you are unplugging it. So if it's unplugged, then there is no way the chassis can drive it back to the floor once you go over the top since there is no power to the motor. Finally, the electric braking does NOT hold the table up or in any position. Once the motor stops or at least slows down sufficiently, it is the friction in the gear drive that holds the table up. Nothing else.

      So, if I read your post correctly, then I am fairly confident that your problem is mechanical. I think there might be some other issues that need addressed, but until you can crank the unpowered motor to any position and have it hold there, I can't imagine your problem going away.

      Let me know if I'm reading something wrong. It happens.

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      • #18
        I briefly glanced over the replies so forgive me if this has been mentioned. Since its a 6525 it has electrical braking. Check and/or refresh the wires in the table motor plug. Poor connections (especially on the ground) will cause table and sweep drifts. Adjust the table a little before top dead center to give it some room to move. I'm not familiar with Zot chassis so i don't know if you'll have head pin to sweep clearance issues

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        • #19
          While you could do this as a temporary (very temporary) fix to get you through a league or something, it would not be recommended as even a short term fix. There are several reasons why but the most important would be safety. The friction in the gearbox keeps the table from falling which is the main cause that was posted. Without sufficient friction to hold the table up, the table could fall at an unexpected time and cause serious bodily injury to someone. As was posted, that is basically what started all of this is when the table was found setting on top of the sweep.

          Think of it as running up to a cliff. As long as you stop before the cliff's edge you will be ok. But as soon as you pass the point of no return, there are going to be problems. In this case, you could adjust the table to stop just before the edge of the cliff (top of stroke at 0), but the reality is there is always a possibility the table won't get stopped in time every time and go over the top. It only takes one time. At that point the table will fall and can cause damage to the machine or people. Your better off just fixing the gearbox so it will hold the table in any position. Then adjust the cam to stop at or just before 0 and if it runs over occasionally then it's no big deal.

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          • #20
            i agree...when i came here, i found a lot of duct tape, bailing wire, etc...i swore i would do things the right way...now five years in, i am finding i am forced to do what i have to do sometimes...but i try to keep it to a minimum....just got back after my first vacation in more than five years, and just saw this post....can you tell me how the gearbox does the stopping, and what needs repairing to get it back to good working order? i believe this has been the deal since before i got here...i remember thinking the machine must be haunted, as a few times i have come in early to find the table on the sweep...not sure why the sweep was down, and in part way...but i digress....dont want the table falling on me, so i am going to swap in a newly rebuilt motor/gearbox combo...thanks again!

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            • #21
              Try this.. (Safety first of cpurse) Manually run the table with the switch half way down and let off. It should stop dead. If it stops then starts drifting that would gearbox. If it immediately drifts that sounds electrical, bottom points, J box connection, table wire, table plug wire, etc.

              Fixing a loose table/sweep gearbox is not as bad as it seems. Spot a full rack and lower the table onto it to take the pressure off. There are 4 5/16 bolts and 2 very stout couplets holding it in.

              If you go thru witj it let us know and we'll coach you thru the gearbox. You might get lucky and have a broken Allen bolt inside, or you may have to de shim it. Not hard just nasty and takes a little time

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              • #22
                I remember in your original post about how hot it got out there the other week. While not the root cause it definitely ain't helping out any

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                • #23
                  Yup.....the chassis fans demand regular inspection....plus, I'm my environment, back end fans to move air, is also important...

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                  • #24
                    I might also add.....four zot eagle eyes forget the pin count overnight....assuming the heat cooked the battery in each....if they have batteries.....

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