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  • Posting for my Dad's Alley

    Hi,

    I'm posting for my father who owns and operates a 10 lane house and has all 82-30 machines with 6525 chassis. He is completely computer illiterate so I'm the go between. I'm trying to find any help on finding schematics or manuals for the machines. I've searched through the site and have found the 82-30 manual and a wiring drawing created by loius chanady. I thank you very much for these and they will help immensely. Is there any other reference material available or manuals that I don't know about? Right now he is mostly concerned with the 6525 chassis. He lucked into buying 10 chassis from an old AMF salesman a little while back but only 1 of them actually worked. So we hope to maybe get 4 or 5 of the 10 to work just using the otheres for parts. Is there a wiring manual for this or is the drawing from loius chanady that? I very much appreciate any and all help and thank you for supplying the material I have already found.

  • #2
    Welcome!

    You may have this already but if you go to the QubicaAmf customer portal and sign up you can download everything they have concerning the 82/30 machine. Otherwise the quickest way to find answers to your issues is to post specific problems in the 82/30 forum you have with each chassis and you will get responses.

    There are also a lot of techs on here that can help you with the wiring and chassis schematics but again, questions concerning specific items or wiring in the chassis will get you more answers.

    Good luck.

    Wow 10 lanes, that sounds awesome....would love to see pics.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'll get some this weekend. Its an old place, 10 lanes, carpeted walls?, no automatic scoring, still has a push button register?, it's old school to the tee. I just want the place to last long enough till he eventually passes which isn't for a while I hope he's only 53 and has been working there since he was 17 and bought it 12 years ago. He knows the machines and the parts just not by their proper names(thingamabob, whatchyacallit). My only wish is the place burns down before my brother or I get it. just kidding, but not really.

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      • #4
        Please fill out your profile to include the info on:
        Scoring system
        Lane type
        Lane machine

        Thanks!

        Comment


        • #5
          Filled out as much as I know, will update when I learn more.

          Comment


          • #6
            I like the scoring system answer

            Welcome to Bowltech!

            Thanks for filling it out!

            Comment


            • #7
              Are your chassis still using the steppers or have they been converted to Omega Teks?
              I've had enough of hope & chains.

              Comment


              • #8
                Welcome buddy, just a suggestion but if neither one of you have any real back ground on the machines it would pay to have some one come in and run through them with you. The chassis may be some thing as simple as a modification that some one may have made in the J strip. There is a guy that I gave the service work of two centers too that are about 45 min due East of you. Lewistown and Huntindon. If your interested send me a PM and Ill forward you Steves information.

                Regards
                Charlie
                Please buy MADE IN USA!

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                • #9
                  Hey,

                  Welcome to Bowltech!

                  I am Louis Chanady and I created those drawings you downloaded. Yes, they are the wiring schematic for the entire 6525 chassis. On the one that says "Power Circuits", that is all of the high-voltage 120V AC circuitry. Such as the motor wiring and the main power in. The other one is the low-voltage control circuits which controls the logic of the machine. To troubleshoot a chassis problem with a schematic, you need to know which relay on the chassis does what and which relays are which numbers (Most of them are stamped on the chassis next to the relay). On another thread a year or 2 ago, I posted what all the relays do. You can see it here:

                  http://www.bowltech.com/forums/showt...l=1#post396524

                  That might help point you in the right direction to finding your problem.

                  I will also add to it that if you are changing chassis a lot, after you put a chassis in, always take a flashlight and look into the back of the box where the chassis plugs in (called the J-Box) to make sure no pins/terminals have been pushed out of place by the chassis. ESPECIALLY if you your pins/terminals in the box are a gold color. They push out a lot easier and more often than the ones that are silver colored. If you see any pushed out, unplug the power, then use a screwdriver to push them back in. Some may be so bent-up that they need straightening or replaced before they will push in correctly. If these pins are pushed out, it can cause many weird problems because they won't be making contact with the chassis.

                  Like the others said, maybe if you posted what a chassis is specifically doing wrong, maybe we can help. The first step to troubleshooting any chassis is usually to file all the contacts with a fine ignition file or contact burnisher and clean them up good (with the chassis OUT of the machine). Then, visually make sure all the contacts are working properly. Make sure the normally-open contacts are making contact when you push the relay down with your finger. Then, make sure the normally-closed contacts are making contact when you let the relay back up. If you see one that doesn't look right, take a small screwdriver and carefully bend it a little until it looks better. Then, take a little screwdriver and lightly touch all the little wires where they are soldered to the relays and make sure there are no loose solder connections. After that, put the chassis in and cycle it a few times. While the stepper is moving through the cycles, spray it where it turns and on the side where the interrupter contacts are with NON-FLAMMABLE (don't ask) contact cleaner or electric-motor cleaner. Then keep it cycling to let the cleaner wipe the stepper clean as it turns. Do NOT however, spray the other relays. I have had that actually cause the relays to stop working because it washes dirt into the contacts.

                  Well, that will get you started. If those initial steps don't help the problem, then you have a more serious problem. So post it here for more input.

                  Louie
                  Experience: Currently Help Maintain 44 82-30s and 50 82-70s.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    FYI, LPS makes a spray called PSC (plastic safe cleaner) that's a MUST for the old stepper relays. It's advantages are it is non-flammable, may be sprayed while the stepper is in operation (in fact the preferred way is to let the wipers arms spin repeatedly while spraying as it will self clean the arms and blades), it cleans AND prevents oxidation which is the main culprit of these relays, and lubricates the contacts which prevents deterioration without decreasing the amount of voltage that is transferred from the arms to the blades. Be sure to oil the pivot points of the actuating system of the relay after cleaning the relay. The only down side is cost........ it's about $60 a can, yes a can, NOT a case, available through Grainger. The other good news is that it's available 1 can at a time, but order 2 as once you use it , you will have a spare can to use when the 1st one is gone. It is also good on PC boards and audio dials and switches (removes static and crackle), but it's too expensive to use as a general electrical cleaner.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by NeverSeenThat View Post
                      (in fact the preferred way is to let the wipers arms spin repeatedly while spraying as it will self clean the arms and blades)
                      Actually, this is how we always clean our steppers. I just didn't want to confuse them by giving them too much info at once, so I thought for now, spraying during a cycle would get them by.

                      Thanks for the info on the LPS. Sounds pretty pricey! I do know that finding non-flammable contact cleaner is not easy! Which doesn't make sense to me since I would say the majority of breaking contacts usually spark! I have even have access to a big automotive supply company with huge warehouses full of name brand chemicals and sprays that supplies the entire USA with products and even they did not have a single can of non-flammable contact cleaner! The easiest one to find that will do the job is electric motor cleaner (which some of them also say contact cleaner on them). But usually to get a pure contact cleaner that is non-flammable, it is a special order and over $15 per can. And even then, you can't always trust it. Just a few months ago, I worked at a center that had a brand of contact cleaner I had never heard of and it said "non-flammable" right on the can. So, I got the stepper spinning, sprayed the wipers and interrupters and then POOF, flames! Luckily I got it out before it did any permanent damage.

                      The moral of the story is, it is worth the extra money for good name-brand non-flammable contact cleaner if you have stepper chassis!

                      Louie
                      Experience: Currently Help Maintain 44 82-30s and 50 82-70s.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You've just said a mouthful!!!!!!!!!!

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                        • #13
                          They could also invest in some chassis that have been converted to Omega Tek boards and then you have no more steppers!!
                          Gene Simmons for president!!!

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