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  • starter pad assembly

    Does anyone one know where I can purchase one of these blue pads pictured here in this starter pad assembly
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  • #2
    Zot may have something like that. I use a reg. starter strip and glue a strip of orange lift belt on the front filler. There are some pics on here somewhere that were posted awhile back.

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    • #3
      Im looking for that exact pad, the zot one is a ratchet style with 2 smaller pads, but thanks for the help

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Jfitz View Post
        Im looking for that exact pad, the zot one is a ratchet style with 2 smaller pads, but thanks for the help
        Are yours pretty old? I got some stuff from a 30's place that closed and it had one like that. could it have been a Headway part?

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        • #5
          I'm not sure how old it is. I bought it with a truckload of other parts when a center was closing and found it when I was sorting through everything. It works unbelievable with kickers, better than anything else I've used. Light balls, rubber, or oil soaked -not a single problem with this pad. I've looked everywhere for this thing and not really sure what its made of but it works great.

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          • #6
            I like this idea, I see how it could help and I would try it except the days of kickers here are very numbered.

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            • #7
              If you had this blue pad, you would keep the kickers!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jfitz View Post
                If you had this blue pad, you would keep the kickers!
                No Sir, I don't think so! Let's just say I don't like kickers very much.

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                • #9
                  Some where in the 70's side I think there is a mode I use. By using the black pad that is used for the lift arm. I put them on all my filler plates and greatly reduce the number of ball calls.
                  amf 82-70
                  B2000
                  quibca

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                  • #10
                    I always wondered why the front filler was never designed to hold such rubber pads. Sure the 'rooftop' pad is in the bottom but the ball doesn't always contact just that part of it. If you look at any standard used front filler you will always see shiny spots or wear above the rooftop on the sides, where the ball has also contacted it and where this aftermarket pad sits. By adding rubber pads here it gives the ball something in addition to the rooftop to grab so it can be rolled in. I think someone on here tried drilling a couple of holes on each side and installed either cup liners or lift arm liners with good results, totally makes sense and I guess the thicker the pad the better.

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                    • #11
                      Kind of off topic, but here are a few other kicker tips:

                      1. The edge of the bounce plate at the ball door should always be slightly above the ball door. The ball should have to go slightly down to get to the ball door. This puts gravity working for you instead of against you by helping give the ball some starting momentum. If your bounce plate is a little low, install a 070-007-846 triangle riser plate on the bounce plate.

                      2. Kind of related to the last tip, but with the machine off and the paddle on the opposite side, get a bowling ball and let it slowly roll into the ball door and come to a rest on it's own. When the ball is at rest, you want it to be touching or very close to touching the kicker roller. This will insure the ball will always easily come in contact with the roller and not need a lot of momentum to do so. To adjust this, see number 1 above or you might have to adjust the thickness of the bumper the kicker assembly is up against.

                      3. The starter pad should never be too high. You should have about 1/2" to 3/4" of space between the bottom of the starter pad and the front filler. If the starter pad is too high, the ball will hit the high spot on the pad and it will impede entry into the exit. Sometimes you will have to cut a notch out of the bottom-left corner of the pad to get it to slide down where it needs to be. Also, it is recommended to drill a hole in the metal beside the starter pad and install a short drywall screw to hold the pad in place or else the balls will pull the pad up.


                      These are the 3 things I always check first when I run into a kicker problem (aside from the obvious like a bumper falling out or a shredded kicker roller).

                      There are many other tricks and I'm sure everybody has a list like this in their head, but these are main ones that I look for.

                      Louie

                      (PS: I like PBLs )
                      Experience: Currently Help Maintain 44 82-30s and 50 82-70s.

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                      • #12
                        Louie, you're are spot on! The other I look for is the upper ears of the front filler, they wear and the ball will flop off to the side and not go up. I have a local welding shop put a new blob of aluminum on there and I regrind it back to new. They also beef up the under side where the whole ear breaks off.

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                        • #13
                          One more tip for kicker equiped centers. When I had mine, my most problematic 2 lanes were both even lanes. On both lanes, I found that both starter assemblies had worn out bushings. I caught them before the main bracket holes got worn out. I put new bushings in and had no more issues with those two lanes. Then I got a good deal on PBLs.
                          Gene Simmons for president!!!

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                          • #14
                            Headway used to sell those special pads. Worked pretty good.

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                            • #15
                              Is Headway still around? I have never heard of them. Does anyone have any of these that they would be willing to get rid of?

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