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1st ball on new lane!

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  • 1st ball on new lane!

    A friend came over Saturday afternoon and we worked til dinner time building the framework for two 7-foot modular sections of lane and cutting the synthetic lane panels to size. The three sections aren't lined up and locked together yet, and the lane surface isn't screwed down, but I did set up a few racks of pins and temporarily rigged the pit for necessary testing. The first ball I threw had a nice arc and lined up for a solid pocket hit, but the 6-pin dove into the gutter and left the 10 standing. Yep, just like the real thing, so I'll call that a success! The ladder frames for the lane sections seem nicely sturdy.

    Some specs:

    Total length: 21 feet
    Lane length: 19.5 feet
    Lane height from ground: 12.5 inches
    Distance to head pin: 18 feet
    Lane width: 21 inches
    Gutter width: 5 inches
    Lane surface: Brunswick Pro Anvilane

    I'm going to rip the Anvilane scraps into 5" strips to line the gutters, and paint them. Also still need to finish the pit, assemble the masking unit and pinsetter.

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Awesome job! I love the way it looks. I hope you're storing it inside! What is the bedding made with? Looks like 4x4s, what are the cross sections with?

    Keep us posted! This thing looks sexy.

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    • #3
      Cool!
      .
      .
      .
      This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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      • #4
        Yes, great job!!! It actually looks longer than 19.5 feet!!! Yes keep the pics coming!!!
        --- SteveJT66

        82/70's,kickers,Kegel Kustodian

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        • #5
          Nice!
          Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
          Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
          Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
          Kegel C.A.T.S

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          • #6
            Nice job!
            www.BasementBowling.com

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            • #7
              I used 4x4s for the legs, 2x4s for the sides and underneath the lane panels, and 2x3s for the crossmembers. In hindsight I'd probably go with 2x4s for the crossmembers because the 2x3 lumber seems more prone to warping. I'd intended to use 2x3s underneath the lane panels but they started to warp and twist on the partially completed sections so I replaced them with 2x4s. Was trying to save weight where possible but the completed sections will still be movable by 2 people.

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              • #8
                Assembled the pinsetter this weekend! Used Steve/Chad's designs as the inspiration, with a few changes. The last step will be to make a wrap-around deck shield out of some lightweight material like foamcore or corrugated plastic. I need a model designation for it so I can make a deck shield decal.

                Works great, although not attached to the lane yet. Back is sore from lifting the entire unit over the curtain to set pins. Hopefully later this week, and then I can start focusing on cosmetic stuff like painting and the masking unit.

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                • #9
                  Awesome pin setter! I love everything you have done so far. I am really liking the idea of angling the opening of the pin cups, looks great! How long til you have it mounted? Do you have a pit area designed, under construction, or complete but not attached? I wish the weather in my area would allow me to have the unit outdoors, but in Chicago I'd be SOL for most of the year! Great job

                  Tim

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                  • #10
                    I'm hoping the angled opening will make it a little easier to load the front pins by reducing the need to reach. Mounting it to the lane will probably happen this weekend but I'm struggling with the method. I want to keep the space above the gutters clear of any crossmembers or supports in case I design a sweep sometime in the future. Maybe run supports from the curtain in the back to the masking unit.

                    The pit is designed and assembled to the point where everything is solid and playable now, but there's a few parts I haven't cut and installed yet. All the surfaces that the pins and balls come in contact with are covered in outdoor carpeting, the cushion plank is covered in the leftover strip of rubber doormat trimmed from the curtain, and the pit floor has a steep slope which uses gravity to send the pins to the very back. The pins skate across the carpet nicely, so the design works, but I wonder what will happen when I finalize everything and reduce the gap under the cushion plank so the ball cannot pass through. The ball is supposed to be stopped by the cushion plank and divert down a narrow sloped track to a ball door on the right side.

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                    • #11
                      The current pit I'm using is covered in nylon, the pit slopes back and to the right, so the pins skate across the pit and fall back under the pit cushion while the ball rolls to the right. I haven't had many issues with it, occasionally a pin will get lodged between the right side wall and the ball, but mostly they slide back no problem when the ball exits the deck.

                      I ran into the same issue about the pinsetter + sweep and the deck getting in the way of the sweep arms. Right now my deck is enclosed in a cage (4x4 legs essentially, 2x4s around the top with 90 degree braces). Instead of mounting your pindeck supports horizontally across the lane, why not mount them inwards about an inch or two and perpendicular to the lane? Basically I'd be turning parts of steve's design around the other way to leave the side sections open so the sweep arms could move parallel to the deck support boards.

                      If I successfully replicate the 82/70 sweep (per andy's dimensions), I won't have any issues. I'm adding the sweep first before I drop the deck in so I won't have to do a ton of major modifications if (when) stuff heads south.

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                      • #12
                        Hi Dberber,
                        Nice job on the pinsetter!!! I wish I thought of cutting the openings like you did...LOL Hey, glad you thought of it, it will make it a little easier I think, but not I have gotten so used to doing it the way I do, I kind of have a method of manipulating the pins in my hands as I'm loading to where I don't even think about it anymore, and I am very quick at it. Keep us all posted on your progress!!!

                        Hey Jimmy, yes, I wish I did that the first time around...! Hopefully someday if I ever decide to install a sweep, I can make it work. I have toyed around with pieces of wood, and made it like a hinge type mechanism that seems to work fine, but getting it to stay off the lane is a stumbling block. I'd have to use the A2 type double arm to raise sweep as it moves towards the back of the deck. The major renovation would be to move the masking unit forward. Aaarrghhhh!
                        Last edited by Stevejt66; 08-15-2012, 10:00 PM.
                        --- SteveJT66

                        82/70's,kickers,Kegel Kustodian

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                        • #13
                          Wow, nice work, can't wait to see the finished product with some video of games bowled!!!!
                          If it can't be fixed with a hammer, try a bowling pin! They're heavier and more surface area for whacking!

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                          • #14
                            That is awesome!!!

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                            • #15
                              Mounted the pinsetter and painted the gutters this weekend. I need to install some braces on the supports for the pinsetter to keep everything square and stop the wobbling but other than that the design works pretty well. The deck rides on a set of 18" full-extension ball bearing drawer slides. The deck is held in loading position with latches used for gated fences after I discovered they'll work vertically, one on the 7-pin side and one on the 10-pin side. A tug on the release cord and the deck can be lowered to set pins, then when the deck is lifted back up to loading position the latches automatically lock on their own.

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