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  • #76
    Yes, those are the ones. It looks like he added videos with the masking unit after I saw his original videos.

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    • #77
      Originally posted by s323790r View Post
      I believe I've found the videos in my Drive. Are these the videos you were talking of?

      https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...kU?usp=sharing
      This thing is a work of art. Thanks for posting the videos. I've seen them before but had forgotten how nice this was.

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      • #78
        Originally posted by s323790r View Post
        I believe I've found the videos in my Drive. Are these the videos you were talking of?

        https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...kU?usp=sharing
        Wonderful job!

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        • #79
          Yes a work of art. I'll add that it's even more than that, an excellent engineering accomplishment. I remember when I first discovered the project, I watched those clips over and over .... in amazement. I kept in touch with the builder over the course of many months back then. I wonder what's happened to that machine.

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          • #80
            Some progress being made on iteration 3. After getting the first three pins worth of cells printed and connected together it looks like everything is fitting together nicely. Some adjustments need to be made on a couple of pieces but luckily that won't impede me from using what I have already printed.

            As of now everything works well together, clearance wise, for both spotting and respotting movements. I'm hoping I can have more of the base cells printed out by the end of the week so I can actually mount the table itself onto what I am envisioning for a frame and assembly for driving it. I have a decent shipment of motor controllers and wiring coming on Thursday so I can actually start testing my code fully and figuring out where everything is going to fit / mounting points on the table itself.

            In terms of the pin chutes, the way I have them designed out now is that the funnels / buckets will pressure fit over the bases that are currently mounted to the table. I am still working on my turret design, so I don't want to get too far into the actual design of that until I know how the turret itself is going to fully function (dimensionally).

            I am still on the fence of whether or not I am going to utilize a pinwheel or a GS style pin lift. Ideally, in my mind, I'd like to have a pinwheel but I need to see how size wise it shapes up with the height and size of the turret and transport band.

            In terms of the pictures, disregard the box packed full of failed prints and old designs (and the cameo by the v1 scissor deck leaning against the wall)

            Definitely better going better than last go around, but still a lot to be done. Nothing new, innovative or groundbreaking, but oh well, I just want to bowl.
            Attached Files
            - Shaun R.
            - Web Developer / Programmer

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            • #81
              Really nice work. Now that I have my printer running and I'm cranking out parts, I can fully appreciate the work you are doing. My plan is to build a solid version of my resettable pin release mechanism. Once I get that done, I may build 10 of them and mount them on a table. I don't have a set of 1/2 scale pins (that's the scale of my prototype), but I do have a small 1/3 scale lane with pins and ball. So I might scale the drawings and build 10 in 1/3 scale. It should be interesting.

              This sentence of yours makes me smile: ... but oh well, I just want to bowl. It seems like that's how these projects always begin ....

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              • #82
                Looking good. Quick question. In the photos where you show the pins being held by their bellies, what are you holding them with? Is it similar to what I do? Can't quite make it out in the pictures.

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                • #83
                  Hey Phil! I'm using a similar method as you came up with for your machine where the sliding respot deck helps support the pin. However, because of the thickness of my pieces I couldn't do a simple keyhole shape as the plastic was too slick and didn't support the pin belly enough. Basically it just became a ramp where the pin was almost always at the maximum angle the chute would allow.

                  So to rectify that I just adjusted the cell itself to a support notch cut out of it contoured to the shape of the pin which seems to be holding pretty well so far. I've attached a picture of one of my "junk print" respot cells which has the pin support notch cut out of it. The only downside to having to do this was that I essentially had to reprint everything I had started as I needed to extend the amount of slide I needed on the respot deck. Life in prototyping.

                  The last three photos are the three positions of the respot deck (home, spotting, forward) from above in the model.
                  Attached Files
                  - Shaun R.
                  - Web Developer / Programmer

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Looking great, that table actually looks pretty robust.
                    If it can't be fixed with a hammer, try a bowling pin! They're heavier and more surface area for whacking!

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                    • #85
                      In the first picture that shows the plastic piece, the bottom two tabs extending downward that have the holes, they look like they have open space below - as if the printer head is laying plastic in space. Even the tabs to the right look like they have space below. How did you print them? Or does this piece actually consist of two or more pieces?

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                      • #86
                        The open space is done using support material. Essentially, when turned on in the slicer, the printer prints a thin "just strong enough" framework to support any overhangs. Then once the print is finished, you can simply break off the support material. Sometimes it breaks cleanly, sometimes you need to put some work into it (with either putty knives, razer, sanding, etc depending on the object itself).
                        Attached Files
                        - Shaun R.
                        - Web Developer / Programmer

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Ok, that makes sense. In my reading and research about this, I did see information about support. But I kind of figured that for something accurate, it might be risky. But it looks like it works ok. And my guess is that ones the supports are at the desired height and it starts layering, as long as the first full layer is true, all the other layers will be fine. Thanks for the information.

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                          • #88
                            The accuracy is pretty decent but it definitely does require some testing and playing around as each printer is different (and each print itself can be slightly different). With everything I've been doing with interlocks, I have been within 1/64" to 1/128" tolerance when it comes to overlap alignment, height wise. I have done my best to keep this in mind as I've been creating pieces it still can create some weird compounding side effects. Nothing too drastic, but adjustments do have to be made.

                            If I would only be using the pieces in coordination with other materials, where the printed pieces are one off components of a larger steel or aluminum table, it definitely wouldn't be as big of an issue. I very easily could take the designs and ideas I've been playing with and go with more hardened materials but I've had it in mind to try and go the all printed route just to challenge myself a little more than I think I realized at the beginning of the project.

                            Keeps me busy (and frustrated) but I enjoy it.
                            - Shaun R.
                            - Web Developer / Programmer

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              At this point in my designs and prints, I'm avoiding the need for supports. In some ways it's making my designs clean and easy enough to manage. I'm sure at some point I'll need to consider supports in more complex structures. 1/64 to 1/28 isn't bad at all. When I'm taking measurements I'm trying to stay around 1/64. So far so good. Actually the most difficult part of this entire process is leveling the bed. I have the BL Touch but I haven't installed it yet. But adjusting the 4 corners can really end up chasing the adjustments around the bed. I've watched a number of videos on this and I'm taking what seems to be the right approach. One tutorial said it's critical to heat the nozzle and the bed. So I did that, but what ends up happening is that plastic comes out of the nozzle ever so slowly causing the adjustment to change radically because of the plastic on the nozzle tip. So I just heat the bed and start adjusting. In one video, someone suggested replacing the bed springs with others that he posted. I bought them and replaced them yesterday. The thinking is that the springs supplied are not very stiff and can wobble throwing off the adjustments. The new ones are quite stiff and the adjustment wheels offer more resistance so it feels like perhaps fine tuning the adjustment is more sure. But we'll see.

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                              • #90
                                The more you can avoid supports the better. Like you mentioned, it does make the designs much cleaner and gives faces a much smoother appearance and texture. For the most part I've been able to avoid support material with most of my designs but the interlocking tabs are a losing battle as no matter which face I print on it results in half of the tabs being overhung. Nothing too bad though with my current design as the supporting is very minimal.

                                As for the leveling bed, this tends to be a common area of frustration across a large amount of people I've talked to. Either chasing level around the bed (like you mentioned) or the machine de-leveling itself over the course of runs, etc. Its definitely something to pay attention to. Luckily I haven't had very many problems with my MK3S as I have had in the past. Its pretty stable and level to itself with really the only adjustments needed being the base layer print height. My previous printer was cheap and awful in terms of leveling which gave me not only a lot of failures but a ton of horrible quality prints. I guess you get what you pay for.

                                I'm excited to see the next iteration of your self-resetting pin chutes. I still have all of your mechanism videos bookmarked from years ago that I like to look back on. Be sure to post any updates on how its going!
                                - Shaun R.
                                - Web Developer / Programmer

                                Comment

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